HeyCharger

I have on old Chrysler Charger which I don't start for a couple of months. When I did start it, I used to crank the engine over and over and over just to get the mechanical fuel pump to get fuel to the triple SU carbs in order to be able to start the engine. Not good for the old starter motor or battery.

So, I installed an electric fuel pump in line with it's own switch.

Now, before I start, I just prime the fuel for a fuel seconds with the electric fuel pump and then start the engine normally. Works very well.

My B61 is in a very similar situation. ie I have to pump the primer for ages to get the air out before attempting a start. And so I've been thinking for awhile about doing a similar installation on the old girl.

Just use the electric primer to get the fuel pressure up and bleed the system and then push that air start button to hear one of the greatest sounds around.

Has anyone done this on a truck?

Regards, Rod.

Hi Barry,

This is what Google sent back to me;

Hello,

Thank you for your report.

I've investigated your report and found that your MX records aren't

configured properly with Google's server information.

To fix this issue, please modify your MX records as follows:

- 'ASPMX.L.GOOGLE.COM.' with a priority value of 1

- 'ALT1.ASPMX.L.GOOGLE.COM.' with a priority value of 5

- 'ALT2.ASPMX.L.GOOGLE.COM.' with a priority value of 5

- 'ASPMX2.GOOGLEMAIL.COM.' with a priority value of 10

- 'ASPMX3.GOOGLEMAIL.COM.' with a priority value of 10

Once you've modified your MX records, it may take up to 48 hours for your

records to update. If you continue to experience difficulties, I recommend

contacting your domain host for assistance with your MX records.

Sincerely,

The Google Team

I believe that you as administrator can change these.

Hope it works, as I do (did) use this email quite a bit.

Regards, Rod.

Rod, I still haven't heard from Google...the hosted email is a beta program and they don't seem to be supporting bugs! I will probally just discontinue the BMT Email. I can send you a regular Gmail invite if you like.

Thanks barry, but I already have a regular gmail account.

It would be nice to retrieve the BMT emails if at all possible.

Thanks. Rod.

Everything should be ok with the email now...let me know if your up and running.

Sorry Barry, no joy. I've logged out and in a few times but still nothing since 25th May.

Rod.

Hi Barry. I don't know whether this is a result of the hacker, but not non-members cannot view albums.

I think we had this problem awhile ago and you rectified it. Can you do the same again please, as I quite often link my album for friends to see. I feel it is very important for non-members to be able to view our pride and joy!

Thanks. Rod.

ps how is the email problem going?

I'll check into it. I will have to have google change the url, also. Sorry for the delay...I just got back from vacation!

Hope you enjoyed your time off Barry. Any update yet on the email. Rod.

Hi guys. This has been shown on tv and it shows one of our native animals enjoying the great outdoors, in more ways than one.

Hi Barry. Did the hackers get into the bigmacktrucks.com email system as I have not received emails for over a week and yet I know friends have sent me some.

Thanks. Regards, Rod.

Hi Guys, I photographed this just a couple of weeks ago at the Penrith Working Truck Show.

For the obvious reasons it commanded a lot of attention.

Rod.

UPDATE: Bought a maintenance manual for an NR on ebay and now firmly believe my bogie is off an NR (possibly a -14).

Carriers are CR-32 and CR-33, diffs are 9.02, location of front axle brakes, no part number of axles in normal location.

Apparently the NR initially was fitted with 14.00-20 tyres (single I presume). So when they fitted the duals, this would explain why my spiders are different. Springs are 13 leaves @ 5/8".

Also, ages ago, I mentioned that my diffs were leaking oil around the big oil seal that joins the two halves.

I was advised to use Wurth's Silicone Special 250. Absolutey fantastic. Very expensive, but fantastic.

Just for info. Regards, Rod.

Hotrod it once and ya it'll come apart real quick.

Surely my (HotRod) reputation has not reached the U.S.

Here I go again, resurrecting an old thread.

Re my rear axles, I've just been informed that they are probably off an NR Mack.

Perhaps this explains the spiders, the lack of numbers in the appropriate places.

Apparently most of those had 9.02 diffs.

Comments?

Thanks. Rod.

Graham, I was going 36mph (60kph). Fantastic. Don't have to worry about speed cameras. I think the quad will give me a couple more mph than the duplex. Hope so! Rod

Found another classic from the past forum;

From: stanwmc Sent: 20/12/2003 9:27 AM

Mark,

I'm a Mack 2-sticker too, so jes lissen to me. All ya gots to do is, git in the truck, crank it up, let it warm up a bit and make some air. Then if it's got spring-brakes, release'em, grab the sticks one at a time and stick'em in a slot 'bout close as you ken git um to your right knee. No throttle, jes ease out on the clutch. Whoa, don't let out no more, 'cause you got it in RE-verse. Now, pull the right stick (frum now on, that's the "main") straight back. Now you're in lo-lo-lo.So, ease off on the clutch, give it the throttle and go, put the pedal to the floor and hold it thar, lissenin to that Thermodyne growl. Then pretty quickly let off the throttle, grab the left stick (frum now on that's the compound), stir it around some, punch the pedal back to the floor,........repeat......repeat.......now the "main" and the "compound" at the same time.....then back to the main.....repeat.....repeat, then both at the same time again....You got it? Every now and then, in the middle of a shift, preferably while stirring both sticks, you look up and wave at another trucker you're meeting, also checking your mirrors pretty often, watching oil and water gauges to see that everything's in order, listen to the CB, give road reports to whoever's lisen'in. Atter awhile, you'll be in top cog and you jes keep the hammer down till you get where you're going or the first truck-stop, whichever. If it's a truck-stop, go in and flirt with Suzy, eat sum coffee with a fork, fight a while, being sure to kick sum butts, and git back at it. Now we truckin'. All it takes is guts to start doin' it, then soon all that 'sperience will make you a perfesshunal.

Stan

Herb, I just found out from the guys at Mack in Australia that my B model was originally delivered with a tandam drive rear end with an 8.24 ratio( that would have been bloody slow).

Graham, some of us are still running (ha ha) around on 9.02's

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I resurrected this out of the old forum and thanks to Tom for a good laugh;

From: fuzzybuzzard (Original Message) Sent: 26/04/2003 10:54 AM

Since all you Mack folks have had the good luck to survive most of the winter without hearing from me, I just thought I would end it tonight!! Got an update on my old "2 stack Mack with a shack on the back". Spent several weeks under the gal trying to stuff a 3 speed aux. trans up in the drive line. Lost about 48" of drive shaft in the process. But the graft finally took hold and now we have a B61 integral sleeper with a 10 speed duplex (1 to 1 in high), a Spicer 8035G aux (0.84 to 1 in overdrive) with a 4.00 to 1 rear end. Now I know this could have been accomplished by just changing the main trans but anybody could have done that. Besides, there wouldn't have been a 3rd stick poking up thru the floor - got to have that 3rd stick (its a mental thing you know). Talk about 170 horsepower going down the road!!! 60 mph at 1600 rpm (not good in a 55 mph state) and 71 mph at 1900 rpm. Had her up to 75 but the dogs eyes were watering so bad I couldn't read the tach (maybe that was MY eyes watering!) You could watch all the plastic truckers say - "What the hell is - was that!" Man, it was worth all the sliding around in the gravels getting all that mess put together, all the fab work, drive shaft work. And sitting in the captin's chair wondering which stick I'm suppose to grab next, life just don't get any better than this!

It would be super cool to see the speedo needle over there in the virgin numbers!

Thanks from Ignorant Ridge

Tom

******************************************

Good on ya Tom. Regards, Rod.

Hi Guys. If your interested, the old girl is up and running again.

First shakedown run today. Minor problem with the airline that goes to the shutterstat - ie it burst.

Boy does that air bleed off quick and the maxi's came on just as I turned off a busy road.

It took about 10mins to find the problem.

What I found quite funny was, that I could not really track down the area of the air leak as the engine was running. But if I had shut down the engine I would never have found it as I then would not have had a source of air pressure - catch 22!!!

Ah the sound of that turbo

And I can still grate the gears in the quad, just like I did in the duplex.

Regards, Rod.

Happy figuring!!! but don't stop at 65, go for 100 mph - you can always slow down some.

Tom

Hi Tom, I've searched high and low in the old forum for your description of you travelling so fast, your 'dogs eyes were watering.

If you still have this article, would you please repost it (or email it to me) as I can remember laughing so much at your description.

Regards, Rod.

Ok guys, help requested again.

My C motor is now installed and I have a Luber-Finer oil filter behind the left hand side fuel tank. Therefore two large diameter plus one smaller diameter oil lines between the filter and engine.

I filled the sump with 20 litres (42 pints).

Started the engine and the oil pressure came up and then fluctuated (as I expected as the lines were empty of oil). After about 3mins, the fluctuations were still there but of a lesser amount.

I shut down the engine and added about another 6litres (13 pints) and now the oil pressure is good with nil fluctuations. This may still not be enough.

On checking the dipstick that came with the engine, this shows about 1 1/2inches above the full mark.

About the same reading as when it had the old oil in it.

I am extremely cautious about dipsticks as I have heard of numerous occasions where an incorrect dipstick had been fitted and when the oil was filled to the full mark, there was not enough oil in the sump with disastrous results.

Is it possible for someone with a C motor to say, put a wire all the way down the tube until it hits the bottom of the sump and measure the oil level from the bottom of the sump.

I know I'm paranoid, but after an engine change, I do not want another similar experience.

Comments appreciated. Thanks. Rod.

ps it sounds fanbloodytastic!

Hi Graham and Herb,

Yes, Mack Australia is my last port of call these days. Unfortunately the old B's do not appear on their computers, so they do not exist.

Mack advised me it was alright to put their latest Gearbox oil in a quadbox, whereas I've been told that these should not be filled with oil greater than GL1, due to the later additives not being good for an older box.

Herb, regarding my aircleaner - I always presumed (probably wrongly) that the glass bowl on top was just a pre-cleaner. Is there a major difference between what Graham has and what I have.

I have made enquiries re replacing mine.

I presume that they both have 4" ducting to the engine.

Comments appreciated.

Thanks. Rod.

If I recall Bendix has nice diagrams showing common air line set ups. It should point you in the right direction.

I've found this helpful;

http://www.gnb.ca/0276/vehicle/pdf/ab_manual-e.pdf

Regards, Rod.

Be warned that this will not cut the compressor out so you will have to shut the engine down before you over pressurize the system.

Thad, I believe my tanks have a pressure relief valve, which should alleviate this problem. I do not know what pressure this is set to.

I do agree with you however, that we should be ready to shut the engine down, just in case backups do not work.

Regards, Rod.

Now in the final stages of the conversion to the "C" motor.

Is there anything wrong with me putting a filter like this on the front of the turbo, instead of yards and yards of ducting and 180deg turns etc?

I would still keep the old oil bath on the outside.

Comments appreciated.

Regards, Rod.

Ok. I believe there is quite a bit of sludge on the bottom of the cases.

I really don't want to put flushing oil in it. And I don't really want to contaminate the new oil I put into it.

I read somewhere that kerosene may disolve the sludge. The motor still has not been fired up yet and so I'm just wondering if I could put, say, about half a gallon (2 litres) of kero in it and let it sit for a few days.

Thoughts? Thanks, Rod.

More help please. I note that my TRQ-7210 should take 36 pints (about 17 litres) of oil. When I filled my quad to the level-filler plug it only took about half this and when I checked the sump plug for the compund case, there was no oil in there. NO, I have not been driving it like this.

How does the oil get to the compound section?

Should I just put the correct amount into the box via the top?

Thanks. Regards, Rod.

Thanks Herb. Yes, I got the ratios from the oldmacksrus page down the bottom of our forum page. Very useful. Thanks again. Rod.