ff6cav

Here's the thread I referenced earlier:

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/38114-electric-fuel-pump/

I'm on my phone and can't "quote" posts right for some reason, but here goes- I had found a thread on here discussing this exact thing where that pump was listed as a viable option, but can't find it at the moment to link to it. As far as the fuel lines, that's correct, my plan is to replace the existing rubber hoses, more as a precaution than anything else, and I'm planning on wiring it with a relay so it is only on when the ignition is on. The pump arrived yesterday, so I'm hoping to get it installed sometime next week and will post the results when I do

With warmer weather hopefully arriving before too long, and anticipating being able to actively work on the rig again, I've decided to convert to an electric fuel pump. Yesterday while checking on the rig, I discovered that the mechanical pump is now leaking both gas and oil, and after doing some research, a conversion seems to be a good way to go. After checking the forums here, I ordered a Carter P4070 on Amazon for $62 (free shipping), and will post pictures once I get it installed; I also plan to replace the fuel lines with ethanol-resistant hose. In the meantime, can any of you offer any helpful hints or things I should look out for when making the switch?

Is this your truck?

It is!

It's been a while since I've been able to do any work on the rig (holidays and whatnot), but I'm hoping to get into it some more this winter. The first, and hopefully simplest, is getting the speedometer rebuilt, as it "bounces" 5-10 mph on either side of the actual speed while going down the road. I also want to remove the rear body panel (under the hosebed) to nip some surface rust in the bud before it develops any further- any thoughts/suggestions on removing that panel? I took a quick look at it and can't seem to find how to get it apart.

Wow.....Guy that owns that Oaklyn Scope lives near me.....He traveled a long ways. Good for him.

I got to talk to him after the services; it's a gorgeous rig!

Should have gotten a pic of it in front of the 72nd NYI (Second Fire Zouaves) Momunent!!!

We drove right by it to get to the PA Monument, but it's too far off the road to get a good pic with my phone- next spring we're going to go out and get some better pics with my wife's camera

Where are you located? We're just north of Philly. I will have to look back in my records, but the place has a shop in Wilmington, De which is where they had me drop it off- they had their guys transport it to Bmore and back on their daily parts run at no cost to me. I'll look it up for you.

I'm just north of Gettysburg

Sounds like it may be at the end of it's life. You may have to break down and send it out for a rebuild. There's a fantastic clutch shop in Baltimore if you are anywhere near there. They rebuilt and balanced the Lipe-Brown clutch for my FWD, ran me $400 I think.

Thanks for the tip, do you happen to remember the name of that clutch shop? I'm about an hour and 20 mins north of Bmore, so that's a feasible option

Quick update: I've tried the baby powder idea, dumping it in the top opening with the clutch disengaged, and it doesn't seem to have done anything to help. I feel that the baby powder isn't getting to the actual clutch face; I may try more brake cleaner when I get a chance. I've pretty well adapted my driving to compensate for the slippage, but it gets pretty slow on long upward grades.

I'm new to this site and learning to navigate. I'd like to know about the electrical charging system. The amp meter isnt reading and both batteries, though new are dead. And the maintenance of vital components.

As far as electrical, I would imagine it's a positive ground system, maybe the batteries are hooked up backwards?

Looks like you are having fun. I'm wondering what 707 that is with the intake and exhaust manifolds on opposite sides of the head?

enjoy it!

Greg

This has the 707C

Another little update- the fuel pump and oil filter are back on, after a lot of swearing and frustration(mostly at the fuel pump)! I also ended up breaking the arm of the tank to pump valve when trying to loosen it, so for now I think I will put it back on and keep it as-is, as I have no plans on filling the tank any time soon.

If there are extra wooden ladders I am interested. I'm cheap though. Mike

I'm in the same boat! The need for equipment outweighs the money to buy it

A couple updates- removed the pump panel cover to get to the tank to pump valve, which was stuck. Removed the valve, and have it soaking to see if I can break it loose. Also removed the fuel pump and oil filter canister to fix the oil leak, and cleaned up and painted them while I have them off.

Yup, spray away. Spray from the bottom also.

Try to find a rubber hose that will fit the plastic stray that comes with the brake clean which will make it easier to direct the spray around while keeping the can upright.

Great, thanks! I'm working all weekend, but will give it a shot on tuesday

I just want to confirm before I try the brake cleaner- would the circled area here be the best place to spray it in?

...But, you could try the obvious since the adage of "nothing to lose by trying" applies here...

If it comes down to a re-build I would seriously consider pulling the engine in lieu of removing the tranny so you can replace all of the oil sealing gaskets and properly clean and paint it. It will take a serious lift, so you may want to get a shop to do it if you don't have a big hoist or fork truck.

Good luck.

hey fx, I'm with you on the brake cleaner try. I have gotten grease on the rotors (and pads as a result) from lubing the ball joints and if it worked for brake pads maybe if the clutch is made from a similar material what have you got to lose?

That's pretty much my theory right now- might as well try brake cleaner, the worst that can happen is that it doesn't do anything or does something bad to the clutch, which would need rebuilt either way. If it doesn't work, I'm going to just keep everything together to get me to 1 or 2 more musters this year, and do the heavy work over the winter. Thanks for the advice and input so far!

After investigating things a little more today, I think I've narrowed down the problem. There appears to be oil leaking from behind the fuel pump, where it connects to the side of the engine, which extends back along the side and underside of the engine and transmission. The closer to the fuel pump you get, the more fresh and thick the oil is. The rig had sat without being run for about a year before I bought it, so my best guess (and based on you guys' suggestions) is that the gasket between the fuel pump and engine went bad, and the more I drove it, the more oil pushed out and began getting into the clutch, eventually causing the slippage. My question now is, how should I go about trying to clean the oil off the parts in the clutch? Thoughts/suggestions?

Looks like a lot of oil. None on the disk is there?

I haven't gotten to delve into it that far quite yet, but that's going to be the first thing I check once I can

Here's a pic I took of the back side of the clutch.

Any thoughts on where I should start with attempting an adjustment? I'm still somewhat lost in trying to understand the manual