Joey Mack

Happy Birthday to stutz 712,...  🎂🥳

As far as play goes, i seem to remember something about, marking the floor at the edge of the tire, then push the tire at 12 'Oclock and mark the floor again.  Measure the distance. 22.5 tire is 1/4" or less... 24.5 tire is 1/2" or less.  Maybe someone else can fix my memory.👍

Amen.. 

Check all of the gray wires at the connections, above the pedals and below the fuse panel in the dash, and out on the firewall in the engine bay..  they are the grounds.. Volvo got this right by making the grounds one color.. 

I was taught the same thing.  Mack would only cut the journal that needed cutting. To this day i look at all the counter weights, and bearing numbers.. i dont assume. And Mack bearing kits are not always packed in the correct order.  I was blessed to have a cranky old Man take me under his wing... Earl Harnden was his name.   Maine Mack, 299 Warren ave. ,Portland M.E.   

I had to post his name.. He went home a couple years ago..  

fjh,, i thank you for the respect.  I read this over again. No magic bullet. Was wondering if the o- rings off the turbo to the CAC have failed. They will squeal or scream when boost leaks out.. 

Pull the right seat, un hook the throttle hiem joint, there is a ring of bolts around the pan, 1/2" or 13mm. You will pull the shifter back into a gear, and lift the pan and twist it out..  if this is new to you, it will seem cumbersome, but it will come out.  The throttle pedal stays on the pan.  Of you still have the heel plate for the pedal, the little screws will likely fight you.  This is a good time to drill them out and get new speed nuts and screws..  

Was that engine built with 2 pc pistons originally? Just curious, and the year of the engine as well.  Lookin good sir

He will run for president in '28

Yes. 

The 2 probes in the x-over tube are calibrated to each other, thats why they are spot welded in place.. 

If it turns out to be the sliding clutch. You dont have to take the whole tranny apart. It can be done through the input shaft hole

Yep.  Gotcha fjh.  Was thinkin about a broken wire .. all good, and i am posting on 2 of his threads, so i may get them mixed up too. 🤔

I dont remember, i think it has 3 wires. 

Have you looked at the wires to the boost sensor in the intake manifold?  fjh, makes some good points .

Well, i dont know of an adjustment. Unfortunately you will need to pull the main floor pan to get the top cover off to inspect the forks, and rails , and look at the clutching teeth on the 4th-5th sliding clutch. Is this a twin stick or do you have a blue range button on the shift knob (T-2070)? Or just a straight 5 spd.?

Hmm.  Programming issue ?  I assume its dumping boost when you need Boost

Sorry bud.  Its almost like throwing high dollar parts at it but without a code reader, and based in the steps you have taken, it may be correct. Did you check the VGT actuator for free movement ? The pin in the yoke can seize.. just remove it and buff it clean, reinstall with anti sieze..  

Its looking like the celenoid. How do the wires look to the brain for it ? Its behind the EECU. If i remember right.. 

I assume you cleared the line to the turbo ?  That braided line can break apart internally and block the flow

I never tried to but , why not try it.  Im glad you are familiar with the VGT filter. So with the key on and air above 90, you dont get air leaving the celenoid? 

Ok...  There is a small brass knob on the treadle valve assembly. Has someone shut it off? If its on, look straight down for the VGT air filter. Its a spin on, small like a mower oil filter. Remove the filter and see if air goes through it, there are small air lines that need to be checked down there.  You should see 1/4" lines running straight down the center of the left side of the engine. There is also a celenoid with the filter.  Start simple first by getting air to come out of the line at the turbo. With the key on. Hook an air pump to the truck to keep pressure up.