JoeH

New gaskets are a must. This is an ENDTB, so it has Dynatard not jake brake? Does the Dynatard use a riser under the valve cover? The Jake does, so you need 2 valve cover gaskets per head, one for the riser and one for the valve cover. I've never had a Dynatard so I don't know how they're set up.

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

if you have the old gray rubber gaskets or the black ones that are attached at the business end, , you can re-use them..  you will see how the crush on them makes them just a tick wider at the mating side..  You can flip them over, they will fit snug in the valve cover groove..  the cover bolts are shouldered so they will only go down so far before they stop...  to me this is not a crappy way to do this,  its just using both sides of them..  of course, you have to determine if they are to far gone for re-use...  

These don't have a valve cover groove.

While I've only had to replace one head on these engines, we've had the valve covers off plenty of times. Last time was to delete the jake brake, we have a weak valve springs on one cylinder and the disk on top of the valve stem that the jake actuator pushes on kept popping out, so after the 2nd time it popped out we pulled the plug on the jake.

1 hour ago, RS Disposal said:

It does look like Permatex does still offer "high tack"

Trust me. Absolutely nothing. Don't use hi tack, don't use silicone, don't use anything. Check the valve covers for "straight" sides, the mating surface bows outwards when you over tighten. Wipe the mating surfaces down real well so there's no oil residue or anything else on them, put the gasket down, cover on, make sure the gasket is sitting right under the covers, then torque them up.  

High tack and rtv silicone and anything else will lubricate the gasket and it will squeeze out. You will never get them to seal properly for any length of time unless you do them dry. Our '79 endt676 we could never get to seal up. We tried high tack and rtv and it always leaked. Then we did it dry once and we've been leak free for years now.

If he wants to total it I'll tell him "BS, I can fix it for 80% of that." That's typically the cutoff point where they total it.  If it's totalled, they auction it off and I have Last Right to buy it at auction price.  So I'm expecting them to value my truck at $30k even though I have $70k into that chassis.  Then some exporter buys it at auction for $10k, I gotta buy it back, and I get $20k for my $70k investment. I will have no problem fixing the truck for -80% of $30k.

Same here. They're either concrete pumps and $100,000+ or garbage trucks and beat to heck. Part of what's frustrating about the whole thing, ours was a bit of a gem compared to anything else as old out there!

On the frame he thought a couple of the places where the frame changes depth and also splays out around the engine/trans were kinks from the accident. He also thought the frame would be twisted,  which yea on a dump truck I'd expect that. But this mixer bolts rigid at the back, and mid and front mounts are spring-hold bolt mounts, which only allow about 2" of twist deviation from the mixer body, which has its own frame that adds rigidity to the truck.

@Joey Mack got the mixer body off on Black Friday, had my cousin Pete "The Crane Man" bring one of his cranes over to lift it off.

Insurance guy came to look at truck more than a week ago and he tried telling me the frame got tweaked. BS. There's not a thing wrong with this frame. He sounded like he was ready to total the chassis, but I told him we're not totalling anything til I get the mixer body off and get a truck collision guy over to look this thing over. I think I'm gonna get away very lucky, only needing a cab and miscellaneous hoses and brackets, tie rod & ends, maybe kingpins and drag link ends too, just to be safe. Axle shifted about 1/4 inch on the passenger side, so it could be into springs as well.  

Just need to lock in on a decent parts truck and we can get this truck back together.

I've only had to do a head on these once, I did it by the book.  Torque to 200, drive around got an hour, retorque.  Its a pain to have to deal with all the intake tubing, and those valve covers are horrible to seal. Gotta do them dry and do not go above torque spec.

I walked away from a 2003 granite cv713 a few years ago that had a great frame, except for a small 4 inch horizontal crack in the frame just behind the cab.  $40k truck that needed new inner and outer frame rails because of that dumb crack. Rails can run $10k per side or more, plus the install labor.

Apart from that one spot by the hoist cylinder I think that is a great looking truck, frame and all.

2006 will be an AI-400 motor, which has a restrictive exhaust manifold and turbo, and an extra little bump on the exhaust lobes of the camshaft. These things are the extent of the emissions system on it, and they can all be replaced with components that predate the ASET AI/AC emissions systems. There's a thread on here somewhere on it with part numbers.  The AI has the bump on the cam to open exhaust valves a bit on the intake stroke so the truck can breath it's own vomit. (Exhaust). Computer won't know the difference if you replace these bits, and the thread on here indicated a noticeable difference in power.

Note the horizontal line. Could be light reflection, could be a crack.

Just looked it up, it's the opposite of lab grown, it's basically just pasture rotated turkeys.  They're allowed to scrounge around it the dirt for their food, which yields a healthier bird and healthier earth for farming.

I wonder if it's "Lab grown meat." Apparently they've started taking meat cells and by keeping them in some sort of solution they can keep the cells from dying and actually get them to multiply, literally growing meat without being attached to the animal!

Sounds like a cancer trigger waiting to happen...

I think dealer is being lazy.  

You posted two pictures of that part of the frame. I see the crack in one but not the other. It could be just how the light reflects off it, but it could be a crack as well.

Second thing I don't like:

It looks like the frame has cracked where the base of the hydraulic ram rests on the frame.  This would be a major red flag, truck needs a frame if it's actually cracked there. This is a high stress area, I don't think I'd be welding that spot back up.

Looks very clean, a minor amount of rust jacking just starting, but a lot of life left in that frame. Only thing I don't like is that they welded the lift axle to the frame in a few spots. Don't think that'll cause you any problems, but welding on frame rails is something you're not supposed to do...

Note that the rust cancer used to be part of the frame, so the worse it is the more material thickness you've lost from the frame.

there's some rusty frame pictures in this thread from a few years ago. Gives you an idea of what the rust can do.  It pries the flanges apart until they crack horizontally, junking the frame.  Twice now we've rehabbed trucks by pulling one side out at a time, separating, sand blasting and painting, reinstalling, then doing the other side. Its labor intensive and time consuming, but the end result is about as "like new" as you can get without dropping $20k for new rails.

That's a tough call, I personally wouldn't buy something without putting eyes on it, or having someone I know third party putting eyes on it. Where is the truck? Maybe you'll get lucky and someone on here lives nearby.

Garbage trucks tend to be spec'd heavy, beefier trucks will hold up better and require less maintenance than an underspec'd truck.

Is that right on the steer axle? 24,000 lbs? Pictures please; how is the frame? That'll be the biggest concern is Rust Jacking. Also, I'd look for any hairline cracks in the frame behind the cab, where the vertical part of the frame rails bends to start the flange.

There will be a port on the top of the oil filter stand to tap in for your dash oil pressure gauge.

There's a few different arrangements for these. Id agree with Matt, scrounge around for a filter bracket from an endt-675/6. They at least come in 2 or 3 filter setups, it boils down to an option the truck was originally ordered with: ESI or ESI+ (extended service interval) the ESI oil pan was a mid size, with 2 oil filters.  The ESI+ was the 3 filters with a huge oil pan, something around 56 quarts, 14 gallons.  The bigger the pan/filter arrangement the more miles you could get per oil change.  Not sure if there was a single filter option, all mine are 2 or 3 filter setups.