JoeH

I have a DM686sx that was a barrel truck. 1980. Has a monster bumper, I'll try and get a picture of the radiator/pump bracket.

If you can, get a matched engine/transmission.  I know on my mr688 it has a different flywheel and flywheel housing for the auto. A full donor truck would be the best way to go.

Also, the max hp you can go on a stock hd4560 is I think 375hp. Or at least thats the highest Mack offered with them?

I think it's largely dependent on what years the specific model trans you want was offered. I have a 2003 mr688 former trash truck now turned concrete mixer truck that has the HD4560 paired to an etech AI-350.  I think trash trucks are generally spec'd with top of the line powertrains. Don't know what year superliners you're looking at, but I know the R models are virtually unchanged for a long time. I'm sure the brackets exist to match whatever engine transmission you want into a superliner. Mack was pretty good about using the same components across multiple models.  We have a 1976 U model that had the same exact frame rails as our 1979 R model. The front half of one rail got transplanted into the R model to replace a vertical crack in the R model frame.

No reason you can't drop an etech engine and an Allison hd4560 into a superliner.  A trash truck (mr688) would probably be your best bet on a donor truck.  You better be good with computers and wiring harnesses though. Etechs use an engine computer, vehicle computer, and abs.  The Allison has its own set of computers and shift selector that need to stay integrated with the VMAC III system of the Mack.

Dumb question, what's the condition of your air filter? Clogged filter can cause a bit of oil sucking in weird places....

I've got an endt676 that did more or less the same thing.  Except it doesn't even have a thermostat installed.  It's just a yard tractor used for blowing cement into our silo.  Engine cranks to 1700 rpms to operate the PTO.  We put a solid (fixed) fan on the water pump, now it heats to 155  and stays there.

Mine didn't smoke either; don't need to remove from chassis, just need to undo plumbing at either end.

Mine didn't trail smoke, but it did run hot.

Pressure regulator setting on the hydraulic valve needs to be adjusted?

13 hours ago, Gravelguy413 said:

The overheating issue has been solved thanks to all the Pedigreed Bulldog members who responded and told me more than once to take CAC off and clean in between radiator etc. I guess it had to sink in. Poor dog was running a fever on the hills due to all the dirt clogging the radiator fins. I get no more than 24 lbs of boost on a hard pull but sounds like it’s within spec? Probably time to freshen up the engine considering the miles / hours as a dump truck. It probably is what it is considering what is is. Lol. 

My e7-350 used to only hit 25.  Finally pressure tested the CAC and it had a crack vertically along the seam between the passenger side and the cooling crossover tubes. Symptoms were low boost, high pyro temps, 1000-1200 degrees easy.  

I'll bet your CAC issues aren't over, I'll bet you have a cracked CAC.  You can buy PVC pipe end caps from Home Depot, install a valve stem in one and put each one in one of the rubber hoses on the CAC.  Try pressurizing it. Don't go above 35 psi, but if it's cracked you'll hear it right away.

My truck makes 31 psi now, pyro tops out around 900 degrees.

You can buy a PVC pipe end cap that should fit into an intake boot somewhere; install a valve stem into it and pressurize with shop air.

Does the turbo have a wastegate? Could have something going on there...

Common on these at this age for the plastic fuel return lines that jump from injector to injector to crack and let air in when off. Any dampness up there indicates a problem. 

Strange that it hard starts immediately after shutdown but restarts after it's cooled down.  Worn injector pump barrels?... We have an old Ford diesel pickup that got a "rebuilt" fuel pump that wouldn't start when hot.  If you dumped a cup of cold water on the injector pump it would chill down the pump housing on the injector plungers and then it'd start.  Pump shop gave us another pump free of charge.

Crazier yet, there's people referred to as "Furries": people who think they're animals.  There's kids whose parents advocate for schools to have litter boxes for their kids because their kids identify as Cats... Or dogs, or whatever else.  ER nurse we know has run into this in the ER...

16 hours ago, Gravelguy413 said:

Well I replaced the fan clutch and the fan now works as it’s supposed to. It also got rid of the loud squealing noise that came on around 1600 rpm however the truck is still heating up when hauling a load up hill. I am changing out the thermostat tomorrow. Anything I need to know or is that pretty straight forward?

FYI, the charge air cooler tends to crack.  If the truck builds less than 30 psi boost and runs over 1000 degrees on the pyrometer then you need to be looking your charge air cooler for cracks.  You can buy a couple pvc pipe plugs to clamp into the rubber intake tubes. Install a tire valve stem into one, and pressurize not more than 30 psi. Look for leaks!

There's a fitting on the bottom radiator hose.  Or it's on the bottom or left side of the radiator.  If you don't care about making a mess, you can pull the compressor hose, but those tend to be very stiff.  If you use the proper drain into a clean bucket, then you can re use the coolant.

Around here, there's a stack in every Wawa lobby. Always relaxing to browse through all the used trucks on your lunch break. Also good to keep an eye on current prices of equipment so you can budget for what it'll cost you when you need to upgrade

On 5/28/2022 at 5:43 AM, DMDJ said:

Hi this is my first time trying this I’m looking for a Mack hood scoop the ones I believe that were on r model back in the 80s so if anyone has one or knows where I might be able find one please       Contact me on my email address thank you

I have one...

On 5/26/2022 at 11:25 AM, MhileDollz said:

I have a Mack E7-355

 

Shuts down without the light, it keep showing 9-2 code, I have changed the vecu. But still shutting down it self. What should I do 

Check your fuse/circuit breakers. I believe that's "computer power loss with key on". You likely have weak contacts on your fuse for the VECU power. That's the easiest thing it could be. Wiggling the fuse should reveal the symptom.  If not, could be a broken wire in the power circuit.

In all seriousness, how many hours/week are you working for them? 

They know what the dealers charge. You're no where near the dealer rates.  If your work is good then they're going to have to figure out how to factor your price increase into their cost structure. We're all in the same boat.

Cement went up $10/ton in January, it's about to go up another $12/ton.  That's not including the $3+/ton it's gone up on freight cost this year alone. Your groceries are going up too.  Work to live, don't live to work!

11 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Well that story was depressing..  I am back and forth about staying in business. I have done fewer road calls in the last month, and when I do one, my customer is trying to save money, so some of the repairs are getting done with sub par parts,, But I am not cutting quality on safety items,, or take off parts from salvage yards or dead trucks, anyway...  I may have to get a night job, while I try to get more engine builds to come to my shop..  This is the toughest time I have experienced, while self employed..  jojo

Tell these customers that your rates are going up. If they dump you then just park your service van and go drive tractor trailers. 

From the Google web. Ad said 1989, looks like engine are says 1985? Not sure which pump it has, but someone more familiar can figure it out.  Says 20 degrees. E6, 350