ThaddeusW

Fantastic! Good to see old iron still working, in Europe!

As you all know, I also bought a ~1948 Clark Y40 forklift with an F-124 continental gas engine. The distributor is shot so I bought a new Pertronix electronic (no points) distributor. The problem is that the old F-124 needs two conti parts to adapt the new distributor to the engine. I could make on myself but I just don't have the time or resources at the moment. Anyone know a good reputable conti parts dealer that stocks parts for the old F-124's?

Congrats Trent!

What interests me more is what is on the back. Those two pillars appear to latch onto something OR they are very stubby winch booms. I bet its a custom wrecker, maybe it was used for tunnel work. The Holland Tunnel opened in 1927 and the Queens-Midtown in 1940 and the Lincoln Tunnel in 1937. So the truck could very well be an early tunnel wrecker or test truck.

Plus the push bumper is a sure sign of it being a wrecker.

For you Thad.

Thank you! I have to go and find those brochures now. I have always wanted as full collection of the M series brochures, electronic or dead tree version.

ol' bill is still alive. talked to him a while back but last i knew he won't part with anything. he had just as many trucks at his house

I cant understand (but at the same time I can) why people hoard trucks and don't let them go. Next thing you know they pass away and their family calls in the local scrapper to clean up the property to sell. All the while he could have sold the trucks saving them instead of sending a whole slew of rare iron to the scrap heap in one shot. I do however understand the mentality of not wanting to part with something. You work hard to acquire something and its yours. However, I would still rather sell than let it rust away. Id take that LJSWX and B80-something.

That's not very good for me, since I always wanted to build a 1:87 scale model of the M100. But without any spec this is a bit problematic.

Thomas,

One M100 is in New York city near where I live. It hasnt moved in some time and you can see it from Google maps/earth.

http://maps.google.com/?ll=40.593031,-73.805047&spn=0.001017,0.002064&hnear=90+Carolyn+Blvd,+East+Farmingdale,+Suffolk,+New+York+11735&t=h&z=20&vpsrc=6

Should have looked at this sooner

NICE! Thanks for that. Where did you get that brochure and is there any more to it?

I found this video on YouTube by chance. It was taken 14 years ago and there are some great Mack's in there, B's and LJ's including an LJSWX and a B80-something.

Anyone know who owned these trucks or what happened to them? It was taken off route 22 in what the poster thinks is Berlin, NY.

I new to forum is there a minium about of post's needed to post pictures

Welcome to the forum Bob. I am very familiar with your gallery on Hank's site. Very impressive collection of Pacific photos, the best are the factory photos!

Anyone interested should go here: http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/bob_dingsdale.htm

It is an M15SXC

Dave

That is what I first thought but I doubt it is. I have seen an M15 brochure as well as pictures and it came with 80k 8 spoke rears on solid walking beam along with a 6 spoke 23k front axle. This truck has Mack Planidrive axles with the old dual camel back suspension that was used on the LR trucks. The 8 spoke front axle (either 23 or 26k, not sure) is also typical of the LR but also found on smaller single axle M models (M25).

Found these two gems. RD800, E9-500, 65 rears, triple frame with a long wheel base.

http://www.truckpape...x?OHID=3269015

Id love to see this beast with a lift axle pulling a 100 ton low-boy fully loaded. Imagine the sweet music she'd be making.

I don't know what this is. Wrong model number but its sure is an interesting truck. It looks like a cross between an LR and an M series. Front and rear axles are the same setup as an LR and the cab/hood is off an M series. For the year I think it could be factory, perhaps an early M series or one of a kind custom build. That or its a rebuilt LR.

Lots of good pictures for a model builder.

http://www.truckpape...x?OHID=3111273

Get rid of California, (the state) and 1/2 of the stupid ones can go with them.

Rob

Amen to that. California is responsible for all of the lame brain EPA laws that thrashed the truck and diesel manufacturing for the last decade.

Looks like Mack is getting an MP10 rated to 685HP Down Under. Its putting out 2300 ft-lbs! SCR without DPF allows for a lot more HP but then again that is for Euro 5 emissions. EPA2010 is actually a lot cleaner than Euro 5. There are Euro 5 engines in Europe putting out in excess of 700HP, Volvo having the highest, 750HP!

http://www.macktrucks.com.au/default.aspx?pageid=5718 (Click the "NEW! View MP10 Engine Specifications For This Model – Coming Soon" link toward the bottom.)

Too bad the Mack Australia web site does not have any brochures on their trucks, I would like to see what other options they offer.

Fantastic looking truck. Welcome and have fun with the restoration.

Very well put Paul! i stopped doing the car show "thing" for many of the reasons you stated,it seems it was more about who had the original GM tower radiator hose clamps on their $50.000 trailer queen camaro then having fun!old truck shows are much different! you can "bring what ya'brung" and everone still treats you the same,be it a rusty B-model,or a complete factory restoration. Its been my experience that old truck owners are much more fourthcoming with" who did what"and seem to be more willing to help someone just starting out,ours is supposed to be a fun hobby,and i see a lot more good then bad at ATHS etc. functions,and they seem to be much more family oriented than similar events for other forms of transpotation,just my opinion anyway.................Mark

Trucks aint trailer queens and truck owners/drivers know that. They know that trucks are more than a vehicle, they are a tool and tools get dirty. Whether the truck is factory mint restored or a rust bucket that just made it to the show, it brings a smile to their face because under all the paint is a hard working machine that at one point earned a living for someone.

Lets face it cars really aren't tools, they are transportation and a status symbol. And that is what causes the over zealous car crowd to be so uptight, status. Trucks aren't status symbols, there isn't a million dollar Italian sports dump that goes 0-60 in 3 seconds. They are hard working machines that drivers spend half their life inside of and that is a bonding experience. That truck put a roof over their head and food on the table. The fancy car just sat in a garage and the owner tooled around in it to get looks from the ladies, big whoop.

Shoot, glad to hear your okay Rob. Shame your truck was wrecked.

Heat will help but not the concentrated flame front provided by a cutting torch. I would use a "rosebud" type tip to be more even. Don't heat the drum much past a very dull red and keep the flame moving. When the complete drum is too warm to touch, tap around the inside perimeter on the outside of the drum to allow the frequency of vibration break the sucker loose. If you have a large three jaw puller this would make it easy.

The hub and drum are an assembly until you have it on the floor. Then you can separate the pair.

Rob

Hmmm, dont have a torch that big. I do have a pretty hefty propane torch though, I will give that a try.

Dont forget Allied electronics or Newark electronics. They both carry an extensive inventory of electrical and electronic parts.

Does it have juice brakes? Did you try releasing pressure from the bleeding screw on the wheel cylinder? Might not really help, but there again? How's the emergency brake? It might be too tight also?

Likely just rusted together,but if you can unload any pressure on the pads it might release??? Just a thought.

Yep hydraulic brakes. The left front wheel turns just fine. The parking brake acts on the very short drive shaft, not a drum parking brake but something like it.

So I got to working on my forklift yesterday (old Clark Y40, supposedly 1948) . One of the front driving wheels is frozen solid to the brake shoes. I yanked the wheel and tried to remove the brake drum. Turns out, the hub and drum appear to be one piece. I pulled the axle shaft, got a long 8 foot heavy pipe on one of the studs and tried to pry the hub/drum to no avail. I bent the pipe and almost damaged the thread on the stud.

What is the best way to free a stuck brake drum? I tried beating the drum with a drilling hammer, didn't free nothing. I don't want to hit it too hard as I fear I may crack the drum. Would heat help?

Getting close to the deadline. I wish someone would save it.

Is that your truck?

315's will not get you there they are only good for about 14600 or so. 385's might but 425's will but they are 22.5 rims.

Certain 315/80R22.5's are rated to 10,000 per tire in single applications. Most 315/80's will also work on a 18,000 axle as they can support 9000+ in single applications. In dual applications they are suited for tandems up to 70,000! They are very common in Europe for vocational work.

BUT they aren't floats. Your better off with floats as they afford you better flotation on soft ground (sand, pea gravel, mud etc.)