JoeH

All I can think is the truck senses a component in the trans spinning from the inertia of the engine revved up and it triggers a code because in neutral/parked the trans sensors shouldn't sense any movement.

I have a 2003 MR688S that does the same thing, but it's accompanied by a trans code (Allison automatic) the code stays active and won't let the cruise throttle control "ramp up" for the PTO work until you put the truck in drive and go fast enough for the torque converter clutch to lock up. (5-10mph) restarting truck doesn't work. Gotta lock up the TCC.

On 10/29/2023 at 7:57 PM, SpreadingLime said:

So I bought these lev o gages and put them on a couple of my trucks last week so my driver went and did this....

I wasn't expecting the lev o gage to get maxed out so soon!

Crows foot won't do 12 point bolt heads.

In pa, bridge law applied unless you register for 73,280.  I had a tractor with a short trailer, by bridge law I figured I was legal for about 63k despite axle ratings good for 80k. With 5 axles, steer, drive tandem, trailer tandem, I was not allowed to carry as much weight as a triaxle is allowed with only 4 axles and a shorter wheelbase? Really?  Loaded I was 75k, all the tanker trailer could hold. If I had ever gotten pulled over and called out on it (I was pa only on that rig) I would have taken it to court and asked the judge to get an engineer to explain to me my above math.

1, stamped not cast; I couldn't say, my 79 has had thr sane pan forever. I have had a smaller pan crack pretty bad in a couple corners.

2; my 79 ESI+ has 3 filters, no spinner.  My late 70's early 80's ESI engines have 2 filters. My 1995 and 2003 ESI engines have the spinners

I think you're right Paul. The American tip turbine engine is a headache to tear down, tight clearances under the radiator support arms that go to the firewall. There is a lot going on with those manifolds.

If it looked like a bathtub it must have been the + with 3 oil filters

5 hours ago, 70mackMB said:

My '77 R model had the 300+ with ESI. Oil pan looked like a bath tub for a baby! lol    .....Hippy

ESI or ESI+?

27 in the pan, 4 qts between the 2 filters.

3 oil filters is the ESI+ (extended service interval plus) and had a 56 quart capacity, with a 25,000 mile oil change interval. ESI was 27 qt pan with 2 oil filters.

The heavier 55k rears are cast iron square; lighter ones were stamped I believe.  Post pictures!

Google says a cat 309 weighs 21,000 lbs, a 427 should pull that just fine.  These etech motors are only 12 liters, so they won't pull like a 14-15 liter Cummins or cat.

AI-300 or AMI-300?

If it's like the endt676 engines, then how many oil filters you have tells what size oil pan you should have. My one truck holds 14 gallons, but that one has the biggest oil pan/filter arrangement Mack made.one of my others is around 9 gallons I believe.

This motor does not use hydraulic lifters, that's probably the difference in procedure between this and what you're used to.  You have to have the cylinder at TDC so there's no force applied from the cam lobes to the rocker assembly.  Each cylinder's valves are only in this resting position at TDC on the combustion stroke.

Just to clarify, is it a Mack Dynatard or a Jacobs engine brake? I'm not familiar with the solenoids of either one, but I believe they're fairly different.  

Good news on the valve lash check.

Generally a failing exhaust gasket will have a chirping sound. There's 6 individual gaskets, and to replace you can loosen all the studs and take off the manifold/turbo assembly or if you're by yourself and can't lift that much weight you can leave a couple nuts on and cut notches in the new gasket bolt holes so you can drop them in from the top. If one is leaking you'll have black soot around it, and with engine running you'll feel air puffing there. Our e7 exhaust manifold rusted the mating surface on #6 and hydrolocked, fortunately didnt break anything, had to take the manifold off go weld/grind it back up. Our '79 endt676 over the years always needed the exhaust manifold nuts tightened periodically, and one time broke a stud! Annoying, but it the threads in the head spun right out by using a broken drill bit spinning backwards. I may have had to center punch it in a few places to give it some texture for the bit to grab.

I also have a steel dash R model with a 237 endt675 that has a head gasket that's been chirping for maybe 10 years? Its a truck that gets used about 3 times a year here at the yard.  

My dad times the old ENDT676 motors with a snow plow pump.  Helped him do it once a few years ago, dont know what the process is for the E7. Fill the plow pump with diesel, hook it up to the injection pump.  I think the plow pump relief valve needs to be set to around 700psi.  The book says to use some special pump to do this process, so he just used a plow pump because that's what he had.

Took me a few minutes to remember the systems name: Puff Limiter.

22 hours ago, allfritz123 said:

I think someone set up the pump before we got it as it will throw a heavy black smoke when you stop on the pedal.  As well,  pyrometer has to be watched if pulling hard as it can climb rapidly under heavy load.  We always suspected the pump was set up but we watch it carefully.  Loaded truck on gravel road could be around 58,000 lbs.   With a load that heavy, we typically have kept temp down by limiting speed.   Try to keep it below 1100 degf and typically 1000 or so degf by not driving as fast.   Empty truck is typically 900 degF although if you step on it hard, it will move up!

Doubt anyone set up the pump, the fuel pump has a slave cylinder that governs fuel until intake pressure from the turbo jumps. It is tied into an aneroid? valve on top of the intake manifold on the rear head.  These fail and get deleted, resulting in full access to fuel regardless of boost pressure.  Rolls coal til the turbo catches up then it clears right up.  On this engine the pyrometer should say Downshift at 1125° so you're fine at 1100. If it keeps pushing passed 1125 then change your air filters. This engine setup uses 2.

Don't think so. This spare is a 1981 endt676, same year and engine he's working on.

Pairs on the damper are 1-6, 5-2, 3-4.

In 2 rotations you'll hit the whole pattern in order. I'm hoping your spare engine can donate a timing pointer. 

Had to take a screenshot of the picture to get it to load.... 

You can barely make out a 4 | 3etched in where the yellow marker is. That's what you're looking for on the damper wheel.

The firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 is cast into the block above the rear tappet cover.

We mark our engine dampers with yellow marker 1 | 6 , etc, where the | marks that the pair is at TDC.  Each pair is 120° (1/3) apart from the next pair.  You check the valve clearances in the firing order.  If you get one rocker that's got too much Freeplay then you need to pull the pan and check that lifter.  All it costs you is an oil pan gasket and an oil change to pull the pan.  

No you cannot see the cam from the tappet covers.  Valve covers (which are a nightmare of plumbing to remove) and oil pan.

For reinstalling valve covers, do it BY THE BOOK! Dry, no silicone, no gasket adhesive.  DO NOT overtorque valve cover bolts, it makes the sides flare out, and you'll have leaking valve cover gaskets.

The marks on the damper wheel are etched in, you have to wire brush it to see them.  Pointer should be on the timing cover, around a 10 o'clock position as viewed from front of vehicle.