67RModel

Something about this is strange. The second set of pictures the OP posted shows the engine has an over center hand clutch bolted to the fly wheel. I don't think this was installed in a truck. Possibly Mack had a contract with the government to build some stationary equipment. Certainly a puzzle.

Other than its a tandem axle Granite (CV713) not too much I think. One would have to give the last 6 of the VIN to the dealer would think and they could tell you what is in it. Most (maybe all) Granites came with the AI version of the ASET engine. Maybe you could get the AC version in a Granite I really don't know. Quickest way to tell is by the turbo. If it has a variable geometry actuator hanging off the side then its an AC. If it looks like a normal old turbo then its an AI.  Mack axles and transmissions are pretty easy to identify by eyesight. 

Whatever it is I like how the engineers knew it would have to be worked on at some point and took the care to design the exhaust manifold such that the injection pump is easy to access. Any pictures of the other side?

I'm pretty sure that is a Buda engine. You could get various versions of a Buda diesel in a Mack starting in the mid 1930s. I think they were anywhere from 212CID to 468CID. They used the Lanova style combustion chamber. Basically anything before the END519, which was Mack's first proprietary diesel, was a Buda engine. I think Allis Chalmers bought Buda in the 1950s

I'm pretty sure they you can get them in 4x4 too. Or maybe I'm thinking of a Mitsubishi Fuso, which is practically the same thing. Either way these trucks are rugged workhorses and very versatile. 

Call Watts Mack and talk to Barry. My buddy just did this swap on an 88 R model. Spoke hubs on 38k Mack rears and Budd front wheels all swapped over to hub pilot. All the parts were readily available and they told him everything he needed. I think he was able to reuse his existing bearings. 

Diamond Vehicle Solutions. T-Line Trucks.

https://www.truckinginfo.com/148961/t-line-trucks-offered-by-pennsylvania-builder

https://www.truckinginfo.com/129462/t-line-successor-to-diamond-t-plans-return-to-market

No other information found other than those links. I'm guessing they folded. Its almost impossible to imagine a company like that succeeding in today's market.....even 8 years go in 2015 (the most recent article). It sounded like glider kits were going to be the bulk of their business and that has been killed off by the EPA.

I guess it could be one of two things. Either the gauge is broken/sprung and the primary really is functioning normally or the one way check valve at the inlet of the primary system has failed in such a way to not allow air to flow into the primary system. Does the truck have a supply tank (wet tank) between the air dryer and the Primary / secondary reservoirs? Find the line that goes from the wet tank to the primary supply tank and trace to find the one way check valve. Does the low air alarm stay on constantly? If the compressor is pumping fine and the secondary system is filling up fine I don't know what else it could be other than the one way check valve on the primary side or a catastrophic air leak between the wet tank and primary supply tank you can't hear because the truck is running. Or a broken gauge.  

I was browsing Facebook Marketplace and saw this behemoth. Certainly a very strangely specd heavy hauler in near perfect condition. It says it was originally  a NYC Department of Sanitation rig. Maybe @NycHeavyIron knows its history. No affiliation to the listing. Just posting here for others to see.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1152117472375080/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

I sent you a PM

I know of another B67 Concave cab truck in the Western Virginia (Blacksburg) area that is for sale if you end up needing another one for body parts. My recollection is its in better shape than what you describe this one is in. Unless you know the condition of the engine as to why its not running $6500 is sky high. Even with a good running thermodyne 6500 is sky high even with the trailer. The trailer honestly has less than scrap value in my opinion. Even if someone is looking for a period correct fuel trailer its just not very valuable. There are lots of them around. Quite honestly without a title, unknown engine condition, and rotten cab and body panels that truck is scrap value as well. Probably about $900 - $1200 depending on weight. I'm guessing if you offer that you will get showed a gun to your face if he thinks its worth 6500. 😅

ASET engines were not really Mack's finest hour but still a decent mill given what was going on with emissions at the time. An AI is much more desirable than the AC (highway) version. If your used to old E6 and E7 mechanical engines you will probably be disappointed in how the engine operates. These engines have almost zero lugging ability below say 1300 rpm. Very weak down low. The 18 speed transmission should mitigate a lot of that problem for you. With an 8LL and loaded heavy you really have to wind them up to 2100 in order to catch the next gear high enough to keep accelerating. There are several real savvy Mack mechanics and service guys on here who have a lot of experience with the ASET engines. At 500k miles if it has been maintained well and not abused you probably still have another good couple of hundred thousand miles in her. I always like to show up at least an hour before I say I will to make sure they didn't already warm it up or ether it (a huge no no for these engines). Definitely pull the dipstick while its running and look for excessive blow by. Also make sure it has plenty of oil pressure. Honestly a 2006 is pushing 20 years old now. I would be more concerned about the condition of the double frame and rust jacking. If the truck spent all its life in the Western PA area then there is a good chance the frame is getting crusty. Look the chassis over real good for rust jacking and vertical cracks in the area from under the cab back to the lift axle. Roll offs tend to have a longer wheelbase a flex a lot in that area. If its a local truck try to figure out which company owned it. I would probably be able to tell you if the maintenance was kept up or not. I am local to that area. Good luck.

19 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Air shift is my favorite, Yeah, push the button down, while under load, let up or step briefly on the clutch and it down shifts. Vacuum is my 2nd with electric being last on the list.

I have the Marmon with air shift and two K-7's with vacuum.  Marmon has a 3406, the K-7's are 269 gassers.

 Like anything else, a little time in, it becomes second nature.

 Eaton held the patent of the planetary gearing in the 2 spds, Timken, Detroit, Rocknwell also made 2spd's but they were a double reduction units that either hung off the front or on top like a Mack. The advantage of Eaton's design is the whole thing fit inside the ring gear, the disadvatage was you were limited in what planetary ratios would fit inside the ring gear, so most often they are around .73 between low and high.

 Eaton, Dana and Spicer rears are all the same company (Dana Holdings Corp) now, Spicer sold of the trans business to TTC, because Roadranger was part of Eaton, so they would almost be a monopoly if both Eaton/Roadranger and Spicer heavy transmissions were one and the same company.

 My air shift are electric over air. Air solenoid controls air pressure to the two shift cyl on the axles. You could use an air knob on the stick, but you still need an electrical signal to the speedo or speedo adapter to keep the speedo reading correctly in both ranges. Since I needed an electric signal anyway, I went with the typical "red knob" on the side of the trans stick. Also I had a 15 speed trans that needed its own shift knob. I could have made it all air, but it would have been a rats nest of air line coming up the stick.

 I agree, they should be used more, and if I ever had the chance to spec a truck the way I like, they would be top on the list. Doing more of the reduction at the rear, means you don't need as heavy a driveline, like you do when most the reduction is done at the trans. Like a two or three stick, you can't be in a hurry, but once you learn them, they are great.

Good information to know. Is there any type of safeguard to prevent one axle from shifting if the other solenoid or air shift cylinder fails to operate? I could only imagine the carnage of only one diff shifted and the other did not. Have you ever know that to happen? 

2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

 I use mine in low for starting, than run up through the gears to top gear, than switch to high for the last two ratios. When climbing a hill it is the reverse, drop two, downshift and run the hill in direct-low. Keeps the heat out of the trans while pulling hard.

You seem to know a lot about two speed diffs. I always thought they should be much more prevalent than they are. I guess with modern engines and auto transmissions they have become almost non existent in new trucks. Are Eaton axles and Dana Spicer axles synonymous? You keep saying Eaton but DT series axles I thought were Dana Spicer. Did one buy the other and they are all the same now? How does downshifting the two speed work? Do you flip the switch while the trans is still in gear and then lift of the throttle to break torque then lay into the throttle to raise rpms until it engages? I drove many single axle 5+2 gasser dump trucks that were like that. They had Eaton "Double Duty" electric shift rear ends. It was actually a very handy setup. They were real clunky going from the high side to the low side (downshifting) the axle. I just wonder if air shift two speed tandems are the same.

Yea I'm not sure how the process worked when you bought a new truck then. I have seen a lot of service manual "sets" that were compiled by Mack for a truck or set of identically specd trucks. The set usually is in a single or group of 3 ring binders that contain many different service manuals for different systems / components depending on what the customer wanted I guess. A lot of times the front of the binder with the parts breakdowns would say for VIN "XXX" or VIN "XXX through "XXX" if it were for a set of identical trucks. There is literally a different service manual for every system or component on the truck. For instance there is one for the engine, injection system, driveshafts, wheel bearings, and wheels. They are all a different publication and not contained in one single book. Like Joey said at a minimum you probably just want to start with a basic E6 engine book, one for your transmission model, and maybe a wiring diagram to get started. 

Sometimes you just have to cut your losses and throw in the towel. The information you are searching for has been probably completely lost in with time. There may be someone out there that has old literature or whatever that shows something useful but trying to find that place or person probably isn't a valuable use of your time...no disrespect. They look pretty crusty and dry rotted anyway. No telling as old as they are if they would still meet the published specs if you were able to find them. Sorry but no way would I attempt to run those at 60 mph on a steer axle. Accident waiting to happen. 

I think its documented somewhere freshkills landfill is the largest manmade thing on the planet. 

Well in USA if the axle centers are 8' apart or greater they can be considered separate (for bridge formula). Since this truck was originally 18,000 front and 38,000 rears you should be fine saying its 41,000 gvw (18 + 23). However, in the federal bridge law the most you can have on any single axle is 20,000 so maybe just say the gvw is 38,000 (18+20). If the truck is a tractor its difficult to get 18,000 pounds on the steer axle since its set forward. If its a dump truck or something else you may be able to max out the steer depending on where the body is located in relation the rear axle center and how its loaded. 

9 hours ago, NycHeavyIron said:

Yes, it had only 2386 hours on it

Have any of the 100yd dump trucks survived?

I’ve only driven a few trucks with the blue button and never used it. I was always told its only practical purpose was so you could set the tractor brakes only and go back and adjust the trailer brakes without having to release everything and chock the wheels. I don’t know if there were others uses for them or not….

7 minutes ago, mowerman said:

we would be pissing ourselves at that price,,,,,when i left pittsburg last august after i was at watts show.... i filled my rental car before dropping it off and noticed gas prices were 1 dollar less than ours 

Yea and PA has the second highest gas prices next to Cali I think. They tax the heck out of it and our roads are still mediocre at best. Regular here in Pittsburgh is 3.75 and Diesel is 4.75

Might not be a bad idea given the fact you will never need it for any purpose. I have never had the dash apart in something with a blue valve. Is the valve all one unit with the red and yellow or is off by itself? If your back there gutting out unused stuff and cleaning up poor repairs and workmanship it might be worth it to just get rid of all the old valves and throw a new parking brake valve (yellow button) in it so you know it pops off at 60psi and be done with it. Sounds like you are going to have drivers in it and be using it for actual work. In this case you want everything to be in good condition and as basic as possible.....