Gmerrill0516

Keep looking and as Fxfymn said drop the guy a note on e-bay just in case it goes south..There are lots of B-models around. Watch e-bay and craigs list for starters. Local auto trader type weekly for sale listings have old trucks once in a while too. I didn't note your location but there are typically guys around that have them for sale. Getting a good price is sometimes tough but..be patient

good luck!

That's just stupid. That's not a pole, its "the shaft". What a dope...Does he mean dollars?

I've seen it all now.

Looks good for the money so far. I'd be working a deal if I were you.

If memory serves tighten the inner nut until you get drag and when using a jamb nut you back off 1/3 turn then tighten the jamb nut and lock it in place. It's not so much a torque spec as a procedure. When using a single nut and cotter pin the process is 1/6th turn and then pin it or lock it in place. I'd get some old school wheel bearing grease and use that although I'm not aware of a problem with newer stuff in the older applications.

That sound right?

Greg

Aside from the rust and obvious problems, I'd look for a good drive train. Rebuilding an engine is costly and time consuming. Find one that starts runs and drives. Watch for trucks that smoke a lot particularly after they are warmed up. Tires and brakes are expensive too. If all the tires are shot you can figure on a big investment to get it road worthy. I'd find one running and driving. You can figure the balance of costs from there before you lay the cash down. Allow money for the unseen too...there are always problems you will miss.

Good luck

Greg

Thank you for that. Our memories can grow short and our attitudes come to expect all that we have rather than be grateful for it.

God bless our Veterans!

I'd love to hear that pull something heavy up a long hill (not too steep)...I bet it sounds cool!

A fine looking Mack. Welcome aboard.

I paid $3000 for mine but the original engine is gone. Runs and drives well so I figure I'm ok with that. I do need 3-4 tires to be comfortalbe with what I'm doing. Keeping the 1100R24's. I was offered $2500 for it. They don't bring much over scrap price unless they are really clean and shiney.

Just figured out what was looking funny with the radiator on this truck. It's a b-81 radiator with the 815 shutters fitted onto it. The bulldog should be in front of the cap not on top of it. That is the narrow skinny version out of the 81's, That was bugging me. The hood doesn't fit right and there is a gap between the shutters and the bumper that isn't supposed to be there.

What is the year and full serial number out of curiosity?

Greg

Don't know how I managed to miss this entire thread but I did. Wow. It would be nice to have the V8...I've got the E6-250 HP...It's a nice engine and runs great but having the right one between the rails would be something special. I had the card of a guy who had an 815 with the Allison down near perthamboy where mine came from. I didn't know it was there till I went to buy the one I have...I like the Quad but the Allisons were made for trucks rated for heavy heavy hauling.

Anyway keep the engine retire the truck! It's too darn rare to screw up! We never did get the SN on that beast did we???

If you have the wheel cylinders the best route is to send them out to be sleeved. It will cost you around $50.00 each and they are guaranteed for life. Try White Post Restoration in VA if you don't have a source.

If the wheel cylinders are missing give me a shout; I may have what you need.

Funny you mention that. I sent the four out to be rebuilt mostly to save time and ensure quality work. The post office (the institution with which I will never send packages again) did me a favor and lost one each of the front and rear cylinders. I can do one side and not the other. I need a 2" and I believe an 1 3/4" to finish the set. I don't recall that they were left/right handed so any should work unless you know otherwise.

Let me know! I need to buy some somewhere.

Thanks

Greg

It seams like they are always about twice as bad as you think at first. You notice things as you go. I think that if it runs and drives and the brakes are good you are way ahead of the game. Engines get expensive fast and are labor intensive to fix if they are in bad shape. The sheet metal is thick and can be welded up with new steel fairly easily. I wish my frame was better off but it is all salvageable as DigDug says. I'd go for it.

Is that just an 81? the air cleaner is what I think of as an 83 or 815 or 87 model...with the two elbows before it turns into the engine compartment. I think the 81's usually have the skinny tube instead. Maybe I read too much into it and it was a model year thing as well.

Keep the pictures coming. I'd hang that door on the wall as a souvenir and get one without rust to replace it. It would make a great decoration. Good luck. Mike

That's a great idea. I have two doors in better shape off of a parts truck I picked clean. I have to fix up where mirror brackets were welded on and bolted but the damage should be easily fixed. That door has no bottom...the hornets love to build a nest inside the hole where the lock should be every year. I hate those suckers.

I'll have to find a spot in the garage for that old door...that's art!

Ok great. That is a start. I'll study the situation this weekend and see what I can come up with for a plan. I will also look for the welding guidance in mack manual. It has to be on the internet somewhere.

Thanks for the help!

Greg

I'm curious about this topic. The 815sx has the double frame and is spread in areas and has some cracks out within 3-4 feet of the end at the 90 degree bend on top on one side. Dear old Dad says cracked frames = scrap. Can someone tell me the details on what is legal and not? Can I weld it up? Do I have to "hide" the work with welding grinding then body work or am I messing with fire here? Do I need frame specs from Mack to size the outer frame like done in this thread? What exactly are the bolts? The only shoulder bolts I know of are the socket head cap screw kind used in industrial equipment. They usually have a smaller thread and nut size compared to the bolt body diameter. I know those are not the right thing.

My plan had been to repair as needed to make it look right and be strong with proper welding etc. (the frame is heat treated too adding to the questions) Guidance is much appreciated as I really want to make the truck look right, work right and be safe and proper. I need to know now as its time to finalize the restoration plans.

Thanks

The fire engine is running. I just re-torqued the heads per instructions and am working to finish that up and get the hood in place. The brake booster is out for rebuild and I'm hunting down two wheel cylinders. Other than that I need to tighten up some wiring, make sure the fuel pump and filter can handle the job, and get some 9:00R20's on it. It's really close and I plan on having it in the Woburn parade next October if I can.

Unfortunatly, the Senate and the House would never put the positions on the line for that! Politics is now about perks and power, not about the counrtry or the people. Plus the Race Card would immediatly surface in the Media. Paul

Agreed! the next biggest issue is the lack of political will to do ANYTHING about the situation. The Dems want paid voters and the Republicans want cheap labor. It's all at the expense of America and the Americans. It is truly time for a third party and we need to push for a constitutional convention to regain STATE's rights and put the fed back where it belongs...UNDER the control of the people and not IN control of the people. Hear out Mark Levin some time. Read his book.

That is great. Nice to bring one home and it looks fantastic. What does it need? I'd make sure it starts, drives and the all important stops. There is a ton of good guys and great information on here so you are in the right place. Take more pictures and keep us posted.

Greg

Big patch on top of left fender...rusty but it would be miraculous if it were not.. Love the truck.

I'm open tell me what you need.

Thanks

I've got to make some room so I'm going to offer up the 707C engine I took for items I needed in the 707A. It is complete except for pistons. The heads appear to have been rebuilt some time in the past and all of it is useable. It was a good running motor from a B model. Any interest in any part give me a shout and we can figure something out. I can ship most stuff and if it comes to it I will figure out a way to ship all of it if need be. I'd prefer it be picked up.

I also have a r model air cleaner on e-bay if anybody is interested.

PM me for questions and info.

Don't want this at the scrap yard either.

Thanks

Greg

Hey that is a nice one. Please keep us posted on the tear down and rebuild. Enjoy it.

Greg

I can't imagine what difference it make having the edge one way or another. Any way you slice it, if you get wound up with that edge it's gonna peal you open. You can hit it and it can hit you in either orientation. I'd prefer it forward where it can fetch up against the goose neck and do something to stop the load in an emergency. More chains and binders and some straps for insurance are a good thing...I'd say 5 is the minimum and they need to be in tension in line with the truck to help start and stop the load with the trailer. I see guys with all sorts of criss cross stuff and I don't think any of it does anything except protect from cross winds...

It's dangerous stuff. Good to know about the regulations and the turbo concerns. I'd never heard either...thanks for the tips and God Bless!

Hey that is great! You took time off, went to Disney, got a good solid piece of ...well you know and now you've got another little helper on the way. It's a blessing. As for the "procedure", I recommend two good bags of frozen pees or frozen corn. The canned stuff is a bad idea. Don't let them thaw completely as the next time it comes out of the freezer it will be one big block of ice and that's no good. Even weight distribution will be a good thing. Go easy and follow doctors orders. And yah there is no really comfortable way to determine if the weapon is unloaded or not...You can try your luck of wait three months and take the test.

Congrats!