Keffer inc

Nope, I'll add that to my list. Just take the condenser off with the lines on and flip that over and take off the CAC and clean front of the radiator and CAC while it's out?

You can check the code. With your cruise control switch OFF, press the set button and the electronic malfunction light will blink the code. So let's say it's code 4-1, the light will blink 4 times, pause a second or two, and blink 1 time, then go back to constant. If there is more than one code, press the bottom again, and the next code will blink. Keep doing that until you get back to the first blink code. Google Mack E7 codes for the code list 

Note, the fan does come on and try to cool it down, and it seems that if I run lower RPMs that the temp stays lower - longer than if I run past 1,400 rpm. 1,600 is usually where I shift.  Seems to me it's a pump but some insight is appreciated. 

Hey guys, I've been battling a new issue with my truck running hot up hills. The coolant will get up to 230⁰ and the oil also reaches 250⁰ and will derate. I think the problem has been around for a month and progressively getting worse, but the truck did get a new injector and cup (#5) and the running hot issue seems to be a lot worse. The dealer that did the injector said an injector or cup wouldn't cause an issue like that, and as I said, it's been going on for a little while, but is there a chance the problem is with the work they did?

I think it's probably gonna be something simpler like a slipping impeller inside the water pump or a sticking thermostat, maybe a dirty (outside) radiator, but is there anything else to check? Radiators won't just gum up inside for no reason right? I'm going to replace the water pump and thermostat this weekend. Let me know if there's something else I can check. Thanks.

1 minute ago, Keffer inc said:

 

I ran from Norfolk, VA to Ripley, WV twice since I got the truck back and I haven't had to add any coolant to it. I topped it off this morning after changing the filter but that's to be expected. Everything is looking good for now.

My truck uses a normal spin-on style filter, just a filter wrench is all you need on an MP8.

Looks like it was a faulty pressure cap on the over flow side. Seems to be holding coolant now.

I measured the radiator inlet and outlet with a lazer temp gun and it was a 25⁰ difference between them. I feel like that's kinda lower than it should be.

My engine shut off light doesn't come on but doing the same thing. Thinking something like an injector cup or EGR?

Also I notice the fuel level in the fuel filter is going down all the way out of sight. Fuel is leaking back some where.

Well I took the egr apart at the outlet side, its dry soot inside like it should be. I'm going to buy a cheap harbor freight temp lazer to check the radiator like you suggested, all signs kinda point to something injector related I think. The truck has an appointment with the dealer for tomorrow so tomorrow evening I'll probably have some idea what's going on and how much it will hurt to fix it. Any want to buy a 2011? I'll sell you one half price.

Mine would shake and rattle like a train at anything above 45mph, and if I wasn't floored. The 7th injector only has to do with the DPF cleaning and shouldn't hurt the MPG should it?

Ah hell, I just noticed air bubbles in my fuel filter globe. That's almost a guarantee it's an injector cup isn't it? 

That's what I'm leaning towards as well. I dont see any "steam" coming from my exhaust or any bad smell from the exhaust pipe. I have noticed my coolant temp is getting hotter, faster than usual.

Today I have any empty trailer and in 10 seconds of flooring it uphill, the temp goes 15⁰ hotter and the truck overall is running warmer than usual. Not overheating, but just hotter. The engine fan keeps coming on to.

It did cross my mind this could be simply a bad coolant water pump or thermostat?

Not very impressive. 5.5 to 6.0 MPG. Today empty container through the mountains, I'm only getting 6.2. 

I started using RSD brakes on my 2011 and I have brake squeal too. All speeds.

A few months ago, I'll change that too. You think that may be all that's wrong? Guess it would make sense.

The first set of injectors were bad, they put a third set of injectors in and the truck ran like it should. It was a $21,000 bill. Not buying Mack anymore.

Hey guys, I have a 2011 Mack CXU613 with a 455 hp MP8 motor. The truck started pushing coolant out of the reservoir tank when climbing up mountains and long hills. The problem seems to be getting worse.

I did replace the coolant tank with one of Ebay some time ago, and its maybe possible that I have a higher percentage of water than coolant so that may be boiling over? I plan on draining the coolant and replacing with fresh coolant to see if that's my issue, but else might it be if it's not simply that? What are some test I can do on my own? Thanks.

is this the same as a 1999 Mack CH with the older style dash? mine is fried too.

The No Power when Key On was a fuse F7 was blown any causing that problem. Still diagnosis the codes though. I checked the wiring plugs, all are clean, cleaned the battery terminals and checked the 30amp that powers the DEF, it's good. Anyone know what to check next and how to?

on my way home last night, I got codes for my DEF pump or injector.

Codes as follow:

Spn 5394 fmi 5 (current below normal or open circuit /possible cause is DEF Doser or Doser pump assembly)

Spn 5246 fmI 15. (Data valid but above normal values / no possible causes)

So this morning I tried to keep coming home and the truck won't crank. (Key in on position, no gauges key in start, the gauges come on but no crank and then go out two seconds later). Is there something I can do to at least move the truck? 

My cell is 757-284-5306 thanks, andrew

I didn't read all the replies so I may be repeating someone. My old CH had a "not charging" issue once and it took me forever to figure it out. I was a ground breaker on the fire wall. If I remember right it has two ground cables coming out of it and it's close to the starter solenoid. The cheap way to see if that's bad is to use a jumper wire between those two grounds and if your gauge is back up to 14 volt, that's what's bad. Hope that fixes all.

Yep, I'm convinced my 1999 CH613 is more reliable. Less mpg but still higher profits.

Check your batteries,  there are two cables, one just for the starter and the smaller one for everything else. Follow that larger cable and make sure all connections are tight. Otherwise I don't know. 

Perhaps try jumping the starter to see if it works. Mack doesn't have very good quality anymore.