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Vladislav

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Posts posted by Vladislav

  1. The front corners of the cab are removable fiberglass panels. Easy to fix by the way of general fix for fiberglass. The front turn signals look just broken off or removed and their pedestals are up above. The spots don't look broken. The lights themself are standard lights you can purchase from SLC lighting or others. Overall the truck looks quite solid on the pics. MH has chassis similar to 2nd gen Superliner with only difference in the front spring front brackets since they have hinges for the cab integrated in the castings. MH's are typically shorter than RW's so chassis are less stressed during the service life. And supposed to be less cracked. But the particular truck is quite long for a MH. The engine is probably E6-350 for 1985-1988 (or 89) and later ones had E7's. MH613 means Mack engine tandem rears.

    The engine, tranny, rears and the chassis are typical Mack stuff. Not far from an R-model. Front axle and springs are similar to Superliner as said above so no trouble to find spares (no more than for a R-model).  Specific parts are the cab which is rust-free but may have stress cracks. The one on the pics looks very solid. Typical issue is the shifter linkage where multiple joints wear out and bring troubles shifting into a particular gear. Some spots are relatively easy to fix (by machining) and some not. Complete linkage is difficult to get. Also when you're up in the cab and far from the tranny you barely hear when it grinds being shifted not in time. That's my observation in relation to an R. Windscreens aren't for sale at every corner and many trucks have repairs in the plates where cab shock absorbers fit. Cab airbags aren't a trouble to locate. Cab lifting pump may be leaky but that's just a hydraulic pump.

    While driving you must keep specific road orientation relating to an R-model since you seat much closer to the outer side of the vehicle. Actually you're riding the FL wheel so you must keep yourself up close to the median white line on the pavement otherwise you may hit a pole by RH mirror. Maneurity is like of a big car in relation to a conventional. Of other typical MH issues the threadle valve in the cab use to get stuck having long steel plunger in aluminium base but that's when the truck is parked for a long while. Anyway worth to take apart, clean, put grease and install solid top rubber cover. The grill parts are hen's teeth as pointed above but those on the truck are fine judging by the pics.

    On the postive side aside of maneurity you have perfect access to the tranny and easiness of clutch replace if needed. 

    Ugh, and always be patient and keep attention while getting off the cab :)

    Vlad

    • Like 1
  2. On 1/17/2024 at 5:08 PM, Licensed to kill said:

    Thank you Larry. Much appreciated. That is what mine is also. My problem must be with the other lever on the clutch pedal shaft. This has me REALLY baffled since al the parts I have came of a B-61 and I am using the same transmission and same clutch pedal arrangement so everything g SHOULD work....but it doesn't. In. your picture, it looks lie the lever on the clutch shaft is rather short, MUCH shorter than the one I took out of one of my trucks. I will put it all back together and post a pic. Hopefully someone will recognize what the problem is. 

    Did you also use the original rear engine mounts for all the assembly?

    I honestly don't remember all the plated ways you was figuring how to set up the truck the best but IF the chassis is the same, the engine is the same and the tranny is the same... the lever must fit. I can't imagine you put it upside down or someone came into your garage, stole the original one and put something else in place of it.

  3. Welcome to the dog house! Beware where you step! :)

    Hercules engines were installed in Studebaker US-6 trucks and also in Diamond-T's of WW2 times. Personally I'm not familiar with Herkules but know someone I could ask about. PM me which particular engine model you're looking info on and we will try to go from that.

    Sure the forum folks may be of help too. But mostly here's Mack-related stuff.

    Vlad

     

    • Like 1
  4. 11 hours ago, Wirlybird said:

    Ok Guy's, thank you for all the ideas and info.  Problem solved, at least for now.

    This AM, 17 degrees out, I removed the strap between the left solenoid post and the starter post.
    Found the nut on the starter post to be a bit loose as in not tight enough.  that was a good sign!

    Once I had the strap off I found the arcing/pitting on the underside of the strap where it goes onto the starter body post.  Another good sign.
    Tested the solenoid and constantly got power to the left post when turning the key.  Good sign.

    Jumped the starter between right post and start post.  Starter spun good.

    Cleaned everything up and after several trips inside to thaw out I got it all back together.  Cranks right up and engaged and cranked strong.
    NOW, I have to replace two little plastic pieces and springs in the fuel supply pump and we'll see if it will start.

    All is done the right way! Great to learn the problem is solved.

    If you're going to use the truck in the future and taking to account that machine isn't new it worth to remove the starter and go through it completely. Mostly for cheking contition of the brushes and shaft bushings and also for cleaning and grease. These starters seem able to work for really long time. But preventive service would minimize chances of unexpected failure.

    • Like 1
  5. Yes, there's a style of steering boxes with circulating balls. That's good design regarding the function. As I understood it came on the big truck scene a bit later, after those simple warm and sector boxes. The steering box is of screw, nut and sector style. You spin a screw by steering shaft which drives or undrives in/out of a nut. The nut is also a rack having teeth on one outer side. The teeth are mashed to a teethed sector which turns Pitman arm shaft. The balls are put in the threads between the screw and the nut. So the threads operate as a ball bearing. If the box is an integrated power steering the nut also takes function of a piston having seal rings over its body and moving in a cylindrical cavit bored in the housing.

    That style usually has a set screw but you can adjust mesh between teeth of the nut and sector only. And if you ran all that adjustment to its limit and still have play in the box that means the balls or their racing surfaces are worn and a fix is replacement of the parts or complete steering box.

    • Like 1
  6. Here's a bit of what to look at. The unit is SG-16 made by Mack in 1945. Earlier than yours but from your description I guess very similar. Steering shaft put into a long tube you see in the cab which is attached to the top of the housing under the hood. No U-joints. I indeed had to remove the steering wheel when dismantled the unit off the chassis and that was a trouble with splines stuck to the shaft. Having no luck with simple movements I tried attaching a puller but ended up with a chiesel hitting from below the steering wheel and cracking its lower skird. Found no other way. But looks like you may try removing all the column off the housing together with the steering wheel. My style had the column driven into the housing with threads. Bend off the lip of the lock washer and turn the column (the tube) counterclockwise.

    The gear itself is a simple warm and sector. My model had the Pitman arm shaft spinning in two needle bearings not cooper bushings. Originally the gear showed excessive play either so I went through it and finding play of the shaft and seeing no wear on its journals I started a hunt on the bearings. Those were marked Torrington-something and after stiring a pot at my local parts supplier I in a month and a half purchased... one bearing. And after telling them "Yes, that's true, I asked for two" and two more months to wait (and paying double shipping cost) I grabbed the 2nd one. To my big frustration after reinstalling both bearings the play rest as it was with the old ones. So it looked like Mack minded that way from the factory (and I didn't liked it). 

    The warm and sector teeth didn't have any notable wear either so my further look put on the bronze bushing the sector seats against and limits its end play. I made additional shim and if assembled with it the shaft had no radial play and all the gear lost 95% of its play too. I was pleased but not cheered since if the shaft had no tight vertical support in the bearings it would lean (dance) under steering force trying to brake the cover or so. And the thickness of the gasket was a mistery to me too since it influences the required bushing thickness. 

    That time I ended up with the original bushing and no gasket (put sealer) and some notable steering wheel play of a couple of inches I would like to minimize for perfection. But I never drove multiple old trucks down the road so kept it about the way Mack made it. Much later a large factory repair manual happened to appear in my hands and Mack engeneers were offering to set the shaft end play by thickness of the gasket (!). That was written there with a comment of no shims of other than standard thickness were avalible.

    The truck is still in the shed having no engine and cab on so no comments on driving experience from my side. Hope the pics will help you.  

    P.S. As I remember the warm could be removed from the steering shaft in a case you find it bad and no need to remove the steering wheel for that. Also look up for the electrical horn wire as it goes through the steering shaft getting out of the gear at its bottom end.

    Vnukovo.04.2013.00384_resize.JPG

    Vnukovo.04.2013.00385.JPG

    Vnukovo00192.5.2012_resize.jpg

    Vnukovo00190.5.2012.jpg

  7. That guy had a nick name of Bigdogtrucker on here and used to be a long time active member in the past. I remeber having exchanged a few PM's with him a while back and he said he was active on FB in some antique Mack group (or so). So that may be one more way to try contacting him.

    • Like 1
  8. 12 hours ago, 67RModel said:

    They are asking $18,000 US Dollars and if it does not sell by 1/15 they are sending it to an auction. 

    From The Listing:

    This machine is being sold by norsemenauction.com. It is available for $18,000 USD. If it doesn't sell, it will roll into auction on January 15. The last available bidding day will be January 31. Additional photos and videos available at norsemenauction.com Chains and tools NOT included - Fantastic Condition - Clean Interior - 319,084 Miles - Mack E9 Engine - 440 HP - Turbo - Engine Brake - Differential Lock -12 Speed Manual Mack Transmission - 8x2 - Rubber Block Suspension - Drum Brakes - A/C - Power Steering - Headache Rack - Wet Kit - Mud Flaps - Heated Mirrors

    Overall sounds quite reasonable. If the condition is good the truck has good chances for a new home having E9.

    My personal taste is more to the 2nd generation Superliner and having the amount of projects I already have looking for one more truck is more just drool. But who knows?:)

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