Dan107

7 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Dan, do you dare to take the turbo apart and clean out the soot that has the ring nozzle bound up?  jojo

I think it's the metal ring between the nozzle and the housing.  For some reason it has expanded and is blocking movement.  

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

remove the turbo VGT actuator, leave it plugged in and cycle the key to see if the actuator does a self test.. if it does, then rotate the little 1/4 gear to right (I beleive) and reinstall the VGT actuator..  there is actually a little plastic gauge to set the VGT position... do you have that tool?  you wont be able to move the actuator by hand, so dont try..   when it is put back together, you can use PTT to do a VGT calibration.  hope to see more info on this, to get you were you need to be..  that said.....  👍   Awesome!!!!!  You took on, one heck of a job.. Jojo

I did that, the little round gear seems to be working fine.  The one on the turbo is locked down for some reason.  This is what happened originally and necessitated me purchasing this one.  But I will try it again to make sure.    

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

Did you ever calibrate/factory relearn the new turbo?

Not yet.  I need to run it, from what I've read, for about a 100 miles or so before it's safe to idle it for any length of time.  Something about setting the rings?

Just now, Onyx610 said:

Since it’s deleted, throw a fixed turbo on there haha.  

Is that possible?  IF the engine won't derate, and just posts a code I would consider that.  I'm just not sure what turbo, and how it would attach.  

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

Timing it go smoothly for you?

I followed the advice here; set #1 TDC, set the cam, then "with a keen eye" set the cam gear.  I used a drill bit in the alignment hole.  I know it's redneck, but I was desperate.  

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

I wonder if there is a warranty on that turbo? It won’t derate the truck, it would just be stuck in that one position and throw a code. 

Yes, there was a warranty, but the dealership wanted me to spend another $5K and then wait to see if it would be warrantied.  

1 minute ago, Onyx610 said:

AWESOME!!!! Congrats man! 

Couldn't have done it without all the help I received here!  

SHE'S ALIVE!!!! Primed her up and she fired right off, and guess what??? No codes!  Other than the turbo actuator isn't working on the brand new turbo I bought a couple of months ago.  But I just went for it, and put everything back on and tried to start it.  Fired up immediately.  I have since started it a few times to let if run long enough to throw a code, if it's going to.  So far, no codes other than the turbo.  On that note, will the computer derate the engine if the actuator isn't functioning correctly?  I have it unplugged now because it seems that it's jammed inside the turbo.  Also, if I pin it with the alignment notch, will it still make boost?  I know I'm rambling, but I'm really happy with the engine...Thank ya'll!

15 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

inspection hole at 6 o'clock....  

Are you talking about the large inspection hole or the small bung hole, and is it a dimple mark on a tooth, or a hole in the flywheel I’m looking for?  I should have marked this stuff before and this is a prime example of what happens when a person gets in too big of a rush!

1 hour ago, Onyx610 said:

Do you have fleet impact? If not I’ll look up the procedure on one of our MP8s on Monday. 

Nope, don’t have that.

I think in the morning I'm going to try and run my snake camera up from the bottom and see if I can find those timing marks.

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

no...  a '0' on the flywheel,  and a TDC mark on the front of the cam...  jojo

Is the "O" where a person can see it, or is it in front of the transmission?  

Hey, on this engine is there a hole in the flywheel for a dowl alignment tool like on a CAT engine?  It supposed to assure the engine is TDC.  Or, is there some mark on the flywheel that is visible from the bottom?  

On 2/21/2022 at 8:10 PM, Onyx610 said:

Pictures and updates please! If you have the time haha…

Cylinder 1 pic.  

Hey all!  On the question of the head, I ordered a new, fully loaded one!  Had an old diesel tech take a look at it and thought it best.  I didn't want to take a chance on there being something damaged we couldn't see.  Plus, I spent nearly $3k having the old head serviced when #2 cylinder cracked a couple of years ago.  With that being said, I think I may have really screwed up!  My assumption was that with the cam gear having timing marks on a couple of teeth, that the idler gear would also have a corresponding single tooth marked...we all know what happens when we assume!  Now I can't find an understandable solution on how to get this set correctly without excess work and expense.  So, once again I come to ya'll for help.   

Leak down done this morning and I can hear air coming from the oil fill tube....

5 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Now Im a little more worried for you that it’s deleted….A good amount of deleted trucks have eventually gone through some kind of major failure. Usually in the head. Not all just a fair amount, hopefully not the case for you. 

I was aware of this before the delete.  When looking into it, I found if it wasn't done properly, there was a heat problem and sometimes head/valve failure.  "Supposedly" the provider for mine said it wasn't the case with their software.  As I said, I have been running strong with this truck for years after the delete.  While it is possible, the way I have mine set up, I don't think there is a heat issue related to the delete.  But, one never knows.  

1 hour ago, fjh said:

By chance did you check the EGR cooler on this bro? Just another straw to grasp!

No EGR cooler on this one...it's deleted and a I fabricated a crossover tube to take care of the coolant flow.  It's a deleted engine, has been for the last 4 years.  

Some may not like this, but I found a "heavy duty" diesel compression tester at the Harbor with a Volvo adapter.  I'm going this morning to pick it up.  For someone like me, this may do the trick.  Don't hate!

I don't have anything like that, or access to it.  

43 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

I strongly believe we can figure this out, do you have the tools to do those tests? They cost a good bit of money….I hope some of the “big dogs” as I like to call them that i mentioned earlier will chime In soon. 

I have access to an automotive leak down tester.  Not sure if it is compatible with this engine though.   Do you think one of those type will work?  

So, could all this be just a faulty injector?

9 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Yea cleaning them doesn’t do much of anything, the cut out test on the cylinder is a good idea. Did the cup in the cylinder show any soot/pitting on the outside?

I saw nothing on the outside of the cup.  Still shines.  The injector was really sooted up at the nozzle though and I cleaned them up when I changed the cups before. Don’t know if that means anything.

53 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Ok so time to go back to the offending cylinder…now for the blow by, those crankcase vent spinners are very expensive so I’m not gonna tell you to just throw one at it. There have been issues with them though. May want to check for pinched hoses. 

You are correct sir, I got a quote today for $1500 drive out, with the gasket needed between the canister and the block....So, I did clean it up and put a "rebuild" kit in it.  It was nothing but a set of new gaskets.   The internals seem clean, and free of damage.  The wheel spinner turns freely.  It was running oil out at 1100RPM's and stopped when I went back to idle.  I had spoken with another diesel engine tech and was told to do another injector cut-out test to see if the blowby decreased when cylinder 1 was turned off.  

53 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

You can’t clean the filter on these. These are a centrifugal style filter and I believe you have to buy the whole housing. How many miles are on this truck? It could be very loaded up and blowing out past the o rings. 

952000 miles on this truck, and I've had it since 533000.  There are a few video's of the internals being cleaned, and as I mentioned, a "kit" is sold to replace the o rings inside.  I pulled the valve cover off, and it looks like I have very fine particles of metal up top.  Granted, they are like a fine powder, but looks and feels like metal to me.  

I've pulled the cup from #1 cylinder, and as soon as my snake camera is charged, I'm going to take a look down in the cylinder to see if I can find any damage.  Luckily, when the gov was giving PPP loans, I purchased a complete in-frame kit for it in case this were to happen.  It's been sitting in my shop.  We'll see what it looks like inside and go from there.