aspeltz

You can start with the previous owner providing a bill of sale. Sometimes that works. The vin should be on the seat base, officers side.

I have found Samson, Power King, and Milestar. All made in China. The ones from Specialty Tires of America look like the real deal, but their website says they are only available for export or to the US military.

Yep. Power King, made in China.

My 1951 85LS currently has 900-20 tires installed which I believe are original. The fire department I work for is restoring their 1925 Ahrens-Fox engine and ironically has the same size tires as my Mack. These tires are seriously dry rotted and in need of replacement. Does anyone know of a supplier for this 900-20 size that is not a military tire or made in China? Already tried Coker and a few others.

There is no "wrong color of red" for fire apparatus. Every other color would be wrong in my opinion. "The grass is green. The sky is blue. And fire trucks are red." Alan Brunacini

Road Trip, I would take one off your hands also for my '51 85LS.

It is talked about on page 71 of Harvey's L model book. About 1949 they switched from a narrower highly crowned front fender to a wider front fender. I have a '51 85LS and used to have a '50 85LS and both had the wider front fender. I personally like them better, contrary to what Harvey says. Especially with the wider front bumper and chrome windshield trim in the semi open cabs. Also, I think someone said the L fire apparatus may have had different front fenders than the over the road trucks/tractors?

Does anyone know where you can find the ball caps that have the Mack logo and the bulldog with the fire helmet? Or does anyone have this logo in an electronic graphic format that could be used to print on T shirts or hats?

I sent you a PM.

Thanks to everyone that responded. Update: Still no fuel. I unhooked the connection at the pump inlet. From that there is a rubber line about two feet long that runs to a hard line. I replaced that rubber line with high pressure fuel hose. The copper line runs all the way to the back of the tank. I unhooked the hard line connection at the tank. I blew air through the entire hard line. No obstructions and no leaks. I blew air into the tank and could hear it bubbling and see vapor coming out the gas cap. With the truck running I could feel very little, if any, suction from the inlet of the pump. I sprayed some gas into the inlet of the pump to prime. It did not take much before it came running back out. I hooked everything back up. I fired up the truck and still no fuel. The guy that rebuilt my pump said the arm on the pump that goes into the block may not be seated right on the cam. I assumed that if the arm gets inserted into the hole in the block and you are able to bolt it up, it must be in the right place. I guess that may not be the case. I might have to remove the pump again? Any suggestions

41chevy The portable tank goes directly into the carb. I could run it through the fuel pump. Then I could rule out a defective pump. Will air pressure also take care of a clogged sock on the pick up tube or do I need to remove the tank? There is plenty of stuff in the way in order to get the tank off.

fyfymn The truck is started and runs when drawing fuel from the portable tank. While the engine is running the fuel pump should be pumping gas from the main tank through the line up to the carb that is disconnected. Except that is not happening.

Upon purchase of my 1951 85LS my first project was to connect the fuel system. When doing so, I noticed the fuel pump was pumping little fuel and eventually quit. I had the fuel pump rebuilt. Installed the rebuilt fuel pump. I ran the truck on a portable tank straight into the carb and still no gas coming forward from the main tank. Gas tank level is at least 15-20 gallons in a 50 gallon tank. Engine never runs long enough to heat fuel for a vapor lock issue. I have ran the truck for at least 5-10 minutes at a time with the gas cap on and off. There is no other fuel pump near the tank. I can't be sure that there is not a crack in a fuel line. The only thing I hear leaking is an air leak from a brake line I have off to repair. It is just capped right now until I can bend a new line. I have to pump the bulb on the portable tank so I can't be under the truck too long to inspect. Any suggestions would be great.

Albert, I used Arthur Gould Rebuilders in New York http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/ Arthur Gould Rebuilders 5R Main Street Kings Park, NY 11754 United States (631)269-0093 Over the phone he quoted me $80 for a single action and $100 for a dual action. They rebuild yourworn out pump you send to them. I had a single action and was charged $90. I paid shipping both ways. They use the viton or equivalent diaphragms. Turnaround time in their shop was about 3-4 days. Came back looking like brand new. Other people here have used Kanter Auto in Boonton NJ. I called them before Arthur Gould with part numbers for a quote and never heard back. Big turn off for me.

I just received my new rebuilt fuel pump for my 707A. I'm planning on using all new hardware and fittings into and out of the pump. I heard to not use teflon tape on fuel fittings. If so, is there anything else to use. I don't want any leaks.

Maddog13407, Good to know. I just assumed everything that used the six spoke hub was a split rim. I think they called them Dayton or Budd wheels.

Loadstar, 9.00X20 would have been original. You can still find them new for $200 - $250 each. The catch is finding someone willing to work on the split rims. They can be dangerous if not done properly. I'm not sure if you can run a different size tire and/or rim, but I'm guessing anything is possible.

Loadstar, Still not quite roadworthy. I'm sure it will be a continual work in progress. I did find out that Brockton PA was not the original owner. It was originally delivered to Emmaus PA, only 5 miles from Allentown via Long Island. Some day I'd like to letter it to the original Emmaus markings.

I just received mine yesterday. It took 9 1/2 weeks. You should get a letter stating your trucks serial number and which FD it was delivered to and when. Besides the manual you should get 3 or 4 black and white photos of the truck right before it left the plant. The manual typically won't be exact for your truck but is a compilation of manuals pieced together as accurate as available for your truck. It should cover all major components of the truck. Also, it will list what fire equipment was speced with the truck which is very useful. I don't know of any other sources for manuals.

Cressona PA

Here are some of the pictures I have taken so far. I still haven't had it on the road yet. I thought I was going to get by easy with a quart and a half of brake fluid and some bleeding but then broke a small line leading to the vacuum tank. Also, the fuel lines from the tank to the fuel pump contain gas that looks like dark roasted coffee. Of course the gas tanks drain plug will not come free after several hours of trying.

Brockton PA Fire Co. 2. 85LS 1521. I just bought it last week.

Minnesota Zip 55066

I just bought an 85LS fire truck in Pennsylvania. I'm pretty sure I have a shipper lined up. Prices are reasonable if he is fully loaded both ways. My truck is about half his load. He is looking for something else to fill his trailer out to the Midwest. Also, he is planning for a return haul back east. Does anyone know of anything in need of being moved? Or, would anyone else be able to haul this for me at a reasonable price?

Firemack, Thanks for the lead. I'm trying to stick with the original motor and pump though.