Gmerrill0516

A couple of questions have come up. The ENF-707A has a typical water pump with a grease cup on it. What am I supposed to use for grease in the pump? Where do you get it if it is something funky? Dad says they used to sell "water pump grease" in the day. New to me.

The other question comes from the drive shaft. It is supposed to be oiled with a heavy oil. I think I have the info in the book and it is 140 wt or something. The bigger question is what am I supposed to use to put the oil into the joint. The fitting is like a button and nothing like a grease fitting. Dad says that he might have the part that slides over the button as bulldozers used to have button type fittings which were low profile and wouldn't get torn off in the rocks and sticks. These were for grease and had a typical ball check like a zerk fitting but I don't think the ones on the Mack u-joints are like that. I recall a cylindrical little post sticking out of the middle of it. I'll grab a picture and post it tomorrow.

Any insight is welcomed.

Thanks

Greg

Still for sale. Let me know your needs.

Greg

Yah Baby! That's what I'm talkin about....sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

I'd get a set or two of fuel filters particularly if the tanks were so dirty you felt the need to flush them. That may have stirred enough other stuff up that your filters are loaded. Is there a screan in the tank that might be inspected? I'm not sure but I'd start with filters and screans and then the line. The booster pump could be plugged up too if it is in front of the filters. On a side note please don't speak violence against the Mrs. It's not right even if that thing explodes in flames.

Good luck

LOVE how those sound! It would be worth having just to hear that thing wind up through the gears...Just as soon as I hit the lottery...

Cool unit.

Love the truck. When I hit the powerball and or the megamillions I'll be getting plenty of space and some stuff to put in it. Until then I hope you get top dollar for your ride and wish you well.

Greg

Some nice pictures there. The lights are amazing. I thought that bear would eat the dog but I guess he must have had a full belly. It's hare to imagine how cold that must be. When we hit anything less than +15F it takes your breath away. It's got to be a whole different kind of life. I can't imagine -37!

Wow. Thanks for posting.

Greg

I'd call it home invasion and act accordingly. He would leave quickly (and oh by the way where is all the home owner's stuff) or he would die where he stands. Un believable. I bet all the libs want to sort this out all nice and polite...He better be bullet proof.

Excellent posting. This material is worthy of a magazine article. I suppose the rail guys have a periodical don't they? Anyway, good stuff and thank you for taking the time to put it in here for us to read.

Greg

My truck is red and needs to be rewired. I plan to paint it orange. Will that help?...you guys are a riot. On a serious note, locate disassemble and clean all the grounding straps and points on the truck. Many times when lights come on or go off when some other electrical event takes place is an indication of a bad ground. From there you need a good 12V test light and or meter and have to trace point by point until you find the broken wire, loose connection, bad fuse or dead relay...They either work or not...they can't seem to. You gotta test them.

Good luck and tell us more of what you have...it will help.

Greg

I would assume that the cost of a new unit vs. the cost of a refurbished truck are significantly different and given the 300 hours/year of use it would be best to leave as much cash in the bank and run reliable but older units. Is this accurate guys? I hope this is not a reflection on the quality of the new trucks Mack is putting out. Is it?

Thanks

Greg

The gas engine is the clincher. As my Dad likes to say that thing couldn't pull your hat off. Those all look goofey to me. The scale gets all messed up and the proportions look odd. Not my thing but it took some work to pull that off.

Now that's funny!

I'm sure if you can give some additional details someone here can tell you for sure. What is the donor truck model and do you know what is in it for an engine? I think a bunch of this stuff interchanged but I'm not the expert on such things just yet.

Greg

Thanks for the help. I'll have some conversations with Watts Mack at some point when the budget is less constrained. Maybe they can tell me. I've got the factory paperwork on the way too although if it's like the 49 L model the numbers don't mean anything anymore. I can always talk to the local guys as there are a bunch of the 80 series trucks in New England and I can take some pictures and ask some questions of part numbers if they might know.

I guess it's good I asked...the more I read here the more I learn that the DOT and local constabulary frown upon inferior equipment with a large money grab!

Thanks guys

Greg

I spent some more hours cutting stuff off and up. I have almost two of everything and none of it is good enough to just clean up and paint. I have a bunch of items that if I take half of each of the pair and weld them together I'll have a good piece. I see a lot of cutting and welding in my future. It's almost funny that the top of my original is solid and the bottom rotted off and the exact opposite for the other parts. No complaints though. I'm having a blast.

I hope to sand blast the parts up and start making good parts piece by piece. I'll prime them all up as they are completed and get them ready for finishing and paint. It is amazing how much extra stuff there is on the truck. I pulled a pile of stuff off that was added for one reason or another along the way. I ordered some sheet steel and some small angle irons to patch up the nose pieces. They are all either rotted or torn from abuse along the way. I have a good plan to make up some nice pieces as long as I don't run out of wire or welding gas.

I drained two gallons of oil out of the oil filter housing. My passenger saddle tank has a pretty good leak too. I've got to empty it (or wait it out). I figure if I get it empty and blast it up I can find the leak. I bet it wore through on the rear tank support as that is where it is dripping from. I'll have to purge it with CO2 and weld it up if it doesn't look too bad.

I'm thinking Hugger orange for the body work and black for the frame, radiator, tanks and battery boxes. It looks so far like the entire truck was orange and that is of course the other option...I'm not 100% on it yet...

Here it is.

Lots of cool there. Cab needs work but what 66 doesn't. Love it. Hope it goes to a good home.

Greg

This is what they look like. The cans are real tight in there mounting. The guy had told me they had to rotate the clamps that hold the can together to vet the ends with the bolts to clear the wheel and drum. Any way I'll pull a set and bring it with me to the parts place and hopefully a standard set up will replace this mess without any modifications.

Thanks

Greg

A place out of the weather is priceless. I keep tring to figure a way to make something but then I don't have a place to put it. I'll have to grab some space at Dad's house for lack of a better plan. The best I can do there is a tent or cover & tarp which doesn't do anything for condensation and mice...need a plan there.

That is awesome! (does kinda look like he is having his way with the mail box!) Love a good Squatch sighting!

Yes, that is what I need. When the time comes I'll bring a set up with me and I can lay it out and match up the correct offset adjuster to work with new cans. Mine work well but are rusty and for not too much money it will be right and beyond question.

Appreciate the information very much. Thanks

Greg

has the wrong slack adjuster, yes not dot approved

So is the cure to buy new brake cans with slack adjusters as a set? Does that fix it? I've never purchased this stuff before...(rookie)

Thanks

If memory serves, the force to pull one ton of weight on rail, on level track is 10 pounds. You have to overcome very little rolling friction on tracks. That is what makes the railroad so efficient. You still need to pull it up hill and keep it from rolling down too fast but it's not like pulling on rubber. Alison transmissions are good stuff just the same. Mack ran them in the 60's in the real big trucks with 100,000+ ratings. Lots of persistent grunt to make stuff move.

Can you get a picture I don't understand what you are getting at, unless you are saying someone tack welded the yolks to the threaded rod

Yah that's what I was attempting to write. The yoke is welded to the side of the rod rather than screwed onto the end of it. It's to accommodate the apparent offset between the can centerline and the adjuster centerline...looks funky and might make an inspector nervous.

Thanks