msbulldog601

On 7/11/2023 at 6:11 AM, Joey Mack said:

Rotten battery ground cables...  String enough to light a light bulb, but can't carry amps for cranking.. there is an acc. Relay behind the center of the dash under the cup holders.. it looks like a Ford starter relay..

Can you take a look at the pictures maybe I’m over looking the relay in the center of dash under the cup holders 

2 hours ago, fjh said:

i second the relay

@fjhthanks for always responding and helping as well. 

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Rotten battery ground cables...  String enough to light a light bulb, but can't carry amps for cranking.. there is an acc. Relay behind the center of the dash under the cup holders.. it looks like a Ford starter relay..

Thanks I will go take a look today and get back with you always very helpful and i appreciate you! 

Hello i have a 92 Mack CH 613 Daycab I haven’t used the truck in about a year it usually fires right up with turn of the key. I noticed the last time I crank the truck and turned it off a few days after I came to the truck that the roof light was on so I turned it off didn’t think to turn the truck on. Few weeks later I went to the truck to turn the truck on No start I turned over slowly so I said it must be the batteries I hooked to my other truck for boost with jumper cables it would turn on but turn off after I get off the accelerator. I didn’t have much time to investigate that day. I came back a few weeks later put the key in the truck it’s all the way dead so I went got my new batteries out of my other Mack same model placed in that truck and it’s still dead turn key forward no lights come on dash like I didn’t turn the key forward what could be the issue? Thanks for your help. 

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

always good to hear updates especially when they are positive. thanks

Yessir thank you all!!! 

3 hours ago, fjh said:

I suspect the relay picture one is the culprit! picture two is the start relay!  picture two looks to be the accessory relay ! That one controls everything for the dash the heater fan etc ! There are two different versions of that  cole hearsay relay Constant duty and periotic duty! Be sure you have the right solenoid ! Check for power on both sides  should be power one side on the big wires and power on both when the key is turned on! also the small terminals should be power to one and ground to the other! Check power on the one side and Make sure you got ground on the other!

Hey I put the old solenoid back and turned the switch forward lights came on and truck fired right up thanks again!!! 

38 minutes ago, fjh said:

I suspect the relay picture one is the culprit! picture two is the start relay!  picture two looks to be the accessory relay ! That one controls everything for the dash the heater fan etc ! There are two different versions of that  cole hearsay relay Constant duty and periotic duty! Be sure you have the right solenoid ! Check for power on both sides  should be power one side on the big wires and power on both when the key is turned on! also the small terminals should be power to one and ground to the other! Check power on the one side and Make sure you got ground on the other!

Thank you so much for great explanation I will go to the truck and see what I come up with and report back thanks again have a blessed day!

I have a starting issue with my 99 Mack Ch613. I worked Saturday came back Monday night to start it up I got nothing it’s little cold here in Mississippi so I said it must be the batteries I will wait until the morning. Morning came around went to the truck it started to turn over but slow. I went got new batteries and changed out the starter relays with everything in place I get no lights on the dash when I turn the key forward but the engine turn over no start and I also hear a little noise like it’s coming from the dash after a few seconds when the key is tuned forward. I wish I could describe the noise I guess it’s like a little whistle noise. Can anyone point me In the right direction with this issue. You can see the two relay/solenoids I replaced in the pictures thanks again. 

12 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

leaving it in just helps from spilling a bunch of coolant..  no biggie....  it should run at 185..  YOUR WELCOME..  

yessir spilled a bunch lol thanks again 

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes Sir  !!  it works everytime..  

@Joey Mack he think it worked for me I drained the system started to pour coolant back in the reservoir until it was full cracked open the plug I did hear our waited until coolant started coming out tighten it back down filled the reservoir all the way back up turn truck on got the temp up drove it up the road temp gauge did go past 180 like it was doing so should be good now. I did end up pulling the plug all the way out the first time although you said leave it in just a bit. Thanks for all the help. 

7 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

If you want to, you can use a 3/8" extension on a breaker bar, and remove the plug on the top of the front water manifold behind the thermostat housing. As you unscrew it and it gets loose you may hear air come out.. leave the plug in just a bit, then when coolant comes out ,, tighten it up..  For years now, when ever I fill an E-7/E-Tech,  I always remove that plug..  It saves me time and it does very well at bleeding the air..  Jojo

Is this the correct plug (see pictures) just want to be sure? Also crack it open with the engine off to burp like normal? Would you drain everything back out then do this process over or is it okay to see will it work with coolant in the system? 

1 minute ago, BOBWhite said:

There's a pretty cool Vacuum fill coolant tool that you can pick up on amazon that does the job the best. You can keep the whole system under vacuum overnight to see if there are any major leaks like head gasket or air compressor also. 

When you drained the coolant out the second time was it sludgy, black, or seem like combustion gasses had been getting into it? You can send in a sample of your coolant in and have it tested to see if you have to pull the heads. 

Thanks I will have to search for it and no the coolant looked the same as it was when I put it in. 

Hello everyone! 
 

I have a 96 Mack CH613 E7 Engine I recently replaced the cooling line that goes from engine to air compressor a month ago. I drained the system to do that. Filled system back up everything was good. Fast Forward right before Christmas I was working got alerts on the dash raised hood up entire engine was wet radiator has a hole in it. I drained system what was left took radiator off got the small hole repaired I put the radiator back on I filled the system up turned truck on drove it up the road temp starts to go up I said okay it did the same thing when I replaced the air compressor cooling hose I need to add more coolant I pull over took the cap off the coolant is still up in the reservoir. I drove the truck back home I said maybe it will gone down once it sits like last time when I replaced the hose and I’ll continue to add more. This time when I let sit overnight go back to truck it’s still up in reservoir that sits on firewall just a little so I think it’s air in the system. What should I do to correct this? Should I drain the entire system and refill it another way? Please help. Thanks. 

I was curious and wanted to ask do you think these fuel pumps are same and work the same? They look just a like I’m looking to purchase one for my Mack E7… pictures are the one that’s currently on my truck and two I found on eBay thanks. Can I purchase the cheaper one to get the job done? 

I was curious and wanted to ask do you think these fuel pumps are same and work the same? They look just a like I’m looking to purchase one for my Mack E7… pictures are the one that’s currently on my truck and two I found on eBay thanks. Can I purchase the cheaper one to get the job done? 

3 hours ago, 67RModel said:

I think when I did mine I just disconnected that line from the compressor first and aimed it into a large catch pan and let it drain out that way until it stopped. Then disconnected the hose from the side of the block. It took a few minutes but this way I didn't have to drain out any more than I needed to. This was on a 94 RD. If I remember right the radiator drain / lower hose is still a good bit lower than where that hose runs into the block. Either way will work though.

Thanks! 

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Yep, there is a port on the compressor head, top right outer side, on a Bendix. Some of them have a 90 degree drain spout, takes a 9/16" deep socket to open it..  I think about 3-4 gallons is all that will drain.  Easy to do..  

thanks!

4 hours ago, 880joe said:

Yes you will. You need to drain the radiator be starting to replace the line

Thanks! 

On 11/14/2022 at 5:01 AM, Joey Mack said:

Just like Macks said..  it's that easy.. 

thanks!!!

On 11/14/2022 at 3:36 AM, MACKS said:

Take that one off bring it with u an get one made,with that type of end fitting u can make your own,just buy the right size hose,easier to get one made tho..

Okay thanks will I loose a lot of coolant when I take it off? 

On 11/12/2022 at 9:21 PM, Joey Mack said:

Yep...  coolant line to the air compressor... easy fix...  jojo

Thank you is this a part I can get from Mack or will need to get one made? 

My 97 Ch613 is leaking coolant I see it on the ground looked around and saw this threaded line wet and I’m sure it’s coolant that I see on the line. Can anyone identify this line for me so I can replace it? Thanks! 

1 hour ago, Dirtymilkman said:

That would be a great place to start. Some have two sensors, one for gauge and one for the ecm. I would fix that wire and go from there. 

Okay thanks 

On 5/23/2022 at 5:14 PM, Joey Mack said:

check the coolant temp sensor's and the wires...   jojo

Hey check picture I think it’s the coolant temp sensor behind the water manifold and the wires look damaged think I’ve found the issue what you think? @Joey Mack

On 6/1/2022 at 8:59 PM, Dirtymilkman said:

2-2 is coolant temp sensor. Check wiring around sensor and harness,  make sure it's not rubbed through. Could also be bad sensor. It's trying to shut u down when driving. 

Thank you for the suggestion will check the sensor thanks again. 
 

Think I found my issue take a look at the pictures the wire going to what I believe is the coolant temp sensor back of the water manifold correct? @Dirtymilkman