hicrop10

Tks Bob and everyone else.The worse part is this just sitting around doing nothing drives me nuts.Have already called my union and waiting for the call back on my retirement.Tks again everyone.

I have been having chest pains for the last 6-8 weeks,well it all came together this past Monday.I left the house around 5:15 for work with some chest pains as I drove to work it was getting worse.Got off the interstate and headed for the hospital,they did end up telling me I did have a heart attack.So now I’m in the mood of changing my bad diet and just doing stupid shit.I throught it all started when I was moving around some 1200x24’s tires and wheels,now that not bad if your 30 something but at 67 not the best thing to be doing. Point I’m trying to make here to think before you act.

I am working on a 1979 r model.I believe I need a tp3.

h67st,that’s what it known as.Found it on Fleet Pride site local store has 2 will be there Monday morning.Tks

What would you call this.It’s the valve that send the air back to the trailer to release the brakes. It’s located center of cab in the back.

14 hours ago, 1961H67 said:

I’ll get it for you Monday when I get back to my shop.

Tks

What is the code?

I did find one but I was thinking just what both of you have said.The price was a little high $400,I would pay that if I was sure it to be the book I want.I do have a book for my b87 that I picked up from Allvintage books.

I am looking for a parts book for my 79 r686st tractor, any help would be much appreciated.I have a call in at the Mack Museum.

I have a 79 r model been looking for the beige paint and the engine paint

Looking for the paint code for my 79 r model engine?

The reason I am asking is I have to replace the fuel supply pump on the side of the injection pump.The two bottom stud are totally in the blind. I will take a picture of it in the morning.

If I remove the injection pump to install a new fuel supply pump does the motor have to be retimed

Going to replace the alternator since it does show a slight drain.I’m thinking taking the wires off the volt meter and trace it back to the source of power like some one else suggested.Hopefully after replacing the alternator this will fix it.

Joey,I checked the solenoid under the glove box.It does have power to it on one post with key off like it should,key on both sides have power.Then I took the wires off the alternator volt meter still shows a reading,Then tried the jumper cable from cab to frame nothing.

No updates,I moved some trailers today and found my fuel supply pump had a cracked housing,so my electric problem is on the back burner.Going to try to do some checking tomorrow.

With the key off there should be no power going through it?

There is a starter solenoid under the glove box.

No on the click from the dash.

That’s what I was thinking to disconnect the wires from the alternator,will do this tomorrow,will let you know what I come up with.Tks for the help.

Joey,no there has not had any electrical work.I will check the switch you are talking about tomorrow.With the key off should there be any power coming out of the switch?My electric guy tells me that the alternator has a slight draw on it.He is going to replace it on Monday.Any other throughts?

My r model volt meter has a reading with the with the key switch either on or off, is this normal?Or should I be looking for a short?

Mine has a reading with the key switch off,any ideas on where I should start looking for the draw?