RobM626

So those tee’d lines are supposed to share a port?

It looks like they put the compressor and another line together on one port. I think this is part of my new problems i cant tell which line is for reservoir and which line is for dryer

Hey guys . Does this look right to you? Aren’t the lines supposed to be in 3 different ports?

If you have an electronic fault I don’t think it will work so clear the faults if you have the lamp lit

Turn cruise control on/off 3 times quickly . Set the rpm you want then press the clutch pedal to set new rpm

Auto or manual?

I was at the world of concrete show out in Vegas this past January. Mack was there and had some beautiful trucks as part of the show. On of the representatives was there telling me about the common rail MP saying how good it is bla bla bla. All I can think of in my head is “this engine wasn’t really designed for it”. It really is a shame a company that has had such a long/strong history of building tough products can be held down like this. My question is how do you guys think the common rail mp8 stands against say the Cummins x15. I understand one is a 13 liter and one is a 15 liter so obviously there’s going to be a power difference. But as far as design and reliability go?

I bought the etech service manual but there’s not much in there on trouble shooting. Unless there are different service manuals I don’t know. There’s information on how it runs and assembly/dissasembly but not much on how to diagnose. That’s y I’ve been driving all you fine gentlemen crazy for Months lol. im running the truck everyday I really don’t have much of a choice. It costs us 800-1000$ a day to rent a dump truck from another company and that’s a non union truck. I feel like I’ve been running the truck like this so long that I did irreversible damage. Gonna see what happens when I drop the tranny and oil pan. thanks for the input

It’s just not right . I hear what your saying. I’m trying to learn more and more and do as much as I can but life is a whole learning experience. I just have different morals and values than a lot of other people. I admit when I’m wrong and try to rectify it and I care about my professional reputation. I literally wouldn’t be able to sleep at night or look myself in the mirror knowing I charged someone thousands of dollars and did a half assed job

It’s an eup motor. But the timing of the cam gear was always a thought in my head. When I mentioned that to the guy that did the work (who closed his shop this year by the way) he said if the timing was off it either wouldn’t run or would be smoking like crazy. The fact of the matter is I have no idea what they did or didn’t do. What I do know is they didn’t change the EUP’s when they did the cam and rollers. The 2 from the bad lobes were shot. So the motor was running with barely firing/ leaking injectors until I went to a different shop and I changed all 6. And that guy didn’t even change nozzles and injector lines. I’m so sick of people opening businesses and calling themselves mechanics . I have a business and if someone asks me to do something if I don’t know the answer or what I’m doing I straight up say so or get someone that does.

No it’s gotten progressively worst after different things that were done to the truck. An inframe was done like 4 years ago . After that the motor ran hotter than usual but ran good. A couple years ago I got hit in my yard with a loader and after I picked truck up from body shop I noticed my clutch was really soft and I had this spinning noise/vibration. I replaced clutch and then I started getting a slapping/clunking noise Everytime I shifted or pressed realeased accelerator. Shortly after that my cam shaft had two lobes that were shot . Replaced cam and rollers and then the motor never ran right since . Been downhill from there. Since then replaced half the components of the truck with the same problems keep coming back and always getting worst. I used to think it was one thing that the problem was. Now it’s looking like multiple serious things. i just changed flywheel. I think that was the cause of the premature clutch failures. Now I’m thinking my rears are what’s causing tranny damage. I think the clunking slapping I’m feeling in the tranny is the rears and it’s sending like shock load to the transmission and the clutch. The motor is a whole another mess now.

Thank you for the detailed response. Much better understood

Yea they ran motor without tranny in and there’s a slight vibration but it’s not as pronounced because it doesn’t have the tranny to travel through i replaced fan clutch couple months ago no change. im bringing the truck back to the last guy that worked on it and he told me he’s gonna drop tranny again and get it dynoed from rebuilder and checked out.. he said he’s gonna drop the oil pan too and see what’s going on up there. Although he won’t be able to fix it BC he doesn’t do motor work. The saga continues

Thank you for the info. Can the turbo seal cause blow by?

Sorry to jack the thread, but what are some other places to look for causes of blow by besides piston rings? i have no smoke from stack except for a little white/ light grey at the first start of the morning (little more on a cold day) and very very very little black if I push accelerator before the turbo really starts to push then it clears completely. I have no noticeable oil consumption and my oil samples always come back with no signs of problems

The setup I had was cable engage/disengage and cable up/down. I absolutely hated it. Now it’s air everything. And the set up is great. I know what you’re saying about the air not being as precise because the regular truck I drive is like that. I feel like the older the valves get they they get loose and leaky and aren’t as precise.

No problem. I can’t gaurantee if it will get rid of your problem but like I said earlier. There’s a night and day difference between the two as far as ease of operation goes. This set up didn’t once freeze up this past winter and it engages the first time every time. i think the total cost for the pto and air controls costed around 8-900. My in-house mechanic installed it so we didn’t pay labor. I changed out a pto that already had air controls and I paid over 1000 from the mechanic

The air hoses that replaced the cables are hollow plastic 1/4” hoses. The cables obviously have a metal cable with a plastic sheath over them. There’s not really a medium for sound/vibration to travel with the air hoses

I don’t know if it would completely eliminate the noise but we changed out the pto on a truck that had a cable system to an air shift pto and the air shift is 100 tines better. Smoother, faster, easier, cable doesn’t freeze up in winter.

I personally bought the damper from mack. There was supposedly an update for etech engines . I believe the new one was bigger and has more bolt holes . They said I didnt have to change the hub. they road tested it this time and told me they think it’s in the motor but they don’t do motor work. i don’t understand how metals never show up in the oil samples. Blackstone always tells me my numbers are excellent with minimal wear. I’m starting to think these oil analysis’ are full of shit man and shame on all these mechanics to let me keep dumping all this money into a truck that’s not gonna be worth .02 cents once the motor blows up. After this recent bill the repairs totaled $40,000. I could’ve bought another truck

It’s got light steam in the fill tube/ dip stick

It has a new damper Since I got the truck back it’s giving me a whole new bunch of symptoms. The whole thing feels like it’s falling apart. The motor has more blow by than usual. It’s shaking more than ever. The tranny sounds like it’s about to blow. My tears feel like they’re screwed. The truck is a rolling disaster right now and I do t know where to start. I think I should light a match and call it a day i don’t understand how all these things just bombarded the truck in the past 2 weeks. I didn’t have a situation happen where it was like “oh no I blew a rear” or “oh no my tranny blew” it just keeps gradually getting worst to the point the trick is barely driveable

The flywheel was destroyed . Replaced it. The clutch was shot AGAIN.it was only wearing on the inside of the paddles. the driveshaft was put of balance so they balanced it and a wheel bearing was bad now the truck feels worst than before the motor is sending a pulsation that’s traveling through the tranny and rattling the hell out of the gears . The slapping when pressing and releasing accelerator is worst than ever. And my transmission is making horrible growling noises. Im trying to find a day that bring it back so he can drop tranny again, drop oil pan. And check out rears. I’m was so miserable about this situation I did t even post the update . Sorry

Will do... I personally am so curious to know what is actually the problem. For me it’s like trying to find out who really killed Kennedy lol. A good mechanic is really like a detective