Keffer inc

I know what you mean, I looked at some laptops, but I'm not looking to keep this truck much longer. I always liked Mack until I bought this "modern" truck. I think I'm gonna buy a Freightliner glider with a 60s Detroit next.

7 hours ago, david wild said:

Bend over and assume the position.

I was afraid of that. Haha. Already spent 8 grand on the motor this quarter, what's another 5. They better enjoy it, cause this is my last Mack.

I know what you mean. I may be buying a new glider Freightliner next year, but if I dont go that route, I think I'm going to learn HVAC and use this current truck as a spare income.

Welp, you were right. I broke off the bottom egr bolt. I put the truck back together with three bolts and copper exhaust sealant and that didn't work at all. So I ran the truck a couple weeks trying to recoup some money first but its going to the dealer. I'm not gonna break anyone bolts myself. Especially the ones going into the head.

So I broke a bolt off the manifold bolt that holds the egr onto the manifold. I couldn't get it out so I'm letting the dealership handle the replacement because I think the actual bolts holding it to the cylinder head would likely break off too. What do you guys think? They also claim that the three piece manifold has to be replaced together because the new single piece probably won't fit into the other existing pieces. The third one (last- egr mount) manifold is the one that's screwed up. $3,600 is the quote for the exhaust manifold to the completely replaced.

And it would probably be a good idea to replace it instead of sealing it up? Oil temp does see 240⁰ climbing mountains. My truck is a 2011 so I would guess it should be the newer style already?

Oh joy... is this something someone with basic skills and hand tool can handle in the driveway? I think I have what I need to get it off. Just scared because of how involved it is. 

At the risk of sounding dumb, does the oil filter housing have coolant running through it? I seems to have coolant dripping from the back side of the housing but it's hard to see exactly where. It's coming down beside the front oil filter. 

That's the top. They said the inside of the motor looks good with no large peices of rust. So I think this fix will last for a little while.

Tomorrow I'm bringing a loaded trailer to hookup with a tech riding shoot gun to watch live data while the truck is in action. Everything they looked at passes so hopefully this will reveal something. 

Gonna name the truck "Shop Queen" in the shop 4 out of 5 weeks.

Truck is at the dealer. Today they ran regular diagnostics to figure why it's over heating. They said they cant find anything wrong and want to check the water pump and make sure it has the correct tolerance and not slipping. I think its wasting time but I told them they could check it. The only other guess is that the radiator is plugged up so they will replace that I guess if the pump good to them. Anyone else have any other guess or anything maybe they should look into?

The truck has a date with the dealer on Friday. Three weeks out of the month..  Its turning into a "shop queen". Sucks too, I wanted to quit my job and start with Mercer but can't do that if my truck isn't right and can't get a head ache rack because of all the expenses. 

If it is caused by work they did, do dealers usually warranty their work and fix it for free? Hopefully I'm not paying twice for the same part.

Forward tube? Would that be exhaust inlet or outlet? I checked the outlet and it was dry and black soot as usual with no sign of dried coolant. But that was only checked on outlet.

I too think it's a cup, it's just too coincidence that they just did an injector and the fact too that they said they had a hard time getting the old cup out that they needed to cut it out. Hope they didn't cut too much out that it needs a new head.

37 minutes ago, fjh said:

YUP Oh ya it can ! only 16 Psi in the rad 30 plus on the other side!

Shouldn't coolant leak back while the truck is not running?

EGR looks normal, no moisture. 

If it was a failed EGR cooler, coolant should be in the outlet pipe right? Can't really go the other way can it? Meaning exhaust is going into the coolant system?

I think I see air bubbles coming up inside me coolant tank. I replaced that and it's clear where you can see inside of it and there's bubble coming up. If I choke the hose that supplies coolant to the system, the bubbles stop, so it's not just engine vibration tricking me I don't think. Bad to the dealer ship. This truck is a shop queen this month. Hopefully it's something they did wrong when it was there for an injector 1.5 weeks ago. Probably a injector cup? It definitely got worse since I got it back from them.

10 hours ago, mrgumby said:

I’ve seen radiator hoses collapse inside  that will drive you crazy also. With no external signs at all.   Have you check the hoses inside top and bottom 

Not yet. Brake hoses on my pickup did that so I can understand that. I'll check that. 

Doing my first load since I replaced the water pump, thermostat, cleaner the radiator fins, changed the coolant filter, and the truck is running 210-215 with a 20 foot container with a 1 ton load on flat ground. It seems to have gotten worse. I noticed if I'm at a traffic light, it's coolant down to 200 when we get going and climbs back to 210 in a minute or two. Think it's possible it's an EGR blockage? I'm assuming these trucks have oil coolers, but not sure where they are located? 

18 hours ago, OldRedMack said:

On loaders and such we have "scrubbed" the coolant system with cascade dishwasher soap and had pretty good results.  But that is also heavy duty steel radiators, dont know if that would work in this application. 

I was considering trying that, but with coolant running in tiny hoses to DPF And DEF equipment, I'm scared the powder may jam up flow and create more issues?

8 hours ago, 880joe said:

Do you ever miss the older truck you had before this one?

Damn sure do. It was cosmically nasty (interior) from the last owner, but pretty reliable. Rears needed to be reman so I parted ways with it. Should have just bought a cut off for it.

Yep, I thought about the radiator being plugged up if that 1/8 hole brass fitting was clogged. I'm changing everything else and hoping for the best. But if it still runs hot, then I'll try a new radiator or get it cleaned by a radiator shop if that's possible.

Well guys, looks like I may have found the issue, and I found by a freak accident. I broke a quick connect fitting off while trying to use several extensions to remove the fan belt (bad place for it) and broke the plastic tab off inside the hose. The hose I think goes to the DEF doser or the return from it. Anyways, coolant was only coming from the doser and not from the engine side and I thought maybe it's a check valve, but the brass fittings for the connector is plugged solid. Do you think this could be reason enough for running warm on flat ground and overheating 3/4 ro the top of the mountains?

As far as the radiator goes, I took the CAC off (heavy bastard too, thanks for that warning ) and it's pretty clean, few bugs but looks normal. I'll wash it since I've done the work but I'm changing the pump and thermostat now anyways because I'm halfway apart now. 

Main thought is all this is because of the brass being plugged up?

The condenser looks fine, not really any dirty in the fins, but I guess it's first to see the rain. As far as my air filter, it's most likely past point needing to be replaced. I'll try just those two things and see what happens next week rather than throwing parts at it. Today I took manual control of my fan, it does cool better with it running, at idle I put my hand in front of the condenser and it's not pulling a lot of air, but I'm not sure what would be concerned normal either. Should it be sucking my hand off? I'm buying a new air filter and taking the radiator, cac, and condenser off for through cleaning tomorrow.