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Gmerrill0516

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Posts posted by Gmerrill0516

  1. Steel beams! That makes sense, I should have figured that out. Good to see an AMERICAN company making steel still. I think it's a matter of self defense that we do but the friggin EPA has done it's best to make it impossible to compete with imported steel. I guess the good news is that heavy stuff is expensive to move from across the pond.

    Really cool.

  2. That's an ENF-707A engine. Same as in the 1949 85LS I've been working with. Sweet but I didn't think they had the sack to pump that much water. Mine is rated 750GPM. The B-21 with the big Hall-Scott was 1250 GPM I believe but that is a monster of an engine...

    Good to see it.

    Greg

  3. Entertaining as always. What are those rolls used for? I'm used to seeing paper mill rolls but they are quite a bit different. I'm guessing steel rolling either as it is poured and formed or roll forming sheet steel but they look to heavy for that type of operation.

    Keep up the good work. I look forward to each week in review!

    Greg

  4. There are great books out for any model (and fire apparatus) that are great. The E's and L's had more letters that designated the relative capacity of the trucks. An LJ was a good sized truck but an LM was much bigger in capacity. Other letters designated heavy duty and the number of axels and so forth. An LJXSW would be a heavy duty LJ which would have a heavy frame and the cast radiator which was outside the hood and grill giving better heat dissipation capacity. The SW is six wheel or wheel locations ( a ten wheeled truck with three axels). A "T" would designate a tractor. A LTL if I recall was the light weight version of the L tractor with the big radiator and aluminum parts to make it lighter. COOL trucks!

    The B models were numbered 30, 40, 50 (rare), 60, 70 and 80 series trucks. Higher numbers meant heavier trucks. The letters applied here too. A "P" was a platform truck, a T a tractor. Even numbers are supposed to be gas engines like a B-80 would have a 707 gas engine and a B-81 would be a diesel (711). A B-83 was a Cummins engine. A B-813 was a turbocharged Mack diesel and A B-815 was a normally aspirated V8 diesel (864). I have a B-815SX which is the V8 truck, heavy duty double frame, the big cast radiator and six wheel. The B-87 is the monster and could be rated up over 100,000#.

    Some B models had L model cabs with B model fenders I believe the B-75's. The C models were made up of parts from other existing trucks and were short for city use. R models and variations there of are still on the road but in dwindling numbers. The U model has the offset cab and we have one big fan with a nice one in the works. There are lots of interesting things like camel back suspension, quadraplex transmissions, auxiliary transmissions, final drive ratios and all sorts of stuff to figure out and recognize by sight.

    I'm no expert and probably messed up something but it's neat to learn and see them and see what you can spot. Rest assured if its a Mack, somebody on here knows about it.

    • Like 1
  5. Great work. I'm scrounging parts for a 1934 John Deere GP with Dad at the moment. He's also running a 39 A, a 46 B and an earlier B whose year escapes me. The latter was my Grandfathers. My uncle has the other one and he lets it sit in the pasture collecting rust and probably seizing up tight. It's way better than making it run and drive. He won't let it go either. Ticks us off to no end...I hope to get it one way or another...pretty sure I'll out live him by a good bit...I'm sure the cousins don't want it either. Family.

    Anyway, nice work...

  6. Dad has an old creeper with the steel beveled wheels on the bent up funny axel/post things. That sucker would run skin on the bottom of my arms over if I didn't keep em up in the air. It gets your attention really fast let me tell you

    I wince when I see that thing in the old shop. I've got a nice red padded Craftsman one now that I got for $5 at a swap meet in VT. Best five bucks I ever spent.

  7. I just started looking for tires today as I gotta get moving on the 815. It has 1100R24 tires on it. I need to either get the steers capped with waste hauler lugs to replace two bad or mismatched tires in the back. Then I plan to get two new steers. The 1100r24's are a bit scarce so far and I'm wondering if I can find 1100r24.5's instead. Do the same wheels (spoke type hubs) fit 24's and 24.5's knowing that I can't interchange the rubber and need to use proper sets of wheel and tire?

    I'm on a budget and would appreciate some guidance.

    Thanks

    Those wheels look excellent!!! Nice work Vlad. Really nice work.

    • Like 1
  8. Arthur,

    You are in a good place as I'm confident the guys on here can figure out pretty nearly anything as long as you give them good information. From a maintenance perspective, I dabble in antique cars, tractors and trucks. I'm least experienced in trucks so I'll let the gang help you there. I am also the maintenance manager for a manufacturing facility with $350 million in annual sales and rising. We have wrestled our way to 85% operating efficiencies which is world class. With that said, you need to quickly figure out how to proceed. Take nothing for granted and question everything. I would first get with every mechanic and find out what he thinks he needs to be successful. Get them the tools they need to do the work. A well armed mechanic is a happy and productive guy. You also need to figure out who knows there stuff and who if anyone is dead wood. You will either need to train up the bad ones or get rid of them but treat them with respect and listen to and address as much of what they complain about as you can. Once you have a handle on the good and bad, you can make changes as needed to get enough staff to do the job. I'd find one good electrical guy and several nuts and bolts guys. I'd even offer to dig in with them to help you learn what they know and to gain their respect.

    You will need to establish a minimum acceptable condition for each vehicle. Go through each one and fix what needs attention. Grease, oil and filters are very important as are the safety items like brakes and tires. Put them all on a routine and track each vehicle in terms of parts, labor and down time when it isn't available to work. This data will tell you when you need to either commit to a major overhaul or dump it in favor of a newer vehicle. If you are spending as much as they are worth and they still don't run, you are throwing away your maintenance dollars. Remember, you need to find problems before they cause a break down so inspect everything and adjust frequencies as needed to stay ahead of the problems. This is not necessarily intuitive to guys so stress to look everything over and find possible problems in advance. This is preventive maintenance as opposed to reactive break down maintenance.

    Figure out what you need on the shelf for parts and either keep them handy or make your supplier stock them for you so you don't spend the money until you use the part. Consignment or vendor managed inventories save your time and can buy you better parts prices based on your commitment to the vendor. It's leverage you can use. If you really want to get organized get a maintenance software package (CMMS or computerized maintenance management systems). They are simple to run and you can get into one cheap. It will track all your spending and inventory and each piece for you. The reports they can generate are invaluable and can prove to the boss you know your stuff and when you say junk that truck you can tell him why. I can recommend a company that can set it up and show you how to do it. If you are not a computer guy, find a kid in the business and make him do it. Its not hard and is worth the investment. PM me if you want a guy to talk to and I am happy to give you pointers on anything.

    So, build a good team, track what you do and learn from it as you go. Get a subscription to Plant Engineering, and visit the AFE (Association for Facility Engineers). These are good maintenance sites and machines are machines when you break them down to their components. The technology and philosophy is all pretty much the same.

    Good luck and holler if you need help with management parts of it. There is more truck experience here with all the guys on BMT than you can shake a stick at!

    Greg

    • Like 1
  9. You know I never made that connection in my mind that those can blow out. I know tires are dangerous as the volume and pressure are significant. I think that every time I get near an 1100R24. The bags look little and mild. Thank you for the education on the matter. I will remember that every time I get under a truck or trailer from here on out. I'm praying for Mike as well. With God, all things are possible!

    Greg

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