Delaneyland

I know this is a tall order guys and girls, but I was given an APU that has no manufacturing markings of any kind on it. I was told it was manufactured in either Oregon or Washington but the company went out of business. Specifically what I'm looking for is a schematic to figure out the wiring and proper connection. I know, I'm asking for a needle in a haystack but thought I'd ask in case anyone on this board may be familiar with this thing. It came with a diamond plate aluminum cover. Any hints would be greatly appreciated. Doug

Aren't the two diagrams essentially the same? I was looking to leave two posts free for jumper cable use and when I compared theakerstwo diagram to mine, they have the same connections, ie + to - but just routed differently. What am I missing?? Thaddeus, the way I read your post ( I think) is the way I put up my diagram, isn't it? Thanks guys for your responses....and about rings...when I was drilling, I broke the cardinal rule about rings. I got my ring caught in a pipe sling and once the sand line dragged me 25' up the derrick, it suddenly hit me not to break rules on the rig, written or spoken. Doug

I recently bought four six volt batteries to get my monster started and am wondering how I can hook these four to get 12 volts. I figure hooking them in series (2 of them) would make a nice jump starting setup, but would like to use all four to double my amperage. If I understand what I've read, using two 6 volts in series will give me 12 volts but doesn't increase amperage and my goal is to get 1540 cranking amps out of four 6 volt 770 amp batteries. Okay, maybe I've got too much free time on my hands but I thought I'd ask the experts here first. Can it be done?

It sure is cute, if you're taking votes, I say BUY IT!!!~

I just wanted to take a minute to wish everyone on this board a Happy Thanksgiving. I know times are difficult for nearly everyone but I truly believe if we all take a moment or two to count our many blessings, it won't take long to realize how blessed we all our in our lives. A huge thank you to all our veterans, their families and loved ones, and all those that serve us every single day asking nothing in return. God bless us all and may God bless the USA! I hope everyone here has a fulfilling and joyous holiday. Doug

The winters here in MN can get ugly and I've used a paint stripping gun to warm up the intake before, it works pretty well. They can make a LOT of heat so you have to be a little careful, I'm not a big fan of ether and will go out of my way to avoid it. Like Rob said, the coolant heaters work okay but I've found if there is a wind, it takes a lot of heat away from the block. I doubt it gets too terribly cold where you are Mike, but a blanket over the engine with the tank heater plugged in works great for maintaining the heat in the block.

Maybe I wasn't clear in my original post. What I want to know is what gives the right for them to check if you've got red fuel? The last I looked, the exceptions to a search warrant were consent, probable cause, flight risk, or plain sight. Seems to me its no different than a cop digging through your car, sleeper, camper, whatever, in which case the evidence against you would be thrown out. I just don't understand how these guys can force you to look at the color of your fuel. Like I said, I've never stopped at a checkpoint, and probably never will because I believe it violates my rights to be free of search and seizure as granted by our Constitution. Maybe I'm just an idiot, but I truly feel our rights are essential for a free society and if we give our rights away, we are screwed.

It struck me after reading through so many posts from so many knowledgeable folks that this is where I should ask my question. In the last few years, Minnesota Commercial Enforcement officers have drastically increased the numbers of what they call "fuel checks". I drive an F-350 with the 7.3 in it and never stop just because I have questions about the legality of it all. I don't burn red fuel so I'm not worried about that, I just think it is a cheap shot for these guys to do this. As a retired police officer, I doubt the legality of what they do, to me, unless they have your consent or a warrant, there is no probably cause for a search. I cannot get any answers from any troopers I know and I have no terrific desire to contest the legality of it in court. Does anyone have any experience with these so called check points? Has anyone ever fought the process or said "no" at a checkpoint? I guess I'm old school, but I fail to find the legality of what they do and frankly, I think its kind of a chicken s#*t method of police work. Doug

Thanks Paul, unfortunately I think my work on the B model is done. I have it running but between a crack in the block, its excessive oil consumption, and raw fuel coming from the exhaust, it is just a little more than I can handle right now. I love this beast and frankly am pretty damn proud of myself about bringing it back to life but I believe its a little more than I can handle. It will be in the "for sale" section shortly. Doug

Its only my opinion, but I'd say if there are signs of corrosion in the lines that make you feel the need to flush them, they probably all should be replaced. I just got my International 1900 on the road after replacing all the lines, master, and calipers. It sat for about five years and (in my opinion) replacing all the lines and such was the only option as the likelihood of failure was too great for me to risk. I doubt there would be a solution that could be used for flushing that would be compatible with brake fluid and I would think it would be extremely difficult to remove ALL the solvent from the lines once you flushed them. Just my $.02.

Thanks Glenn, all I have for a book is the owner / operator manual and it didn't list it. Doug

I'm planning on flushing the old coolant tomorrow and am wondering if anyone knows the coolant capacity of the engine and radiator. I tried the search and couldn't find anything. Thanks.

Howdy, you'll find plenty of help here....I sure did. If you look at the post "advice for startup" that I posted a while back, you'll find a bunch of good advice from the guys here. The b-67 I found had been sitting for at least 15 years, and frankly it was much easier to get her started than I had imagined. First I rolled the engine over to ensure it was free, next I took off the intake and return lines from the fuel tank and cleaned them out. I soaked the hand primer and got it to work freely. I had to replace the fuel filter canister as it was rusted through and I had to replace the fuel lines from the lift pump to the filter and the line from the filter to the injection pump. Thankfully someone drained the injector lines and pump when they decided to put it away so I had no issues cleaning the pump and lines out. I cleaned and replaced the oil in the air filter, cleaned out all the mouse nests from the air intake, cleaned out 15 years of bird nests from the exhaust pipe and muffler (they were packed all the way down the exhaust pipe). I cracked the oil drain to make sure there was no water in the oil, filled the radiator only to discover coolant leaking from the left side of the head. I cleaned all the battery connections (after figuring out the craziness of the 24v starting system) and put it all together. I spent about a day bleeding the fuel system once I got the primer working, I just used a clean 5 gallon can and put the intake and return lines in it. My fuel tanks are questionable at best and couldn't see any sense in drawing any goop from the tank. I probably got a little carried away with the priming of the pump and lines but wanted to make sure they were clean before I tried starting it. As my fuel shut off in the cab is froze, I put a pair of vice grips on the fuel shut off on the injection pump and had a neighbor stand by next to it in case of run off. I charged all the batteries, gave her a SMALL shot of ether, turned it over a dozen or so times, and VIOLA!! She came to life.

Well guys, I got her primed and it fired today, of course, the magnetic switch is chattering again so I need to take care of that problem. Next problem is coolant dripping out of the left (drivers side) head. I'm still devoted to get this thing running, just to make sure it does, but it will be for sale if anyone is interested.

I've called Watts twice, the first call I got Barry, the administrator of this site, the second was today and both were great experiences. Today I called looking for a new primer for my B-67 and after a great conversation with Tracey, he passed me to Tom, who, after listening to my difficulties with priming the injection system, immediately recommended checking the return bypass valve. I don't yet know if its the problem or not, but the willingness to talk to their customers and help troubleshoot just amazes me, most outfits just want to sell parts and these guys truly seem to want to help. I truly appreciate the dedication to customer service this outfit provides. YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!!!!!!!!

Rob, you had it right. As much as I hate to admit it, I neglected to tighten one of the battery connections, after tightening it, it spins over fine. Now, another question. I thought it would be a bright move to prime the injectors before trying to start it so I cracked a line on the pump and when I try the primer, I get nothing. I can hear fuel trickling into the tank ( I used the suggestion of using a remote fuel tank) but am getting nothing from the line. Should I just keep priming? Spin the starter? Remove the return line and put it in the remote tank? Block the return line? Seems to me that all the fuel I'm priming is simply returning to the tank. Do I risk pump failure by simply turning it over until it starts to smoke?

Did you buy it? Huh? Huh? Come on already, I've been waiting for the pics!!!

I'm nearing the nuts of this startup but ran into something I thought I ask the gurus about. I got all the fuel lines replaced, a new fuel canister and filter in today, got the batteries in and hooked up. I haven't hooked up fuel yet as I wanted to make sure I could turn her over and get some oil through it first. I turned the ignition switch on, pushed the starter button, and viola, it turned over but not steadily. It would get a half a rotation, and the magnetic switch would click, then re-engage. I tried it a number of times, same thing. I was a little stumped, thinking maybe the switch was dirty. I got to thinking and wondered about the exhaust as it seemed to be working really hard to move air. Sure enough, the muffler was full of bird nests, sticks, unhatched eggs, etc, etc. I cleaned out as much as I could, all the way to the elbow (where my shop vac could not turn the corner) and tried it again thinking the exhaust pressure would clear out the rest....nope, same thing. Obviously I'll need to disassemble the exhaust system and clear this out but my question is, will the magnetic switch disengage if there excessive draw on the starter from the exhaust blockage or is it a problem with the switch itself? Thanks.

Thanks HK, at least I know I'm on the right track.

Thanks for the pointers guys. A few more questions.. I was told by a parts dealer there is a lift pump on the left side of the motor. I've followed the fuel lines and I cannot find one nor does my book show one. All I see is a line going from the left tank to the right tank, from the tank to the injection pump....and of course, the return line. Am I missing something? My book says this creature is positive ground, but I recall seeing a post somewhere on this site that B's are negative ground and by grounding positive, the starter will spin backwards. I guess I'm inclined to believe my book but I just want to check. I'm also thinking I need a service manual that will help me dig through all these little issues that my operation and maintenance manual doesn't cover...anyone know of a vendor for a good manual? Thanks for your input.

Thanks Guys! I took the fuel filter lid off Sunday and discovered no filter and enormous rust inside. I was a little discouraged but was very pleased to find absolutely NO rust on the pump intake nipple. A few days sitting with PS blaster and the priming plunger is working again....things are looking up!! I called for a filter canister and started cleaning out the lines from the fuel tank....we'll see what happens.

Howdy boys and girls. I'm brand new to Macks and this forum so excuse my ignorance. I am now the proud owner of a 1964 Mack B 67T with an astounding 1221 miles. Its whole life was spent pulling house boats in and out of a resort on the Canadian border. She has been sitting outside for ten years and I'm trying to decide where to start. My gut tells me to pull the pump and injectors and have them gone through before I attempt to start her. I'd hate to trash the pump and / or injectors if there is something in the fuel lines. The primer on the pump is froze which leads me to think I'm on the right track. I've not dabbled in this before so any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.