msbulldog601

2 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

Water valve can still leak hot water when fully stroked to off position. Do as Cmac suggested and clamp the hose.

You have no working HVAC fan?

Okay will do and do you recommend changing it out with a new one if clamping the hoses do help? To answer your question correctly, when you say "fan" do you mean the big fan that blows across the radiator & condenser or the ac blower motor in the dash? The large fan is working that mounted in the front of the engine that blows across radiator and condenser. Excuse me for taking you around the world but I wanted to be clear.

3 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

I like the heater water control idea more that the stinger, they were notorious for leaking hot flow, but it can't explain zero air flow and then HVAC system working fine next time you run it? Freeze up would cut your air off completely and stop the air flow.  

I took a clothes hanger and ran it up in the evaporator until it bottom out a few time stuff the stinger back in until it bottom out put everything back together started the truck turn the Ac controls to on still nothing no air flow you can hear like it wants to come on but nothing. The heater control is switched to off I went under the hood and pushed it all the way to the off position. 

On 6/5/2018 at 10:28 PM, YASER said:

 

I think I have 95 ch 613, EM7 300, although I think they are the same.

Hello did you ever post the glove box diagram? I have a 97 Ch 613 and I’m look for fuse diagram mine is missing 

4 hours ago, c-mac said:

clamp off the heater hoses and see if that helps

Okay I will try it once I get the system back up and blowing. Thanks so much for your help and suggestion. 

10 hours ago, fullfuel01 said:

make sure the coolant line are closing properly to the heater radiator. The air is pushed to both radiator before exiting in the cab

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Okay I will check and let you know what I come up with thanks so much for your help and suggestion. 

On 8/24/2019 at 8:38 AM, Mack Technician said:

You failed to properly insert the freeze stinger into the dash evaporator core. It’s too shallow. Your symptom perfectly describes “freeze up”. 

Get a clothes hanger, straighten it, Jam it into the core where the freeze stinger is planted, once it’s hogged out put the stinger in as deep as you can. 

After I use the clothes hanger to open it up and put the freeze stinger line back in what do I do next how do I get things back to working and thawed out since it frozen up? I would like to say also I tried turning the system on just to see what it would do I still get nothing but I do get a smell in the cab a strong smell maybe from the vents. 

I replaced a/c parts on my condenser, air dryer, thermostatic switch in dash, evaporator. I charged the system up it started to blow cold but once I got in the truck to drive it the air started to blow less cool than when sitting at idle. The truck is a 97 Ch 613 Dump Truck(Day Cab). The next day after charging I got up for work turn the ac on still cold when at idle sitting and warmer when driving. Would could cause that? Also while driving the A/C shut off completely on its on so I immediately turn the controls to off until I could pull over. I pulled no over let the hood up turn the controls on I get nothing out the vents not even hot air. Can anyone help me figure this out 1. Why did the air become warmer when driving and 2. Why would it just shut off like it did? 

Hello Everyone,

I'm putting my ac system back together and I noticed that the bracket that the expansion Valve mounts to is loose I can pull it out the firewall with my hand I see there is two bolt holes on the end that goes into the firewall how can I access the bracket holes while it’s in the firewall to put bolts in the holes? I purchased a new evaporator I don’t want that one to get damaged because it’s moving around to much thanks for your help. 

Yes this is the exact replacement... the line to the right runs directly from the secondary air tank to the air drier 2 del port. 

For CH 3LBs or 4 12 Ounce Cans of Freon should be good with 9 fl ounces of PAG 100 Oil should be enough for CH daycare/ dump truck? 

Hello I just purchased a new air dryer for my CH 613 dump truck because the old one that was on the truck valve was destroyed due to uneven off roads that I work on so I by passed it because it was bleeding air constantly until I could make it to my destination. Now that I have a new one on the truck I turn the truck on and it on pulses for maybe 3 to 4 times then do nothing else the air pressure also does not build up but if I back off the hose (circles in pic) slightly that connects to the control port of the air dryer the air start to build but the air dryer still does nothing but the air tank releases the pressure after it builds up do anyone know what’s going on so I can know what to look for? Do you guys think the check valve in the tank bad? 

Also when performing a vacuum I open both sides of the gauge correct? 

On 7/14/2019 at 9:21 PM, Rob said:

In my opinion, yes. Most definitely.

Rob I put the new expansion Valve on and replaced the receiver drier with a new one. I’m now performing vacuum but the readings I’m getting make me worried please take a look... I purchased manifold gauges and vacuum pump from harbor freight and I put the gauges on turn the pump on I see a mist coming from the pump is that normal? 

Should I just replace the receiver drier? 

On 7/13/2019 at 6:26 PM, Rob said:

I like 100 as it's a good medium viscosity oil. Yes, put a capsule of dye into the system. Replace all "O" rings you have taken apart and it's wouldn't be a bad idea to renew the seal a the lineset where it attaches to the compressor and receiver/dryer assemblies too. These sealing rings wear/age over time.

If the  system has been setting idle for an extended time I would replace the drier assembly too. That is the black cannister looking thing in the system under the hood. The evaporator core in the dash would be quite easy to remove to physically clean it with the system dumped and this would greatly help your comfort level once the system is back operational.

I would dump two ounces of PAG oil into the receiver/drier's inlet, button the system up, pull a vacuum on the system allowing it to dwell for an hour, (or more) to thoroughly evacuate any moisture present, then pressurize the system to 50psi with nitrogen administered with your service manifold set. Allow this charge to dwell in the system for an hour and check for any leakdown of pressure to ensure no leaks. If good, evacuate the system again with your vacuum pump and charge according to a vapor pressure charge reflecting the ambient temperature and the refrigerant you are using. System temperatures and pressures change with ambient temperature but ensure you have good airflow over the condenser coil in front of the radiator. A box, or tubeaxial fan is what I use and allow that system to operate in excess of 1/2 hour after you think it's good for stabilization. I hate "comebacks" because I got in a hurry.....

Also is it okay to use the PAG oil with UV Dye? 

21 hours ago, JoeH said:

Yes the vacuum sucks EVERYTHING out. Humidity, freon, oil... It puts a vacuum on the system for a half hour or something. Then the tech switches it over to fill it up.  When I had my car AC fixed 2 years ago the compressor was worn out, wasn't effective at moving the freon, even though it had a full charge.

What #PAG OIL should I use 46 100 or 150? 

1 hour ago, JoeH said:

You're supposed to put an AC vacuum machine on the system first, and use the same machine to pump freon and oil into the system. Atmosphere humidity has gotten into the system from being apart, it will rust your compressor and in a year or so it will seize, and when your AC kicks on the belt will slip on the compressor pulley and you'll eat belts.

Other people may have done it and been fine but I got one year out of the AC on my dodge 2500 before the above happened. Had to buy a non-AC belt to run the bypass belt route.

My A/C has been out for year due to a leak at the expansion Valve it’s just now that I’m fixing the issue since it’s really hot this year. Does the vacuum still matter since the system has been empty and not used? 

Okay Hello Guys I did finally get the expansion Valve loose only used line wrenches I have a question before I put it back together the o rings that goes in the expansion Valve is it okay to lubricate with oil it that does not matter? Also sense I don’t have gauges and a big can of R134 can I use the cans you buy from auto zone with the gauges already on the can like AC Pro to charge the system? 

39 minutes ago, fjh said:

you can also try Any type of penetrating oil  again and air hammer on each nut location! You will need to replace the valve of coarse IF you can get it free! Had  luck with this Technic on a Peter built last month! Assembled with neverseaze on the threads !  

Great! You have been a great help one more question then I’m on my way to try what you suggested... Will the air hammer damage the lines with all that hammering? And should I place the air hammer between the nuts and the Valve to try and hit the threads? 

6 hours ago, fjh said:

Unfortunately going to be a can of worms once you start! If you have an impact hammer try massaging the valve at each flare but location and apply a little heat!

Is there some type of grease/lubricant I can put on the connections to help with getting it to loosen up? Thanks for your much needed hemp I truly appreciate it. 

My 97 CH613 AC has had a leak at the Expansion Valve for years so I haven't used the AC in years the last time I tried to charge the system it did blow cold until all refrigerant was out of the system. In my area it’s really hot and now I think it’s time for some AC. I’m asking is it any easy fix to just replace the expansion Valve then charge the system. I have a picture of the expansion Valve that sits on the firewall. What can I use to get the expansion Valve loose I know the bolts will be trouble. Thanks for your help. 

Hello Everyone,

I'm new to the site and I need help location my windshield wiper fuse. I recently replaced my alternator everything seemed to be fine but it started to rain I tried turning on my wipers and they didn't come on. I'm not saying that they are connected but that was the last work done to my truck. I tried locating the fuse in the fuse panel box on the dash to see was it blown first before I take other measures. If anyone could help me out with this I would really appreciate thanks.