Keffer inc

What's the best way to check for leaks in the intake system? Just take off the intake to the turbo and through a test gauge setup on it? I have the same problem

Nothing new will ever be as reliable as the older engines, just because of all the sensors and nothing is manually controlled anymore.

It's a 2011 CXU613 road tractor with the 445c motor.

Mine is doing the same thing. Bobtail in it goes from 8-16 psi boost with cruise control set on flat ground. It seems the vgt kicks in to build higher boost and cuts off near 16 or 20 psi, the leaks down to 5-8 psi and vgt kicks in again. I just bought the truck and can't pull a trailer yet as its not signed on with my company yet. Salt shaker, what did they find on your truck? Also, to pressure test the intake, do I just take off the air filter and install a test setup there and take it up to 20psi to find a leak? Or is there more to it?

In case anyone else is wondering. I found ClassicTruckInsurance.com and they are charging me $320 for 1 month temp bobtail and physical. 

Do the miles keep counting? If they do its likely the speedometer. If the miles also stopped counting, it maybe is the speed sensor on the back of the transmission, about where the drive shaft comes out. You should have a "electronic Malfunction" light with code 4-1 (?) if I'm not mistaken. 

maybe there was a plug that fell out behind the cluster? Thats where I would check first. Fuses or Breakers would be my second.

Hey everyone. I think this next weekend I'm buying a 2011 CXU613. They will supply me with 30 days if I provide insurance. What are some companies that will do this? Progressive does not.

I'm flying out to Sioux Falls, SD and driving 1,500 miles back to Moyock, NC. 

I dont have enough credit and/or history and my numbers are low because I had a low paying job before and couldnt make ends meet then, doing much better now, but need to wait to buy a new truck, used is my only option for now. maybe the next truck. 

How often do you need to clean the DPF? Both by regen and servicing by cleaning it off the truck? speaking about the 2007-2010 trucks?

I just read about the CXP613 trucks. I didnt really look at them because of lower horsepowe , (395HP)  but I read they do better than the older 427. They basicly have the newer dash and interior. But without all the DPF. Its a MP7 version of a 2006. What do you think about that?

Thanks for the inputs.

1. I think one issue I'm faced with is everyone who is selling an older (2006-older) knows what the're selling, and asking way too much.  example is a 2006 CHU613 (SFA) and it has 1,200,000 and they value that truck at $32,000.

2. Another problem that I'm faced with is here in the Norfolk, VA area, the Port Of Virginia may soon (in a couple years)  require a clean running truck to enter the ports.

3. Most carries require a truck to be within 10 or 15 years old or newer. So its a grim picture I think to keeo the CH as my primary truck. (Plan on keeping for a spare)

4. Agreed on M-Drive. I've heard only Mack dealers can replace the clutch, and that it will wear sooner since gears dont get floated. I plan on finding a 13 or 18 speed, but maybe will settle for a 10 spd if the truck has everything else I want (APU, high HP, ) 

I'm currently haul containers, but have given thought to try step deck and flats,  or haul gasoline for Kenan.  Someone I can lease onto.  My credit isn't very good, so buying a new truck wont happen for me right now. I thought of getting a truck from Lone Mountain but they dont have the kind of trucks that I like.

I like CHU613 and to a less extent, the CXU613 with the 70" sleepers.

I hear everyone singing praises about M drive and everyone likes them, but I'm afraid I'll end up with a problem somewhere and get stranded or it will get stuck in between gears like a Freightliner. Like I said, I hear they're great and no problems yet, but I just don't know. I need to drive one I guess and see. Are they direct drive for final ratio?

I can't keep the 99 clean. It's always leaking oil from the engine and rears. And I I want to long haul with my lease company, I need to upgrade to a newer truck. 

I;m looking at newer trucks to haul containers over highway. Most trucks in my price range  ($20,000-25,000)  do not have the DEF. As far as ownership costs go, is it more expensive (and more downtime) to own an older (2008-2010) DPF truck vs a newer truck that also uses DEF? I hear my friends that have KW trucks have to stop sometimes to re-gen and that it can take upward of 45 minutes. Its my understanding that a truck with DEF doesnt make you stop to re-gen?  Is there a higher cost in owning a truck prior to DEF? 

So basicly I need someone to school me on newer trucks, I still drive a 1999 CH613 and have no clue how to pick a newer truck as far as exhaust crap goes. I can spec the ratios and stuff like that, just need the help on emissions. 

do you have to pay federal exise tax if the truck was bought used from canada?

On 5/30/2016 at 10:47 PM, 41chevy said:

I You need to be very careful with the soldering rods. The rods melting point is 700 degrees and is extremely close to the pot metal / Mazak melting point.I use Muugy Weld rod it is made for pot metal repair with a melting point of 350 degrees. Strong, easy to blend in and chromes up nice. Did all the pot metal on my 1941 Chevy and a few pieces on my 1970 Hurst Chrysler 300.  Paul

http://muggyweld.com/pot-metal-repair

 

I never knew that existed! I knew about soldering copper plumbing pipes and all, but I watched that video of them repairing the head light bezel, and I'm impressed! 

Thanks everyone. I know i'm late to responding back but I had a buddy weld it with a fat bead so it doesnt happen again. Great Tips! I'll have to remember those.

10-4. I thought the temp would only be near 200 degrees but I had someone else trying to tell me that it would be hotter. The covers are still off so I can easily JB weld it without the worry of stuff falling. The hole is about a 1/16" hole. You think wrapping the turbo hose in pipe insulation from Home Depot?

This morning I took off the valve covers and risers to re-seal the gaskets (clean and apply RTV) and throw it all back together. As I was cleaning the forward valve cover, I saw i had a rubbed spot from the turbo oil supply hose (which has a frayed jacket). In that rub spot is a tiny pin hole. Mack wants $210 and will have to order it (Down time ) so my question is can it be JB welded (Epoxy)? They say the temps for the epoxy can get up to 500 degrees? Is that okay or might the motor get hotter? I'm waiting for a phone call from a friend who can weld aluminum (I think that they are) and will go with that first, 2nd epoxy if you guys agree that would work, and third, spend more money on a new one. Pics are on my facebook page.  Andrew Keffer or Keffer Transport

Glad to hear all went well. 

Before you spend that much money on a speedometer, check the speed sensor on the rear of the transmission. Check the wiring and plugs as well. If it is the sensor, you wont have cruise control either. if that still works, it likely is a speedometer. 

Oh ok. I never paid attention to the year difference. Also, which ones are better, the 08-11 or newer ones with DEF fluid? 

I'm looking at newer trucks on line, I wanted a 505 HP truck, but I see another truck that has 485 HP. Its only a 20 HP difference, but I was wondering if the difference is only in the computer and could be flashed to a 505 HP?

Update: I put the cap on and seems to be working now. I figured I needed to keep the cap off to add more coolant but looks like that`s what I did wrong. All the normal functions seem to be back. Thanks for the quick response.