JoeH

8 hours ago, Dave Pannabecker said:

Yeah it’s one of those deals where you could spend $ on a turbo and not repair it or maybe it would. Talked to a guy who had in framed quite a few E-techs, he said he has seen a few run with no performance issues while having excess blow by, with all piston rings broke except the top ring which caused it to burn oil but maintain enough compression to maintain decent performance.  This thing is really blowing oil out, to the point on a 150 mile trip it’s dripping off the front rear.  

That sounds like it's time for rings.  My trucks sit on people's driveways a lot, I can't be leaking that kind of oil.

Kinda hard to see, but I'd probably try and fudge some flex pipe in there... Sux to have such a new truck do this; hope it doesn't void any warranty by patching your own fix on there till mack figures their sht out.

How much pressure is the turbo putting to the intake manifold?

If the DOT is that fussy that they're nitpicking s little blowby residue then wash the engine once in a while. In the 11 years I've been driving I've been pulled over twice in my dad's fleet. They're usually just checking brake adjustments and obvious things. Once they mentioned oil leaks, commenting that it'll deteriorate rubber hoses. It was more of a helpful/instructional comment than an "I'm gonna slap a big fine on you" comment.

Miles? Hours?

I'd keep oil in it and keep on running it. 

You could run a compression test to see if the piston rings aren't sealing so we'll. Other culprit could be worn valve guides? 

You can convert over to 12v batteries; real easy. Just put the positives on same side and jump them together, and negatives same deal. Instead of POS to NEG jumper. You'll need to trace across left battery box to right to make sure you aren't doing anything goofy like wiring it up to 24v.  

I use either a strap style filter wrench or the right size metal band style. Both of mine hook up to ratchets, so with an extension you are all set.  Come in from between the spring and the frame with the wrench. Turning the wheel helps get a better attack angle. Filter goes out the bottom, it's a bit of a leap frog scenario to get it down and out below the spring.

8 hours ago, kscarbel2 said:

US missiles are for defending U.S. soil.

So why would the US defense secretary suggest placing missiles on the other side of the world from where most US soil is?

This is how wars get started.

Keeping a semi active military keeps soldiers trained, keeps research happening.  If we sat on our doorstep and waited for someone to attack us we might get soft before it happens.  I'm not saying I support one way or the other, but we are the strongest country in the world, and have been for a long time, and there's reasons for that.  Yes in ww I and ww ii we rose to the occasion from a passive state, but that might not always work.

Idle should be set to 650. Surging could be weak idle governor springs?

The 5 speeds top out at a direct 1:1 ratio I believe. Other transmissions have overdrive, sometimes in the range of .6:1  or .7:1.

3 hours ago, Stokes said:

Got a 1993 mack e7 400hp it turns over but will not crank please help 

It turns over but won't crank? Cranking and turning over are the same thing, only difference being one can be done by hand, the other by starter motor. Are you turning it over by hand to make sure it's not seized, but the starter motor won't turn it? Or is the starter motor cranking it but it won't start?

One scenario indicates an electrical problem with your starter motor circuitry, the other indicates that you aren't getting fuel. Have you pushed the stop knob in to allow the fuel pump to send fuel to the injectors? If it doesn't have a stop knob, you need to determine what the mechanism is that shuts fuel off on the pump and test it.

Puff limiter circuit? Mack uses boost pressure to dictate how much fuel to let the engine have so you aren't "rolling coal." Doesn't look like the normal position for the puff limiter though, that's typically a slave cylinder on the front of the fuel pump I think? Someone with more knowledge ought to pipe in soon...

4 hours ago, Vision 618 said:

Ok. Thank you.  I found online where you can download the manuals for free.  I just needed the 5-106. Mutch appreciated!

The guys here are a huge resource, but for doing detail work you have to have the book. You need to know torque settings and step by step procedures. 

Yep; a little supervision from my dad.  (helps to have someone help pour paint for refills) 

I like to have the cab stripped down as much as possible to paint. Lights, horns, mirrors, roof vent... I want it all off. Hood is off right now, dad's gonna repair the fiberglass cracks and we'll sand it down and paint it before it goes on.

What are you looking for in paint for your 79? I like to dredge up winter work to keep a cash flow in our off season.

Go to your local Mack dealer and buy book # 5-106. It's the E-tech Engine Service Manual. While you are there buy book # 8-211, it's the v-mac III service manual. Contains every code and the diagnostics to find the fault. Those motors contain a blink code system to read active fault codes. Between those books you should have everything you need to tackle just about any issue you have with the engine.

Great life out of your existing eups! Pictures please!

EUPs tend to fail from either broken springs or an alignment dowel breaks, allowing the EUP roller to rotate, eating the lobe off the camshaft. Replacing the alignment dowels is a good idea. 

I've never had to touch an EUP though, so I'm just reciting what I've read here.

Does a mechanical 1995 e7-350 fall under the same guidelines? One head always works, the other head works 80% of the time. Usually cuts out after pulling hard. Typically works again after going easy on the motor for a bit. 19,000+ hours on the motor.

That cowhide is beautiful.

I'd say about 3:00 in the afternoon?

13 hours ago, zumogo said:

JoeH sweet Mack. Looks like the one I learn how to drive in. Nice truck

Well the engine in my truck that replaced the original engine has blow-by. With 700kmiles on the truck not the engine. I don't think it was rebuilt.

I finally got all my paperwork ready to go to DMV tomorrow.  Dot number was a headache. Because NJ requires dot number for intrastate. And dot website didn't want to give me a number unless it was interstate. I had to call twice and a couple of hours later I got my last requirement to register my truck.

I went through the headache a few years ago in PA. Most states now require a usdot number, regardless of inter or intra.  It's a way of tracking violations. If you get pulled over and have a violation put against your usdot number but a state is using a state dot number then the violation won't show up in both systems, just the system the violation was put against.  By using the universal federal system they do away with companies having multiple operating numbers and hiding violations.

As an engine tips forward or backward the oil begins to contact the connecting rods, which can create a must from the splashing. Or oil is pooling in the heads due to the angle and not draining. Motion of the rockers and valves could be throwing oil at the breather tube.

Wow. That's an oldie! What year did the R's and DM's come out? That's gotta be close!

RD688S. Mines a concrete truck. Used to be a dump truck though.

Yours it'll be hard to predict how much use the engine has unless it has a ReMack tag on the engine indicating when it was rebuilt.  It could have been bought used to replace a blown motor. No telling how much use it had before it was dropped into your truck.

Nice interior; looks like you need a tachometer sensor.  And you have a 8LL transmission. Nice trans, mine has one too, but mines a POS in my opinion. Mine shifts nice most of the time, but once in a while it hangs up in gear and ruins my upshift. Mine hasnt had AC since we bought it 12 years ago. I'm guessing its a completely mechanical engine because it's a 91 truck with a 96 engine. Hard to retrofit an ecu.

Nice looking truck. How many hours on the clock? My 95 e7-350 has over 19,100 hours. Hasn't needed much. Watch your pyrometer when pulling hills, my e7-350 doesn't want to be taken over 1025 degrees, but it'll easily do 1150.  Gotta be careful to not over heat the heads.  You'll wish for more hp sometimes, but that motor will keep you on the road, not in the shop. And at the end of the day that's good on your bottom line. 

It'll pull fine til it hits a point where the engine is consuming more fuel than can pass through the filters. 

Not a very clear description of the boost drop. You probably have clogged fuel filters. They typically act like a governor slowly lowering the RPM that the boost cuts out at.