JoeH

Pics please...

My MR had a loose fuse for the VECU that caused a 9-2 (I believe that's engine power loss without key off) had to tighten the fuse connectors to get better contact.

"repair manuals" aren't single books... They're generally several 4+ inch binders with tons of books in them. Engines, transmissions, frame, suspension, wheels/axles, air systems, cabs, fuel system,. Etc. Every component gets its own book. Or at least that's how Mack used to do it...

Post your location, you might be surprised to find someone on here lives local to you and could put an experienced set of eyes on your truck.

The E7 engines had a high volume oil pump option if I recall.  Would it be compatible with this engine?  Does t solve coolant issues, blue smoke, etc, but it could up the oil pressure...

Cold oil is thick. Warm oil is thin. Hence the pressure drop.

It should, there's Active and Inactive fault codes.  Active trip the light, inactive are stored faults that were an issue but are not currently.  Or at least that's my understanding on the ETECH motors.  No idea what year/model you're dealing with though.

8 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I have an E-6 2 valve in my shop as well, an ENDT673..  I need to get back on it, after i finish the 2 other engines I have on stands.  what should I look for in the push rods?  they are all the same,  the rod is narrower than the ball and seat ends..  jojo

I'm just popping in to this thread, haven't been following. Sometimes the spot welds fail on these pushrods and the end inserts (ball and cup ends) are loose. I've seen a couple that way on our endt676 engines.

The first 2 seem minor to me. Need to be fixed, but minor.  That 291 perplexes me. "See Diesel Repair"? Is that code for "something mechanical is broken so we're derating"?  Pull valve covers maybe to see if there's anything outside of ordinary with your valve train?  How's the oil pressure and fuel pressure?

9 hours ago, IHfarmboy said:

It's a 2001 CH truck.  When I use Diesel explorer it shows multiple ECU's (engine,ABS, and one or two others).  What does the rocker switch look like?  I also can run a test connection through Nexiq tester app and can see all ECU's.

It's like the nexiq drivers won't communicate with VMAC.  I get the prompt seen on the left in the picture, then I click on preferences to choose nexiq but nothing is listed.

Try Mack Default and select whatever USB port # you're plugged in to...

Can't open the file, can you take a picture of the codes on your screen?  Diesel Explorer should be fairly descriptive on what they mean.

If it's VMAC III and your check engine light is on you can pull 2 digit "blink codes" by holding the bottom function of the cruise control (I think it's Set/Decel) with the key on.  Cruise on/off switch needs to be off to do it.  Count the flashes of the lightning bolt and post them here, someone can tell you what they mean. After one code is spat our push the button to request another code. Keep doing it til it starts repeating itself.

What year and model.are you trying to connect to? There should be a rocker switch to flip from ABS to Diagnostics. You should be set on Diagnostics. And key should be on.  On Diesel Explorer there's a "Components" tab, that shows you which computers the Diesel Link sees.  If it's a VMAC III you should see listed the EECU, VECU, as well as ABS module if it has one.  If one is missing then you could have a power fault in the wiring to the missing ECU.

You guys should have had more sex with less condoms! Then we wouldn't be in this mess!

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Can someone???   other than TJC,,   tell me how?   we have have a so-called increase in jobs by 430,000,  and an un employment rate below .04%???  but everywhere I go, the business is understaffed due to lack of help, and any 'eatin' joint may have the dining room closed and it's 'take out' or 'drive through only'...   ????   OK TJC...   you can chime in...   Still luv u... jojo

In all honesty I think what's going on is the Boomer Generation is retiring and there simply isn't enough population in my generation to fill the void.  (I'm 32). Covid pushed a fair amount of Boomers out of the workforce I bet.  Guys that didn't want to deal with all the BS of vaccine/mask mandates changing every other week, etc.  Meanwhile these folks still have homes, still need plumbers, are still investing in the hardscaping around their houses, etc.  The generations behind them simply don't have the population to carry the workload.

Thats my observation and I'm sticking to it!  Look around, I'll bet you see a lot less young folks in the companies you work with than you remember from your youth.

I do about 10k miles/year on my triaxle, usually replace 2+ pairs of drive tires in a year.  I keep a pair of recaps mounted and ready to go in the garage. When that set goes on the truck  I go to Bergeys Tires and get the bald set recapped or I get a retread on one of their cases.  Once in a while I'll work in a set of new drive tires.  Truck has 11R24.5 drives, 315's on the steer and lift axle.  Steer usually gets new Continental's, the old steering tires get capped for the lift axle.  Not worth new tires, I'll just grind the tread off delivering concrete to postage stamp driveways with a long wheelbase.  Most driveways are a 3-5 point turn for me to get into.

We bought an MR688S, and that truck uses 315's for steer, lift, and drive! No way in hell is this truck ever getting new drive tires, not at 800-1000 a piece!  New 315's for the steer, but that's it for new tires on this truck. Steers from both trucks will start making their way into the drive positions.

Brakes still get done this way, there's a reason there's a core charge on brake shoes.  Associated Truck Parts where we get our brake/driveline components relines shoes. They've even relined the shoes for our wheel loader.

Easily the most used switch in a truck.

For drives? Cheapish I'd fine with me on drives, but we spend money on the steer tires.

That's landscaping in style. I hope your customers like it when that shiny old dog rolls up!

Also the pyrometer is now running 2-300° cooler.

April fool's I suspect!

The top "right" (passenger side) bolt must have dropped the rubbery washer out. That bolt wasn't holding that corner down well, but the bolt was seized: twisted off.  Had to drill and re-tap to take a 5/16 bolt instead of the metric junk that was in there.

Only got to do a 4 mile round trip test run empty today, looking forward to seeing how it runs loaded tomorrow! 

Replaced charge air cooler. Had a fatigue crack halfway down the front of one side.

Truck went from being a mutt tapping out barely at 20 psi of boost back to a bulldog at 30 psi of boost.  In 10 years of owning this truck we have never seen more than 25 psi out of it.