JoeH

33 minutes ago, h67st said:

I just meant that I wouldn't sell it to someone who just joined the site...believe it or not, there are folks who aren't actually Mack fans that would then put the thing on eBay for $50. You've been on here long enough that I would sell it to you, but Rob put his chip on it already.

I think he meant it ain't right for an R model.  And id agree.  The R's I have done have a light like that, they have a pedestal light for the turn signal.  My DM however has a light similar on the side of the fender wheel well, but it sets into the hole with a rubber grommet.

And I'd put a price on it if I knew what it was worth. Which hopefully is not less than scrap value.

5 speed aluminum Mack trans. 

My dad will likely want to keep the hydraulics from the plow setup. If you're just buying for parts we might want the power steering off it to put on our crane which is a monster to drive around in the yard.

Comes with a spare hood in decent shape.  Cab is a bit more than a little rusty, but she runs and shifts. Dad used to plow snow with it. Last inspection was 2003.  We put the dump on another truck.  Has a sleeve frame on the back, crossmembers were cut and shortened to maintain spring hanger spacing with the frame sleeve.

Hubs are typically black.

Bumpers are flat black? Probably just cheap black primer with no topcoat? At least that's what bumpers look like on my old R models.

But you really didn't give us any information on what you're working on. You could be working on some modern plastic PoS where everything's the same color.

It's a job, yea, but my dad and I did ours a few years ago, snapped through between spring and the tower.  New sucker weighs about 300 lbs!  But you don't need any air guns for it.  You need a torch for disassembly and a monster breaker bar or ratchet with a 10 ft cheater pipe and somewhere to sit on the floor where you can work the ratchet for reassembly. Ideally with something to put your feet against for traction. Need 2 people, one to work the ratchet and the other to hold the ratchet on the ubolt nut. When one person is worn out, switch places!

I have a 1980 dm686 that has a 1976 motor in it that was pieced together from misc. Other engines.  Long story short, it had the wrong timing cover. Didn't sit well in the front engine mount.  Don't assume the engine has never been out or had parts replaced with other parts laying around.  There should be a rubber bushing in the front engine mount.  Replace it, could be worn and sliding the engine backwards.

Engine blocks are pretty much the same on **685 and **686 trucks, just peripheral changes for different HP ratings. 

Yea. That truck should not have that load behind it.  A 3/4 ton truck is good for 10k on a rear hitch, and roughly 14k on a gooseneck.  Glad the hitch failed in the driveway. My cousin loaded up about 17k on one of his trailers, towed by his 2004? GMC 2500, got halfway out of the storage yard and it ripped the hitch off the frame, bent the lower frame flange pretty good.  Sometimes you just gotta let stupid be stupid and stand back....

That's neat! Interesting that the frame goes up at the front axle!

2 hours ago, TS7 said:

Rep. Brian Mast (R-FL) , a former Explosive Ordnance Disposal Tech who lost both legs in Afghanistan, on Tuesday asked during a congressional hearing if anyone could name a single fallen soldier that doesn't justify killing Iranian terrorist Soleimani. Silence from the terrorist loving Dems. Great video if you see it. 

Just watched the full clip, worth every minute of silence! Glad to see there's a few good representatives out there!

14 hours ago, Lukes Trucks said:

Early model & 1920"s AC Mack collection of 3project trucks and plenty of parts. I would like to sell all together. Serious inquiries only. Norm 269-271-2394

Location?

Clogged fuel filter still let's you hit good boost numbers, up until a continually decreasing rpm as the filter becomes more and more clogged.

Basically acts like a governor.

And when did you last change your fuel filters?

Dual stacks look killer on R models.

Vapor barrier under the concrete only prevents ground moisture from soaking up through the slab. It doesn't prevent condensation from forming on a cold floor with warm humid air above it.

I wouldn't do any less that 6".  If there are parts of the garage that won't/can't have trucks parked on them (shelving/tool areas/etc) you can do one layer of rebar in the middle to save $.  For truck lanes/parking areas I'd do the rebar at the 2 and 4 inch depths in the concrete. Metal closer than 2 inches to the surface of the concrete can rust & pop the concrete off. You see this on older bridge underpasses frequently.

On 1/11/2020 at 5:00 PM, ivanuke said:

Yep I'm in Houston, we rarely see freezing temps. I don't think we got any this past few years. Maybe a day or two. The majority of my property is covered with 4-6" of crushed concrete that my trucks are parked on. I was planning on bringing in select fill as a base for the slab and compact it. Would it be a good idea to add a layer of crushed or would it not make a difference.

How finely crushed are we talking about?  6 inch chunks or 1 inch gravel sized? Or a mixture?  Larger chunks could create pressure points, as they don't readily give way to movement like gravel does.

To that point I delivered concrete to a house years ago. Plumbers had to trench the septic out through the existing garage, so they cut a 1 ft wide strip out of the garage floor.  The entire garage floor was floating 6 inches!! The dirt had settled away from the slab, leaving the whole garage floor floating!

Homeowner was an older gentleman, had been parking his car in there for years.  His response?  "This'll be the next homeowners problem, not mine!"  They finished the septic repair and filled in the trench, leaving the rest of the floor floating!

Interesting!

I laugh at "zero emissions". You don't get movement without forcing energy from something. That something will always produce a biproduct, whether it's coal's co2 and ash, or nuclear waste. Then you have the batteries to dispose of, which will likely mostly be recyclable...

Waste collection is a good test track for electric trucks. It does make sense for such a localized use, but I wonder how well they will hold up? Maybe they'll glitch out like Toyotas Prius and just accelerate and the driver can't stop?  That'd be awfully destructive at 70,000 lbs with 4,000 lbs of torque!! That sucker will keep going till it encounters enough resistance that the tires just sit there spinning on blacktop!

9 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

The higher the psi rating the whiter and brighter the floor will be. You want bright. 

Higher PSI also means more brittle, less forgiving to slab flexing.  But again, sub grade prep and rebar are King.  What concrete can hold on one square inch dirt can only hold on one square foot. (Give or take).

Steel rebar and slab thickness help to disperse point loads (i.e. bottle jacks) across a larger footprint underneath the slab.  Worth looking at concrete load flex diagrams to understand how concrete is stressed.  When a load is put on the slab, the top half of the slab will be in horizontal compression and the lower half will be in horizontal tension.  Having rebar in the top and bottom halves of the slab would make a 3000 PSI slab good enough.   Concrete has a lot of compressive strength, but not much tensile strength.  The rebar in the lower half is what gives the slab tensile strength during flex to prevent cracking.

Ivanuke is in Houston I believe. It doesn't get cold enough there to justify in-slab heat. I would not do Type III "high early" cement. It'll shorten how long the crew has for working with it. Type I cement will be hard enough in a week to roll trucks across.

Looks like they tried chiseling out the rust, gave up and hammered the outer rail down to get it to close up.

Gotcha, thought you said 2 gunite companies and 4 concrete companies.

Gunite trucks looks similar to meter mix trucks, but they produce different products.  Not sure how far barrel truck chutes reach.  My meter mix truck can reach 18.5 ft straight off the back of the truck. A barrel should be able to reach a bit further.  If you break the pour lengthways in half you should be able to reach in 25 ft from either side to cover the 50 ft, assuming the truck can get his tires right up to your forms without hitting any form braces.  You may consider using a "screed key" down the length in the middle (along that 25 ft line)to prevent a cold seam and to keep the two halves from being able to shift vertically from each other.  Screed keys notch the face of the concrete with an indent that will get filled by a slab being poured against it. It effectively locks the two slabs together so they can't shift vertically. Google should give you pictures of them. 

9 minutes ago, ivanuke said:

Wow thanks guys for all the awesome advice! I will be doing the work myself. Forming and doing the rebar. There are 4 concrete plants in the same section of commercial property where my shop is. Two gunite companies and two companies with barrel trucks. Cemex being one of them. I think I will budget for the 6" slab. Thanks for everyones advice especially JoeH for the detailed info!

Are two of the concrete plants volumetric mixers?  My dad and I own meter mix trucks, personally I'm partial to them.  But you want a reputable company with good drivers! Meter mix drivers can't just be drivers, they have to know what good concrete looks like and care enough about their career to want make the best concrete they can for every job!  Barrel trucks, drivers don't have to know anything about concrete, but the company as a whole has to be reputable and use quality materials.

Will you be hiring a concrete finisher? Unless you have a crew that knows what they're doing I strongly recommend having an experienced crew on hand to screed, float, and power trowel the surface.  You want your floor flat and smooth and durable.  1 cubic ft of concrete weighs about 146 lbs.  That's a lot of weight and material for an inexperienced/out of shape crew to handle under the pressure of barrel truckloads getting hot.  Consult with them on truck access/reach to decide if you need to rent a concrete pump or if the trucks can  reach and unload without a pump.