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Pedigreed Bulldog
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Posts posted by Vladislav

  1. Neat B-model. And I like all those monitors put on the table. In fact this matter is a bit deeper than it could appear. Not only he-animals mark their territory. She-animals do it either in some cases.

    Thanks for the pictures. Like to see activities you share.

  2. 23 hours ago, tjc transport said:

    they chose to be banned. we did not do it willy nilly. 

    they were asked to abide by the VERY FEW AND SIMPLE site rules. 

    and flat out refused to. 

    what else could be done? 



    look at it this way.... if i were to come to your house and pee in the corner of the back yard. you ask me not to do it ever again..............then i go inside and pee in the corner of the living room....

    will you ever allow me back over? 

    I sure do agree with this. Just hope for maximum possible moderator's correctness.

  3. But looking the pictures it seemed to me that cab was not brand new but freshened up or rebuild. Weld seam along the rear edge of the floor panel looks like rust goes from there.

  4. On 11/8/2020 at 3:58 AM, KDog Trucking said:

    And a group of members butt heads with administration and certain moderator about her being back again. Administration won the argument, Barry banned her and all them. 

    TJC knows who, but I think JHancock, David Wild, Heavy Gunner, Mack Technician, Dutch Digger and TS7 all got axed. Maybe a few more? 

    Yup. I can belive if ban put on a person there was some strong reason to do so. But banning a whole lot of long time and active members with multy thousand of posts and multi thousand likes seems as a go over a really sharp corner.  Also some forums have a Ban List thread where every banned person is announced with a reason and a term of ban. And this last point is also the last point in my post since I think a member shouldn't be banned forever in a case such an action applied to him for the first time. We are all people and individuals have a tendency to cool off and figure the matters better.

    • Like 2
  5. Once again many thanks for the tips and suggestions. Actually I hate taking any assembly apart having no spares handy or at least supply facilities marketed on having the potentially needed ones in stock. In this particular case the truck is not in the main focus of my attention at the moment. I didn't plan to invest sufficient resources in it and hoped for an easy fix to get it running using an extra clutch set I took off an old E6 engine in the past. The pressure plate looked reusable by its look so I cleaned its working surface with sandpaper and wirebrushed the housing. Also I greased the bearing and hoped for no other issures. The presence and need of working with the set screw appeared as a surprize to me since I about never dealt with truck clutches before. Only car's ones and of pushing types. I googled 14 inch clutches locally and found out the stock offers were for only unknown brands the most probably China made stuff and cost of nearly US 1K what seemed of no sence. Their housings were stamped steel not cast iron as Eaton clutches are. I also found suitable clutch sets in PAI catalog, reasonably priced and seemed of the original style. I can order such one by a local PAI dealer but it usually takes 2-3 months to purchase. The shipping costs are cheap by this way but you have to pay by the waiting time. So all in all I'm still in the dilema. Seems like the way to go is removing the tranny and investigation. But currently I have the truck on its wheels and if I remove the gearbox I'd have its engine supported by a bottle jack and too probaly for a while. Doesn't look like a nice option being waiting first snow the other day by weather forecast.

  6. Yup. And the cab's LH front corner duplicates Superliner cowl, has square shape. RH corner is the same as a classis R-model has with depressing for air cleaner and its tube.

    • Like 2
  7. 21 hours ago, Mark T said:

    That clutch is shot.  The pressure plate may even be shot as well ( like already adjusted to it's limit )  I once helped a guy who replaced a clutch cable in one of those and installed it backwards. The original Mack one goes farther from one direction than from the other. As far as the clutch in the truck, the space between the bearing and the clutch brake  should be around a half inch and not much more. this is done by turning the adjustment on the pressure plate and to do that requires holding the clutch disengaged so it will turn.  Be aware the more it's adjusted (turned) the less holding force the clutch will have.  Looks like maybe time to see about finding a different clutch assembly 

    Two points got my attention. First I'm currently not able to disengage the clutch since the bearing has no travel or about no travel. Second I'm not sure I'd be able to find a different clutch assembly locally soon enough. Of what I learned something similar was used in 9400 and 9800 IH trucks which are common overhere and many parts are usually stocked for them.

  8. 6 hours ago, fjh said:

    So here's  the procedure ! First get the clutch bake set with the lever adjustments on the OUTSIDE of the trans ! Get the clutch brake set so it operates 1/2 inch before the pedal hits the floor! now go to the winder on the clutch housing wind the inner ring( clockwise to bring the bearing closer counter clock wise to widen the gap) till you achieve 9/16 - 1/2 space between the clutch brake And the throw out bearing !  When your done confirm the clutch brake is still operating! You should now have approx inch and one half free pedal at the pedal end ! Note the cruise liner had issues with the cable mount on the floor ,make sure the floor is not flexing when your stepping on the clutch!

    Thanks, got the sequence. Just never wound the winder. The particular Cruiseliner kept its stock cable until I stepped onto the clutch pedal for the first time. And broke its last two threads when I did that. So I bought 3 meters of common steel rope with a couple of clamps and made a "new" one. The floor still conteins a sleeve the cable goes through. But looks like it doesn't affect its operation by any mean.

  9. 21 hours ago, Mark T said:

    You need to find yourself an old 2 inch input shaft that's in good shape to use for lining up those clutches.  It's much easier than using the transmission.  I still think a disc could be backwards.  I'd feel really bad if you took it apart again only to find you had them in correct though.

    I'm going to take apart one of T2090 trannies to restore it for my R-model. So expexting to have one input shaft laying on a shelf. It seemed more difficult to me to install transmission with the clutch on the flywheel since more travel is required. But reading the literature I figured it's easier to fit a tranny with 15.5" clutch than a 14" setup since the intermediate plate gets its pins into the pressure plate on 15.5" and you don't need to correspond the notches and pins at the stationary flywheel. So having right equipment to fit a tranny seems more reasonable to first assemble 14" clutch onto flywheel indeed.

    The traces on the pressure plate were made by collapsed friction discs. Those were the original matter of the issue and actually the reason the truck was sold and found place at my yard :) It looked like the pressure plate survived but now I'm not almost sure on that. The discs position bothers me either no doubt. I well remember I checked the scripts on them and gave parts to my helper step by step while he put them in place. So all should be fitted right. But you have to doubt on every thing during investigation.


  10. On 11/4/2020 at 10:58 PM, mrsmackpaul said:

    I would try adjusting the clutch by the bolt in the pressure plate to bring the throw out bearing back towards the motor end and off the clutch brake until the measurement is 3/4 of a inch between the throw out bearing and the clutch brake 


    I think you will find it will work then 




    Hmm.. Pretty interesting suggestion. Sure makes sence. I just can't belive the clutch could be off the adjustment that much to make the bearing almost against the brake disc.

    Another point I still can't understand what particulary to do for the adjustment. Should I turn loose that big bolt (or nut?) at the pressure plate and than try to turn the part the bolt is in? Is that a big still ring inside the clutch or anything else? Does it usually turn free or supposed to get stuck by age? Just never did it before and never investigated the design.

  11. No, I didn't get that far along the job to achive ajustment :)

    Layed on a (wet and cold) ground under the truck today and got a look into the bottom inspection opening. What I saw was the thoughout bearing pulled off the pressure plate all its way down to against the clutch brake. There's a bumper plate at the front of the tranny housing suspended by 4 coil springs and it looked like the bearing already pressed the brake disk to it. And it was not forced rearwards by the yoke, more looked like something behind the pressure plate (inside the clutch pack) pressed the bearing out.

    Currently I'm on a scale between pulling off the tranny and rest the truck as it is till the next spring. It's parked not the way I like but the temp is a few degrees above the freezing point with light rains.

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