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15 hours ago, fuzzy buzzard said:

First things first - are you trying to save the adapter? Methods vary based on the desired results.

I'm going to try to save it, I'd rather not buy a new one if I don't have to.

In the process of tearing down my rig, I found the front intake adapter from NPT to NH thread is rusted on extremely tight, as was expected.  Looking for any suggestions to help break it loose, short of cutting it off. 

A little progress from the other day, didn't get too crazy because of our recent heat wave here in southcentral PA.  Removed the cab doors, front warning lights and turn signals, bumper, and the under dash panels to remove some extra wiring from over the years.  Also have the front fenders off, and most of the cab trim.

Gotcha, I'll give it another go.  Thanks

Inner part, as in inside the door?

Looking for any tips/help on removing the "inside" door handle and window crank on my '63 C85 fire engine.  I searched through the forums here, and pulled up the "escutcheon" as described in other threads here, but couldn't seem to see any pin to take out to remove the handles.  

Bump/update: I've searched extensively online for rebuild kits or parts breakdowns on these style valves, and have come up empty, as the only style I can find are for swing-out valves.  It appears to me that the seats on these valves are brass?  Are there any special tricks to getting them out? They are all tight in the valve bodies, and I don't want to damage anything trying to get them out.

With some nicer weather, in between rainy days, I've been able to dive back into this rig.  I've removed the 1" discharge valves from the pump (booster lines and pump to tank), and found that 1 is an akron, but I am not finding any manufacturer name or number for the other two, which look like this:

Looking for a little insight on these discharge valves for the booster lines off my engine.  I've removed most of the valves from the pump to rebuild them, and can't seem to figure out how to further disassemble these.

It's been a while since I've posted any updates, because I hadn't really had time to work on the rig due to my work schedule.  I did take it to the York muster in the end of September, this year featuring Mack apparatus.  I was fortunate in mid-September to start a new career as a paid firefighter, which means a better schedule and should mean more time to work on the rig.  I'm attempting to make the rear lights work again, and am pretty sure that when I painted the body, I covered the grounding points for the lights; I am getting power to the lights, just none of them actually light up.  Does anybody know whether the lights ground to the body through the housings, or through the mounting bolts?

Alrighty, back to posting updates for this old war wagon.  My time to work on it has been limited due to the kids and overtime at work, but I have the painting almost done on the rear body, and got barely used tires for the back wheels from my parent's church, who had bought new tires for their bus and then decided to scrap it.  I slapped things together quick to get me to the Pump Primer's muster and back.  I didn't attempt to draft this year, but had a neighboring rig flow water through the pump for about an hour.  The night before the muster, I was planning on going drafting, but found the primer to be inoperable again, took it apart, tested the motor and solenoid which were both fine, cleaned up the gears and body of the primer itself and put it all back together, all for it to still not work.  There is no power getting to the primer switch, but even bypassing that with power the primer will not turn.  An air primer is looking better and better every day!  I've also been finding that since I painted the body, the rear lights (tail/brake lights, turn signals) don't want to work anymore; I'm figuring because of the new paint, they aren't making contact for grounding.  

A few shots from this year's muster.  I pretty much only got pics of my favorite rigs and new ones that caught my eye, but unfortunately missed the aerialscopes from Waynesboro and Lancaster.  It was a beautiful day for a muster, and there were 115 rigs pre-registered, not sure if all of them showed up or not.  

Also keep in mind, Boston had another aerial failure a little while back that was found to be caused by improper maintenance and "band-aid" type fixes to the hydraulic controls.  Here they have a 13 year old reserve rig, and seeing there is a history of improper maintenance on other rigs- I would bet that has something to do with it.  To echo Red Horse's comment, the Commissioner came up through the ranks, and over the last few years of seeing him in the news during and after incidents, I have a lot of respect for him as a guy who seems to keep the best interests of his men in mind- hopefully they are able to get their maintenance issues resolved soon!

@MACKTRUCKS4 check your private messages

Looks good!  What were they stripped with?

Net Neutrality wasn't a thing until 2015, how did we possibly use the internet in the years before that?  I'm still not quite sure how I feel about the whole issue, on one hand, I like that this will now be one less thing that the Government can micromanage, but I'm also afraid that the ISP's will try to screw their customers.  Although in our free market, consumers have the right to shop around for the best bang for their buck.  I don't see where so many people are getting the "sky is falling" mentality, but I do agree that there is potential for abuse of the system.

47 minutes ago, Lmackattack said:

It likely moves along well because it has no emission crap bolted to it. ?? I don't think military or emergency trucks come with EPA crap on them?

 

Fire apparatus are not exempt from emissions rules, unfortunately.

On 11/8/2017 at 11:01 PM, cstaples said:

I feel another strong argument for "real" motors in fire apparatus is brake HP. We have three midsize engines ie: 8.3, ISL9, and that god forsaken KME Maxxforce thing. Being completely unimpressed with any of their ability to hold back, especially at low RPM, we now are buying larger displacement motors with real Jacobs compression brakes. We have been running the DD13 @ 515hp in our #42,000 engine flawlessly for a little over a year. It stops consistently without using the brakes. We will take delivery of our 2nd DD13 in a couple months.

 

I agree FWD lots of smoke and mirrors, but honestly, no one out there currently is even in the same ballpark as the big "P". Our rig is designed by us top to bottom. Even when their engineers said "why" we answered "it's what WE need to operate"!!!

 

I have to agree, Pierce is killing the rest of the apparatus manufacturers, at least here in southcentral PA.  Most of that is due to an excellent salesman and service shop, who are willing to work with and accommodate the customers.  I actually disliked Pierce until my former department bought one.  There are many departments in this area who have been heavily leaning towards Seagrave, but the salesman wouldn't even talk to them.  Same with Sutphen, who basically wants customers to pick a rig out of a book of pre-designed specs.  That Keene rig looks great, I have in-laws (wife's grandparents) who live in Keene, and we visit usually at least once a year.  I might have to finally stop in at the firehouse one of these days!

On 11/13/2017 at 11:33 AM, General Ike said:

Never saw this rig the entire time I was in Gettysburg.  We ran out that way first or second due with several of our rigs and never saw anything other than some old green B models.  I was always curious about the old rigs there, but was discouraged by some of the old timers at the FD from "stopping in" to say hello.  Never asked why, just assumed visitors weren't appreciated.

I bought some parts from him for my rig, he is very knowledgeable/helpful, but definitely doesn't like people being on his property very long!  I drove by there a week or 2 ago and he had the bay door up and this rig was sitting inside, it still looks decent from the road!

On 6/11/2017 at 8:29 AM, fxfymn said:

Albert,

Install an electric pump and either block off the hole for the mechanical pump with a flat plate or leave it on and just route the fuel lines around it.

Here is the one I used recently to replace a failed electric pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIQ5DG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This pump has isolated electrical connections so it can be used on a positive ground system without any issues.

Just make sure the pump is wired through the ignition switch so it will not remain on when the engine is off. This makes sure it will not fill the crankcase with fuel if the carb needle valve fails and it is a safety feature if the engine catches fire.

That's the same pump I put on mine, works perfect!