Geoff Weeks

4 hours ago, other dog said:

Thanks, I was on old Internationaltrucks.com, they have a lot of parts too. Never looked for gearshift knobs, but I don't particularly like the one that's on it. 

My shift pattern is like this-

The seller said it had an overdrive transmission, but I don't think it is. I looked at brochures and spec. sheets for this particular model truck and it did not even list any overdrive transmission as an option. I know that doesn't mean it hasn't been swapped out sometime in the last 60 years, but I don't think it has.

 

Dash shift diagram say no, direct in 5th. Clark 5 speed I think. I had the same trans in a Fleetstar.

You are correct, and with the close up I can see where what I thought I saw was not what was. I apologize!  If installed backwards it is very dangerous which is why I made an issue of it.

 Thank you for the close up to clear that up.

I still think the off-set is going to cause a problem, with the king-pin inboard of the inner edge of the tire.  That spider/hub was not made for floats, but at least it isn't on backwards.

 You can mount one backwards, but it will not seat on the spokes correctly and the wedges will be way out on the stud if the stud is long enough. Broken studs and a lost wheel is the result, which is why I made an issue of it.

 I've seen some crazy stuff done, and I was worried this was one. Again I admit it isn't what I thought and I apologize.

Here is a Goodyear 20" rim assembled "backwards" on a steer hub, as you can see it will go on, and the wedges even go over the studs.  I hope you can understand my concern was about safety.

31 minutes ago, 68-f-model said:

Respectfully  Mr. Geoff Weeks please stop with the guessing. 

 

I am not guessing, I could be mistaken about the front rims being rear, the picture isn't a close up enough to tell100% however, the fronts are clearly mounted to the hub backwards, placing the center of the tire outboard of the outer bearing. Look at the pictures of the other trucks you posted with floats on the front. in every case the center of the tire is not outboard of the outer bearing. 

 I never said the rims weren't DOT approved, what I am saying is as set up on the steer they are wrong. On a proper set-up the centerline on the tire is between the two wheel bearing on the hub, this puts the center of rotation on the kingpin close to the center point of the tire (at the center point on center point type steering) 

 To me the fronts look to have a double mount flange but I could be seeing the drop-center, the pic is taken from too far away.

Look at all the pictures you posted of other trucks with floats then look at yours, they are not the same. In all cases in the above post the drop center gutter is on the INSIDE, yours in on the OUTSIDE.

Hard for my old eye to see, but it looks like the RRO may be mounted on the correct rim for the front, possibly the RFO also. 

 What a mess, I wouldn't move it on its own without getting proper rims and tires in the correct positions.

 Front floats go on 12.25 or there about front spoke rims. rears can either be Super Singles, on the correct SS rims or duals, on 9" or narrower rims.

 With the rims that are now on the front, the C/L of the tire is OUTBOARD of the outer wheel bearing, which will make near impossible to steer, and will overload the outer bearing.

On 5/5/2024 at 9:52 PM, BOBWhite said:

I wonder what size those front tires are, they look kinda goofy to me. Odd the voltage regulator cover is missing too.

Very clean for the northeast! Hope someone here gets it.

They look goofy because he has the wrong rims on the front, those are "super single" rims for the rear, Spoke wheels that use wide base (wider than 9") take different rims for front and rear. 

 On wide base rims for the front, they have a single flange with the offest to keep the tire in the proper position over the bearing/spindle.

 Wide base for rear have a double flange with a space between them (to be like the spacer band) and center the wheel over the hub.

 He has rear, on the front, which moves the tire out, and not only looks goofy but isn't safe.

Here is a pic of the correct front style wide base rim for spoke wheels.

Those are popular here also. Mostly all I'll be towing are the black trailer in the picture and a tow dolly for cars, both require about the same ball height and size so a single fixed drop works for me and about 1/4 the price of an adjustable drop.

 Only thing I own with a Lunette ring is a 1940 generator on wagon type trailer with steel wheels. I will not be pulling that on the road!  Don't know how much it weighs, has a 525 CID Buda and is 62.5 Kva. Neat running gear, sprung on both axles, wheels are spoke with steel, I don't know if it was a bomb cart that was converted, or what.

I realized I never posted the finished product. 8" drop, could have gone another inch. Next drop from 8" would have been 10".

 You can see where the original ball mount was, far too high for most things I'll pull. I moved on to the carb, been rebuilding Zeniths and Carters. Made a big difference, starts an runs a whole lot better.

8 hours ago, mowerman said:

Might’ve started up that way, but by 1970 they were all over the turnpikes up and down with freight trucks mostly at night. They certainly made a big splash for quite a while. Thanks for that…. Bob

Put in a few 500 mile days in my 6-71 powered Fleetstar, yeah I know they didn't only get used in the city

tire | FMCSA (dot.gov)

Here it is in print

Re gooved tires are prohibited, re capped are not. Re-cap are prohibited on passenger (bus) steer. It is in the federal (Green book) register.

 Smaller truck tires (lighter) up to a certain ply rating/ weight limit may be re-grooved, it the tire says "regooveable" .

I went through the same CVSA course the truck-cops did, a few were in my class. That was in the book.

Long time ago on a different forum, someone was looking to mount a rack and pinion gear on an axle, he was told it was illegal to mount it there (not by me) and I took the man's word that it was not kosher to do so, as I had never seen it done in any road vehicle. 

 It adds a lot of Monkey motion to the steering shaft, with the axle going up and down on the suspension and also moves it down lower to the road where it could get smacked. 

 For those reasons I never questioned the "illegal" statement that was made, I should have because of the t nonsense I have heard as "illegal" in my time. 

Everything I worked on (Macks included) had the steering box on the frame. 

Too many spout the "Illegal" claim but can't back it up. Like recaps on the steer of a truck, no, it is not illegal. It isn't often done, but it isn't illegal.

 My bad, for not researching it.

Well, that is something I have not seen before, so I learned something new! I can see a whole bunch of reasons why it never was popular, but I believe you it was done.

48 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

I'm really impressed with the shop it's in. taking a far out in space idea, would the second radiator cap be used for hooking aux water supply to keep gas engine from over heat during extended fire call ?? I don't think so either . enlarged the picture ; can't understand reasoning.

Not so far out. I have heard and read about, heat exchangers and even running the pump water through the engine to keep it cool on long fires. If that truck at one time had some sort of heat exchanger, someone may have fitted a filler cap (neck) on an old hose connection when that equipment was removed.

My Fleetstar's of that vintage have S cam rear and wedge front.  With it pulling badly on brake application, it could be an S cam out of adjustment by a lot, or it could be a frozen wedge, which happens more often.

 That isn't a low air switch in the lower line, it is a hyd brake light switch! 

 I know it is new and you want to drive it, but please have someone who knows a bit about trucks come by and give you a hand. You get stopped on the road, and the result is likely a tow bill and a ticket.

A single rear with no spring brakes and a 2 speed axle (or had one at one time)? So must have a driveshaft E brake? 

 I worked on a school bus that was set up that way (air brakes but only driveshaft E brake), but that would be fairly rare.  Most air braked trucks are required to have spring brakes, I thought the school bus was an exception (didn't want a school bus stuck on RR tracks because of an air problem).

 Early stuff, yeah they had air brakes and either drum or disk driveshaft brakes.

I know most had to have spring brakes starting back in the 50's or 60's. 

You listed your location as USA, which isn't helpful, if you were near me, I'd drop by and at least get you started on what needs to be done. As it stands I have no idea what part of the country you are in.

I know nothing about the truck model in question, but have NEVER seen a steering box mounted to the axle on any heavy truck.  So I can't see that being safe or legal around here.

Radiators & Cooling Systems: Truck, Semi, Heavy Equipment, RV | RSH – Radiator Supply House

19 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Red Dot ??

I don't think they mfg radiators.

L&M Radiator Hibbing, MN

Mesabi.com

If the truck is "down" without a new radiator, it seam to me that the "where to get a core to rebuild" should be moot. 

 Northern

Detroit rad 

 come to mind,

 there were others that catered to the O/P?

 You want someone who will not buy a pre-made core and just bolt or solder the end caps on, you want someone who can do the whole job. It may cost a fair bit in shipping, but that is what it is.

 I am trying to remember the big names in radiators for trucks, but my memory isn't what it used to be. When I found the shop I used, I never tried to do the job myself again. They weren't quick or cheap, but were good and stood behind their work. I heard they closed a few years ago.

 Worse case you could look into the mfg that supply construction/ off road equipment, but their prices aren't going to be as cheap as automotive.

On 5/15/2024 at 11:30 AM, RS Disposal said:

My truck being older, 1979, and with a brass radiator, my local "go to shop" for heavy truck radiators says he has been able to locate a viable core to rebuild my radiator.  He said if he did locate one it would be pretty spendy and recommended I just replace while radiator. As you can see from the pic mine is pretty dead.  My question is, I was able to pickup a Mack heavy duty truck radiator where the core dimensions are the same as the one out of the truck.  Mounts different, but I have no problem fabricating a new mounting bracket.  This radiator does not have the cap in the upper tank.  Should I put an inline radiator fill in the upper hose or should I add an auxiliary overflow tank the way my other two trucks are.  This truck never had one.

My shop has since closed, but they would have "custom made" cores made for my trucks. Yeah several years ago (may be 10) I spent $2150 on a radiator and $1800 on the out of frame rebuild kit! Yep, more in the radiator than the engine. 

Truck wouldn't be useful without both being done.  Nothing like pulling the Big Horn mts, wide open fully loaded 45 min @ 25 mph and not having to worry about the engine or radiator.

 My shop would take the tanks off, cut the tubes at the end-plate and send it out with the width needed, the core would come back and they would assemble. Also allowed for more tubes (with new end plates) or other changes.

 All it takes is money!😁

The Zenith I'm working on now is nice in the throttle shaft, the accelerator pump check and discharge nozzle were shot/plugged and that will cause some running issues!

 The Carter BBR next up will require a shaft bushing and may be some build up on the shaft and re machining back to std size.

Back at the time I was wrench turning in a automotive shop, I would take a "junkyard" carb over a "rebuild" from some of the major commercial rebuilders. I've seen some real junk. 

 I had one where I could get a brand new throttle body, but for most I would get one from a yard and overhaul it.

Any extra time spent setting up the overbore on the throttle body will pay dividends, just like any machining operation, sloppy set up ruins a good machine job.

Bushing are no problem internet search show all sizes with reamers included.

 Trick is being careful on the set up so you keep the shaft centered where it was to begin with. 

 Get the alignment wrong and the throttles will not close properly, or the ports will be in the wrong area to function properly.

My BBR is going to need throttle shaft work if I am going to reuse it., might get another Zenith on it until I get around to machining the throttle shaft bore and sleeving it.

Hey Jo-Jo does your K-7 have a Zenith, Carter or Holley? I'm going through mine now and got the IHC "Shop talks" on the Zenith and Carter as they show the breakdown of the carb and sequence better than the shop manual. Also list the factory tools, but finding a set might be hard.

Shop talks are IHC's training manuals that go into more depth, kind of like what you get at a factory school today.

 Anyway, I could try and scan them if you want one.

 I think at least one of my Carter's is going to need a sleeve in the throttle shaft bore.

51 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Some old carbs wear around the throttle plate rod that goes through the base plate. Makes vacuum leaks there's no fixing 

Yeah, those can be fixed but not with just a gasket kit. I'm looking at an old Zenith and may be a Carter that need that fixed.