Keffer inc

Wrong size wire or terminal used when fixing it?

I've got 3571, FMI 14, it says "aftertreatment hydrocarbon doser fuel preasure too high" and possible causes are "fuel shut off valve is leaking" 

I had a nasty fuel filter just days ago, look like I had some slimy crap in my fuel. The truck seems hard to start too, almost like a it's loosing prime, the longer it sits, the longer it turns over. Not seeing any fuel leaking though? Where to look?

Yeah, I can drive fine without it. But I want a Double Din radio anyways for hands free phone use (no headset crap) and all the features that it can come with. That camera could save me one day though, or in tight backing/parking spots, it can be handy then as well. I just need to figure how to wire that feature.

I've been pondering the possibility of buying a double din radio / DVD / CD / NAV and buying one that has two AV in-puts and a rear backup camera. I would like it to show me the right side of the truck when I turn on the right turn signal. Is there a way to do this on a 2011 Mack CXU613? I would need a constant power from the right signal hook up. What wire and where would I grab it from? Thanks

10-4, I bought something from Peek. forget the name but it had SCA which my understanding is the same as DCA? I have plain water in the truck now making sure there are no leaks. When it comes back down to ambient temp, I'll load up with that pink stuff.

Probably could buy the pigtail from the dealer?

I had to drain the antifreeze to make a small, but major pain to get to, leak at the waterhousing. I'm wondering if regular prestone is ok to use?

glad you got it fixed!

No need now, what I was able to remove that square gasket by loosening the two bolts holding the lower round O ring and taking off all the cover bolts except for the two that were in question, which I loosened them out as far as I could against the balancer. It gave me just enough to clean up the rust and grime from it leaking for so long. I'm about to re-install it all but my next question is what kind of anti-freeze can I use? I like Prestone (green/yellow) and have used it on my older CH613 with no issue. Is this stuff ok with the newer trucks too, with the EGR cooler and such? I know Ford 6.0 trucks cant touch the stuff without plugging up. If you're wondering, it had red antifreeze. Thanks

Hello, I removed the water pump, and all that was already in the way. I was trying to replace the square rubber gasket that connects the oil cooler to the water pump housing. I looks like there are two bolts that are being blocked from the harmonic balancer. Looks to me as if I need to take off the fan, fan clutch, and lift all that out of the way to unbolt the balancer just to get those two bolts out? Does anyone know of an easier way? 

The truck will not leak coolant if it is warm for about two hours after running, then it slowly starts, and slowly gets bigger until it almost is a steady drip. I can feel the gasket with my fingers and was thinking about using gasket maker and smearing it in with my fingers and throw it back together with my fingers crossed? Is it worth a chance to take to try this and possibly dodge a bullet?

I currently don't have my truck signed on with a company but I have applied to Oakley Trucking to run end dump trailers doing Dry Bulk. The truck will be looked at very closely and I don't want to send it to a shop during orientation.

2011 Mack CXU613 MP8 455hp

Talking about for the sleeper lights? I know my 1999 ch613 doesn't, so yours only a year newer probably won't.

I have the shore power on my 2011 Mack and just installed a 3000 watt inverter. I was wondering if I can make a double male cord that would plug in to both units so I can always have power on the recepticles? I plan on using only one at a time.

It wasn't as bad as I predicted. I took both splash guards off the passenger side and drove the truck up onto some ramps. Once there I took off the flex pipe from the 7th injector back to the 2nd flex pipe, this allowed me access to the third nut.

The truck is a 2011 Mack CXU613 with the 455 MP8 motor. I drove it up on some wooden ramps to help my fat self get under it too. Work starts later tomorrow morning.

Hey guys, my starter went out on my new truck and it looks like a massive pain to get the old one off. The broken starter is whining like it's spinning the teeth to start the truck, but the thing that pushes the teeth to the flywheel isn't working. 

So I'm wondering what's the best way to get the three nuts off? The bottom one and one close to the frame look accessible, but the one top, beside the block, looks impossible. I figured I may access it if I remove both splash guards, the exhaust flex pipe and maybe the egr u shape pipe? What would you experts do? 

I can't find an exact match, but spn 98 had something to do with engine oil leave or preasure? All that normal?

how was your truck running before you did injectors? I'm thinking mine may be bad now instead of a boost issue. No matter what gear or loaded/unloaded, about 1,500 RPM is when it starts to shake and loose power. Feels like a misfire,

Mack "fixed" my truck but I still have only 5 MPG and low power, truck starves for air near 1600 rpm. Starts skipping and missing until I let off the gas and mash it again. 28 psi is the highest boost gets. 

Getting a code in the VECU. MID 144 PSID 40 FMI 4? anyone know what it means? My truck is having boost problems and I'm hoping this will tell me whats going on since the dealer didnt fix my troubles the first time.

Shut down over ride is only useful if your truck has an idle shut down timer I think. ?

Does your truck run good until 1400 rpm and then act dumb? Mine does thta. The dealer said I have an exhaust manifold leak (powers the turbo) and also had a broken stud and broke O-ring on the intake side. They're fixing it now so well see the price damage then I guess. I think I'm looking at $1,500 for the repairs.

I tried to look it up on my chart but that code got skipped. Let us know if you find out.

Dealer has the truck now. They found a leak on the exhaust manifold and a broke stud and o-ring on the intake manifold. Hopefully not too expensive. They said 9 hours and and $400 to $500 parts. Hope this is helpful to someone else along the way.

Probably needs to go to the dealer for programming.

Yep, check engine light is on. I have code 1127 with fml 10, 14, and 18. The 10 I think I set off by stomping on the gas and then off. Turbo and vgt sound functional. Hoping it was a coupling boot on yours?