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Posts posted by Vladislav
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17 hours ago, h67st said:
Good question...what's the difference between the two?
F600 were built using R-model chassis rails (or more correctly to say R-model got F600 chassis when came into production in 1965. F600 started in 1962) F700 have different and model specific rails. IDK why it's 700 since the rear portion rails section is identical (9x1/4")
If I'm not wrong F700 were just later production trucks replacing F600 at some point. That shafty part you see between the bumper and the lower cab edge is a kind of torsion bar (or what else I don't know what particulary) makes me thinking it's F600.
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Is that F700 for real not F600?
Nice truck with steel dash.
Thanks for sharing.
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And sorry for my grammer mistakes in the past. It looks (from where I'm sitting) there's some improvement on this point after 12 more years on here.
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On 7/9/2025 at 10:58 PM, mrsmackpaul said:
There's another thread were the chassis is getting done, Vlad rivets the chassis back together and all
All very impressive stuff
I'll let Vlad tell the story as it's his story, or do a bit of a search and you'll find it all
Paul
Paul, thanks for taking care of my content. I have been off the city for a couple of days and couldn't post. Honestly I surprized you kept in mind my resto adventures and could find the engine thread.
The chassis tale is here:
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7 hours ago, terry said:
That lanova is a rare bird!! Terry
Yes, it is. It took me a while to find a correct engine in the past since my original chassis had a wrong one. Ended up importing a whole donor truck from Europe. With the engine stuck.
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Overall NR's were basically made as a L-model chassis. They seem closer to LF I guess having relatively light front axle, 44000 rears and single frame rails. But the wheels were used of 11.00-24 size with super single 14.00-20 rears on early production units.
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Thanks for the warm comments guys and blokes!
As we know they're very motivating and are an essential need in proceed of these big projects.
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9 hours ago, tjc transport said:
its about time ya slacker!!!!!
Seems like I should choose as "the most helpful answer" this your post as it's offered in the top of the page
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On 6/30/2025 at 8:21 PM, 1958 F.W.D. said:
She has two R-Models that she hauls grain with- she also built one for the Mack Museum. I think she can handle the FWD.
Ok, cheers on me
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On 6/26/2025 at 1:25 AM, 1961H67 said:
Thank you for the information, Unfortunately as for the interior of the Freedom is the best part of it , The worst part is the frame, it’s aluminum, the guys we bought it from installed a plate on the outside, and did a good job, but it’s corroded at every cross member, my thought would be unbolt it under the cab , only 4 bolts on each side attach it to the big steel frame , find a air ride cut off and start changing all the brackets, but I’ve been using it this way so that’s later down the road. I may replace the hood, my number one goal is to paint it back the original grey and red stripes, it’s still the original color on the fire wall . The E6 350 runs great, 10 speed trans . It has some slack in the front spring shackles but overall it’s still pretty sound .I saw a old post were one was hit in the front but I don’t think this is the same truck, I guess it was repainted when the hood was replaced, I bought this one in Gallipolis OH . I’ve had my Helper working on it some today.
I think all Macks of that year had firewall and door openings (the whole cab inside) painted graphite metallic. So that's not a Freedom feature.
For the frame my way would be ordering a pair of new straight steel rails from PG Adams or so of similar section as the alu ones are, slide them in place of the bad ones and reattach all the chassis parts back on. Probably a big job but you get very close to original config in the end. The rails may be ordered pre-drilled for a few more coins (about 70% extra to the cost though) but that is notably time consuming along the job.
I like the look of the truck in this current color very much. But no doubt bringing its appearance back to that limited series butch is a must to do along a possible resto deal.
And if I'm not wrong Rene, the Nederland guy had a few sets of Freedom decals fabricated in the past. He used to be a member on here (Mack boy?) so checking out may be an efforts saving point too.
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Don't you need the heater unit to be re-arranged? It's under the passenger seat in the stock configuration.
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Thanks guys.
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Didn't go for free as it seems to me but looks like a good solid truck on the picture.
Thanks for sharing, I like them L's.
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Wow! Great! Thanks for sharing!
Just looks like I need a couple of evenings to go through all those nice shots.
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On 6/9/2025 at 12:03 AM, mrsmackpaul said:
Here is some ideas for mounting bunk and cab as one
Vlads sleeper build is fantastic, Vlad also had a thread going were he cut the back wall in the R model cab into the big opening
A very informative thread, I couldn't find it, Vlad might track it down for you if he reads this and share a link across
Paul
Paul mate,
It happens I'm a penny bit busy in the recent times. Interesting thread, would be cool if we see the final result some day. Here is a link to my R-model restoration work. Including the opening arrangement.
https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/61222-r-model-cab-resto-report/#comment-444164
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The Longest Day...
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Looks like a common TRD-72-something Mack tranny of those times. The main box is an over with that "mirror: shift pattern" if I understood correctly what you're talking about. I mean 4th (direct) is down and the 5th (overdrive) is up.
The reason is, when you shift direct you slide a sliding clutch up front in the tranny to unify the main shaft with the spigot (the pinion). This way you get a "solid straight shaft" through all the transmission (the main box) which means a direct gear (actually no gear). As long as you slide the sliding clutch up front you move the shift lever to the rear (it has a ball moint in the tranny top cover). So the direct is normally with the lever pulled back.
And when you put the lever up front in the same cluster it slides the clutch into another gear wheel, the first on the main shaft after the constant mesh set. IF that gear is lover than 1.0 ratio you get slightly lower ratio which would be #3. So you're Ok shifting 1st left-up, than 2nd left-down, than 3rd right-up and 4th (direct) right-down.
Or if we count starting from the crawl gear which shifts against the reverse it would be 1-2-3-4-5 with 5th direct.
So life's good. Until we desire an overdrive tranny. Practically it's done by installing a fast set of gears in place of the 3rd gear set. Which was slower than direct but becomes faster. Physically tranny remains the same. But when you shift right-front you get a ratio faster than 1.0. So you have first shift to direct which is right-down (or back).
Later series transmissions were bult the same way (including T200 series). But correction was done in the shifter rails arrangement. There's a kind of a balancer lever in the top cover or I don't know how to call it correctly. Design is when you put the shift lever right-front it moves the rail and the fork also up front due to double reversing by that balancer setup and the shift tower ball joint. So you're getting the overgear after the direct one following the normal shift sequence.
Speaking the compound it could be of different ratio. Some trannies (duplex) had if of 1/37 (if I'm not wrong) so you have "halves" for splitting (usually for Lanova Diesels). Gas jobs had wider revs range (up to 3000RPM's against 2000 with diesel) so the truck could drive with no splitting and the aux box could be slower for off road or slow pull operations.
Actually the compound could also be a triplex or quadriplex attached to that same main box.
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Don't you ocassionally have drawings for laser cut panels you're going to install?
Or are you going to hand cut those plates?
I also want to make new insert panels but their geometry isn't really simple shapes, needs a bit of head scratching for measurings and scatching.
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Welcome to the forum and congrats on the great purchase!
Also thanks for posting photo's on your new toy, we all like to see cool truck pics.
Vlad
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Seems like a steal
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Marriage
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
Thanks Gentlemen!