Dan107

I think it's the metal ring between the nozzle and the housing. For some reason it has expanded and is blocking movement.

I did that, the little round gear seems to be working fine. The one on the turbo is locked down for some reason. This is what happened originally and necessitated me purchasing this one. But I will try it again to make sure.

Not yet. I need to run it, from what I've read, for about a 100 miles or so before it's safe to idle it for any length of time. Something about setting the rings?

Is that possible? IF the engine won't derate, and just posts a code I would consider that. I'm just not sure what turbo, and how it would attach.

I followed the advice here; set #1 TDC, set the cam, then "with a keen eye" set the cam gear. I used a drill bit in the alignment hole. I know it's redneck, but I was desperate.

Yes, there was a warranty, but the dealership wanted me to spend another $5K and then wait to see if it would be warrantied.

Couldn't have done it without all the help I received here!

SHE'S ALIVE!!!! Primed her up and she fired right off, and guess what??? No codes! Other than the turbo actuator isn't working on the brand new turbo I bought a couple of months ago. But I just went for it, and put everything back on and tried to start it. Fired up immediately. I have since started it a few times to let if run long enough to throw a code, if it's going to. So far, no codes other than the turbo. On that note, will the computer derate the engine if the actuator isn't functioning correctly? I have it unplugged now because it seems that it's jammed inside the turbo. Also, if I pin it with the alignment notch, will it still make boost? I know I'm rambling, but I'm really happy with the engine...Thank ya'll!

Are you talking about the large inspection hole or the small bung hole, and is it a dimple mark on a tooth, or a hole in the flywheel I’m looking for? I should have marked this stuff before and this is a prime example of what happens when a person gets in too big of a rush!

Nope, don’t have that.

I think in the morning I'm going to try and run my snake camera up from the bottom and see if I can find those timing marks.

Is the "O" where a person can see it, or is it in front of the transmission?

Hey, on this engine is there a hole in the flywheel for a dowl alignment tool like on a CAT engine? It supposed to assure the engine is TDC. Or, is there some mark on the flywheel that is visible from the bottom?

Cylinder 1 pic.

Hey all! On the question of the head, I ordered a new, fully loaded one! Had an old diesel tech take a look at it and thought it best. I didn't want to take a chance on there being something damaged we couldn't see. Plus, I spent nearly $3k having the old head serviced when #2 cylinder cracked a couple of years ago. With that being said, I think I may have really screwed up! My assumption was that with the cam gear having timing marks on a couple of teeth, that the idler gear would also have a corresponding single tooth marked...we all know what happens when we assume! Now I can't find an understandable solution on how to get this set correctly without excess work and expense. So, once again I come to ya'll for help.

#1, #3, #6 are all scored! I did do a leak down on the other cylinders (#3) and the only place I could hear air leaking from was the oil fill tube. I pulled the pan before pulling the head and used soapy water to spray up along the bottom of the piston and cylinder....bubbles, bubbles, and more bubbles. Anyway, the head is pulled and I will start pulling sleaves and pistons tomorrow. I'm also going to take the head and have it checked while it's off. I want to thank all of those that helped me here, @fjh, @Onyx610, @Joey Mack you don't know how much it has helped being able to bounce things around and get suggestions. Thank ya'll!

Leak down done this morning and I can hear air coming from the oil fill tube....

I was aware of this before the delete. When looking into it, I found if it wasn't done properly, there was a heat problem and sometimes head/valve failure. "Supposedly" the provider for mine said it wasn't the case with their software. As I said, I have been running strong with this truck for years after the delete. While it is possible, the way I have mine set up, I don't think there is a heat issue related to the delete. But, one never knows.

No EGR cooler on this one...it's deleted and a I fabricated a crossover tube to take care of the coolant flow. It's a deleted engine, has been for the last 4 years.

Some may not like this, but I found a "heavy duty" diesel compression tester at the Harbor with a Volvo adapter. I'm going this morning to pick it up. For someone like me, this may do the trick. Don't hate!

I don't have anything like that, or access to it.

I have access to an automotive leak down tester. Not sure if it is compatible with this engine though. Do you think one of those type will work?

So, could all this be just a faulty injector?

I saw nothing on the outside of the cup. Still shines. The injector was really sooted up at the nozzle though and I cleaned them up when I changed the cups before. Don’t know if that means anything.

You are correct sir, I got a quote today for $1500 drive out, with the gasket needed between the canister and the block....So, I did clean it up and put a "rebuild" kit in it. It was nothing but a set of new gaskets. The internals seem clean, and free of damage. The wheel spinner turns freely. It was running oil out at 1100RPM's and stopped when I went back to idle. I had spoken with another diesel engine tech and was told to do another injector cut-out test to see if the blowby decreased when cylinder 1 was turned off. 952000 miles on this truck, and I've had it since 533000. There are a few video's of the internals being cleaned, and as I mentioned, a "kit" is sold to replace the o rings inside. I pulled the valve cover off, and it looks like I have very fine particles of metal up top. Granted, they are like a fine powder, but looks and feels like metal to me. I've pulled the cup from #1 cylinder, and as soon as my snake camera is charged, I'm going to take a look down in the cylinder to see if I can find any damage. Luckily, when the gov was giving PPP loans, I purchased a complete in-frame kit for it in case this were to happen. It's been sitting in my shop. We'll see what it looks like inside and go from there.