BottleHauler84

@Freightrain im thinking the one you're after is eaton fuller # K-3675. That is the cast iron version with halo (forced lube) and nodal mounts for a Mack and K-3674 is the aluminum version and expensive. Also, the crossshaft is below center which are usually harder to find. K-3672 is drilled for both above and below centerline, so it should would too if need be.

Unfortunately no. That case is drilled for the halo so the best thing to do is find a bell housing that has the halo groove cut into it.You can use a halo cut bell housing on a non halo transmission, but obviously you cant do the opposite The last cast iron one i bought for a rtlo18918b with a halo cut nodal mount bell housing was around $400. Also, if you ho from aluminum to cast iron or vice versa, you need to change out the mounting bolts because they are a different length.

Yes sir. I use the fish scale method when I rebuild eaton and rockwell diffs, so luckily im familiar with that method. I appreciate the info on the bearing preload specs.

@Joey Mack i ended up buying the Kent Moore wrench shown in the Mack service manual. Do you use the same spanner wrench for adjusting the Bullgear bearing adjustment or do you have another way or tool you use? Just curious on your thoughts or methods and tools you use when you build them.

Hey what about William Wallace???? LOL

I converted a couple of my Macks over from Budd wheels to hub pilot. I bought my stuff from Donny at Global Truck Traders. (603)239-7008 I have not talked to Donny in several years, so I don't know what his inventory looks like at the moment, but its worth a call. Good luck.

I have an 88 R model also and a CH. I do have a few old parts trucks, but I dont really count those. I love old Macks up to early 2000s, 2002 or so, but there's just something about those old cabover Mack that I really really enjoy. I love the cruiseliner but the MH Ultraliner is my favorite Mack. Growing up around a few of them i think is what done it. Both of my MH cabovers are projects, but still working trucks if needed.

I wish! Truck is in real good shape, needs a bumper because the chrome peeled, paint is getting chips and needs to be repainted, but frame and everything is solid. Very clean. Interior is black level III and in really good shape. E6 350 Mack and dynatard, Mack T2010 transmission, 38k 4:42 Mack rears on Neway. 196" wheelbase. I was lucky to get it from a friend of mine thats had it forever.

This is one of my other MH Macks. Its actually getting stretched and a set of 44k on Mack/ HAS Hendrickson air ride. Its a 93 with a E7 V-MAC and eaton 13 speed. Real solid truck and hard to find E7 electronic in it.

She's getting ready to go in the shop for the winter and start getting some love. Its been on the farm most of its life, so its time for some repair, new fresh parts and upgrading.

I've personally not built any mack rears from a bare case to a full rebuild, but its something I want to do. I've made repairs, but never been fully i to a mack diff.Gear work is my favorite kind and I actually enjoy transmissions and gearboxes. I have 4 Macks, including this survivor I saved the other day.

I just enjoy all the knowledge and ideas here. Talking with the machine shop friend a little bit ago, he has some 5/8 and 3/4 plate left over from a job i can get really reasonable. We are going to start fabing one of these plates up next week.

Thats what I gathered thus far. A big Thanks to you guys here explaining the purpose of the tool I now understand exactly what its purpose is. I have rebuilt eaton and rockwell diffs quite a bit and this procedure isn't something you have to do obviously being a hypoid setup with them, so this concept was a bit foreign to me. Now that I get it, as Joey suggested, one of the most important aspects of this tool will be the height of the dowel pins or support pins and being perfect even. Im definitely going to get some measurements off some empty axle housings I have and check measurements off of a couple 202 and 92 series carriers i have sitting around.

I dont know why I said 4 "bearing caps"....that was stupid. I ment to say the 2 bearing caps, with the 4 ears just as you said that. Thanks for correcting me.

@fjh does that tool fit snug around all 4 bearing caps once you put it on them or is there some clearance for it to move a little bit? The only info I have about it is just the pictures of it in the manual. Unfortunately, I've never gotten to use one to see it up close. Just curious.