mackaholic

On ‎12‎/‎5‎/‎2016 at 7:22 PM, AZB755V8 said:

I got an LTL with that crossmember. Mine is in great shape except for the driveshaft tunnel.  The previous owner had the aluminum front crossmember crack and dropped the engine, in turn the universal joint came up and tore up the tunnel in the crossmember before getting the truck stopped.

Is that $1300 a finished machined crossmember?

That's for the crossmember as it is in the picture. The ends will have to be machined to whatever width your frame is now and all the holes drilled.

I've got some of that stuff. PM sent.

I've been looking for a set for my LTH for a couple of months now. I used the Webb website to find part numbers for some that should fit. You can search by any of the drum dimensions and maybe find something close. Good Luck.

Left Elko, Nevada this morning headed east in mackdaddy's MH. Got the Aussies in tow as well. Had an E-9 race somewhere in the middle of nowhere and lost to that RH drive Valueliner. Somewhere out here I gotta give that driving on the right deal a go.

As you can see from the pictures the early RLs had the low hood, many people say they were never made that way. I never have seen a real one, does anyone know of a low hood that still exists? I was talking about this a few weeks ago with someone, interesting.

FW

I ran across a 68' RL 700 out here in CA a couple of months ago. Had the low hood, Budds all around and a 8v detroit in it. Guy wanted $2000 for it not running. It even had the small door in the top of the hood at the front for checking the coolant without tilting the hood.

Thanks for the info Brad. My question regarding the removable axle caps was whether the hubs for one-piece axles would fit my housings, which have a surface outboard the retaining nut for the seal in the removable caps. Do the hubs for one piece axles have enough clearance behind the axle flange to clear the housing? I'd prefer to use hubs/drums for wedge/s-cam brakes with the removable axle caps, but the only budd hubs I have are for one-piece axles.

I know what you're refering to but I don't know if they will interchange. You can alays pull them both apart and start measuring.

The roto-chamber narrow brakes on my LT are in need of some serious attention, not to mention they are sorely lacking in stopping ability. What does it take to retro fit later model hubs and wide brakes with standard #30 chambers? I have 2 sets of R model bogies with S cam brakes, tho the have spoke hubs. Do wedge brake drum/hubs interchange with S cam drum/hubs? My LT hubs have renovable splined axle caps. Do hubs with one piece axles interchange?

Kelly,

I have done a couple of swaps of later Mack brakes to early housings. One was our F-model with wedge brakes to s-cams, the other is a set of b-model housings with narrow shoes and rotochambers to spring brakes. For the wedge brakes, just the brake spiders (brackets that hold the shoes and s-cam shafts)needed to be changed. As long as they are Mack they should bolt on. You may need to switch them from side to side to get them to clear everything. The shoes were the same width so the wedge brake drums worked fine.

The bolt paterns on the splined hubs are different than the one piece axle so they won't interchange. I'm over near Santa Rosa, CA if you ever get this far west and want to take a look at the conversion. There are 6-8 other LT's over here as well.

Brad

My 55 LT has the rear end housings which use 6each 1/2" bolts positioned fore and aft, 2each 3/4" bolts on the right side, and 2each 3/4" through bolts on the left side. The rear housing is stamped 1QFA5272AP6, and SWD 52. I have a set of drop ins from an early B model stamped CRD93-15-39, which uses 10each 5/8" bolts. My existing drop ins are 8.31, and I'd like to use the B model drop ins since they are 5.03. The LT has good straight housings with very good brakes and light springs, and the B model brakes are junk, the springs are much heavier, and the front housing is pranged, is it possible to ream the holes on the B model drop ins to 3/4 so they can be installed in the LT housings?

Nice looking LT, always good to see another Mack in CA.

As for the drop ins, they should fit fine. Most of the locating takes place at the flange and on the ears at the bottom of the carrier, not with the holes so drilling them out shouldn't be a problem. I have even seen the later drop ins with 18? bolts used in the earlier housings. The only tough area is the through bolts. The later drop ins used bolts under the side cover instead of the long studs. If I remember correctly you have to tap the upper holes housing and put in larger bolts under the side covers and dummy bolts with nuts in the lower holes.

I've been collecting parts for my LTL for several years and am getting close. I have the chance to get copies made of an original aluminum cab crossmember. They will be exact duplicates of the original down to the part numbers. The mounting holes will have to be drilled after casting. They will be about $1200 ea.(very pricey) but these are not available anywhere in any condition that I've been able to locate. Anyone else out there interested?

Take a look on e-bay. There is a Mack/Waterous manual for sale, Item number: 330298725922. Looks like what you're after.

Brad

When I was in college there was a prof. who had a GMC pickup with a detroit in it. I don't know which model but you could hear him coming from miles away. Better use plenty of firewall insulation!

It's a BBQ. He does a lot of outdoor cooking and is a KW nut.

Brad

I made this up for a buddy of mine when he got married(poor guy). I found the grille at a local wrecking yard and when I saw it I knew immediately what to do with it. I've got some extra B-73 aluminum radiators that I'm thinking of doing something similar with only I think i'll use them for the surround, not the grille. Brad

Hello from my Dad and I. We have a small shop between Snohomish and Monroe. We have worked on almost every kind of truck and piece of equipment there is at one time or another. We currently have a 94 Mack in the shop with a broken cam, so I thought it was time to join this forum and talk about all things Mack.

Welcome,

It's good to hear from another West Coaster. Doesn't seem to be too many of us out here. What shape is your LF in?

Brad

I'm trying to get my hands on a truck here in Northern CA and I've got some questions about who built it. It started as a 4 cylinder, chain drive, light weigth AC. Sometime after that it was converted to it's current state using an early B model hood, cowl band and radiator. The frame is now a rivited triple frame using the AC suspension. The engine is a Mack 6 cylinder but the rest of the drive train is AC. The cab is an AC with the cowl being modified to fit the B hood. I've seen pictures of another truck converted just like this one and heard that they were done by a company in the Los Angeles area. Anyone heard of this or have any info on these trucks. I can't understand why anyone would go to this much trouble when they could have just bought an F model?

I've had several people suggest that but I've seen two of these trucks with the same fender/hood/cab configuration so I believe its a separate model but which one?

Hi All,

Been a while since I've posted so I hope this works. Any one know what model Mack this is? There is one like this here in Northern CA that I have seen pictures of but haven't been able to see in person. I believe it's an FH or FJ. The one I am trying to get has a triple frame and the same body as this. I've seen lots of C cab Macks but not with the raised steel section below the windshield. It doesn't show real well here but there is a 2-3 inch section of the cowl that is above the hood line if the hood were sitting flat. Any thoughts?

Brad

Out here in Northern CA there are several LT's that are used regularly. One pulls a lowbed hauling dozers and excavators. The other pulls an end dump. It's great to see them coming up the road at you. The lowbed tractor still has a supercharged cummins. Ever better than seeing it is hearing it coming!

Sounds like solenoid problems. They do two things. First the solenoid pulls the starter drive into the ring gear and then makes the conection to spin the starter motor. Inside the solenoid is a large copper disk that contacts the positive battery cable terminal (on neg. ground trucks) and the terminal that goes to the starter. If that disk gets corroded or arced from starting with low voltage it may not be making good enough contact to spin the starter motor. If you can get the solenoid apart you can clean the terminals and disk. Also put a bit of lubrication or the starter shaft where the drive slides back and forth. Should solve the problem.

Does anyone have any experience repairing the cracks in a Mack steering wheel ? Would an epoxy filler color matched to the green color work ?

I really did not want to spend mega dollars to restore a really good original wheel; I just need to fix a couple of cracks. Also the wheel is the 20" B67 wheel, which is a little harder to come by - so I am reluctant to send it out.

Thanks in advance.

Paul Van Scott

I've had pretty good luck with the epoxy as well. Take a dremel tool and clean out the cracks and make the crack wider below the surface of the crack(the epoxy will have less chance of cracking and falling out). After it hardens just sand it down and repaint the wheel. If you use a good brand of hardened paint it will last for years. You'll have to put in a lot of hours behind the wheel to wear it off.

Brad

I herd the dynatard was the only engine brake for the E9. Too bad I hear its about as useful on as it is off

You've heard correct. My dad's got an F715 with the 866 and dynatard. It makes noise and smoke and will stop the truck empty on flat ground. Other that that it's not worth much.

Ok, so i found a B model Quad pumper that will be up for auction soon. now seeing it, the cab area isnt in the greatest of shape, including the chrome nose on it and bumper. now id love to save this truck more than anything, so how much of a pain is it to restore a truck like this? And how much money.

Hers a few pictures http://photobucket.com/albums/e74/Felixthe...nt=IMG_1104.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/e74/Felixthe...nt=IMG_1106.jpg

http://photobucket.com/albums/e74/Felixthe...nt=IMG_1063.jpg

Well, it all depends on what you want out of the truck when you're done. I've worked on trucks that guys have put $50,000 into that they never drive and then there are people who buy a truck like you're looking at, get it running and drive the heck out of it while they're fixing it up . As a guideline you can probably buy one all fixed up for half of what you'd put in it.

Personally I prefer the later. If you like the truck, buy it and get it running as soon as possible. It's a lot more fun to work on something you can drive and enjoy. You can also put money in it as you have it. That's what I'm doing with my LJSWX. I've seen a lot of people who have torn vehicles completely apart with the intention of fixing them up and then they loose interest before they finish it. A fire truck is even worse because of all the bodywork involved. This one looks pretty good from the pictures. Chrome is easy to redo, rusted out bodies and blown engines are much more costly and time consuming.

Bottom line, If you really like the truck and it's not totally rusted or parted out, go for it and enjoy it at you're own pace.

Fifthwheel had the brake parts that I needed for my LJSWX, shipped them to me and traded for some parts I had as well. The right parts in good shape, easy to deal with. Thanks for the help keeping my old LJ on the road. Brad