Joey Mack

its real oil, I just bought 2 cases,  you can also use anti seize if you get the oil

When my wife and I worked together at a Mack service dealer, sometimes she would help me. She has done a couple sets of cam bushings with me, during an in-frame. Then Top Brass said that she cant do that anymore, it makes the other guys look bad..  Oh well, it was kinda cool to have my wife help me.. 

The 15 codes is the max limit for that system.  It will always have them as long as its deleted, from what i have learned in the shop and here... Volvo has your truck by the Peanuts...

ok, but you may only have the one that you know of,  the other is easy to see if its there or not,  if you pull a wire off the pedal switch do the lights go out?  if you put a new air switch in that is 'Normally Closed' the brake lights will stay on all the time and go out when air pressure comes up to full. 

the brake light switch is on the firewall under the hood at the rear valve cover..  It is ''Hot'' all the time, key on or off..  or on the treadle valve. 

I guess he could hook a jumper cable to neg. On the batteries and then on the frame.. simple Free test..  tough to diagnose from 600 miles away..

FJH? What about the fused link in the battery box?

M Drive transmission? P.T.O. ? Any fault codes ? 

It is definitely an ASET-C....

its my bed time,,  nite nte Mech and Rubber Duck...  jojo

Nice Save !! 

stainless steel

what is the topic??  i forgot..

Mech,  there is a sensor on the steering shaft that measures rotation of the steering wheel as well as 'yaw' or lean I guess, and if a driver,,,  sorry Human robot goes into a curve too fast it will apply the brakes on individual axles to help ''Right'' the truck so that it doesnt roll over..  Probably should have told to to get a bucket to puke in before I wrote this B.S. real stuff..  

whats with all the fault codes??  how is it still running good?? 

Boeing whistleblower #2 died fron an ''Infection''  The first one ''Killed himself''..  What next?? 

the one wuth the red boot hose that has the 'S' shape needs a cap welded to that end..to plug off the flow.. 

the one going over the top withe the 2 piece clamp is the one im talking about..  

the telephone pipe is the one with the bellows made in it, at the EGR cooler..  the curvy pipe fromt the EGR cooler to the top of the intake snorkle is the one that needs a welded plug. 

dont take the telephone pipe off.. it has orings that will break

the stainless steel pipe that goes over the rear valve cover..it has 2 probes in it..  weld a plug dont put anything that can come loose and get sucked into the intake..

ok,, the pipe with the 2 sensors in it going over the valve cover feeds exhaust into the intake, I gues you nees to weld a cap on the EGR cooler end to stop exh flow into the intake..  

is the crossover pipe plugged?  

is exhaust still being recuculated?