Truck Shop

               Well before we go any further you need to nail down what exact engine you have. Because starting in 94 the L10 became the M11 Celect tier 2 engine, the L10 was mechanical.

               There should be a data plate on the left front of engine telling you what it is.

                    An L9000-1994 with a big cam-It should be a N14 or L10. What color is the engine? Black or tan.

Or go back in time with the narrow hood and produce some like the one I drew and this one that I photoed.

                  Good for you Hurst for staying with it, that's one more saved. Fine work!

                   I always though the 700's looked like one of these except mack got the grille upside down.

                                     There are only two prototypes left, Rick Nocks {I think that's his name] has one that came from Portland area. And this one here , Rick contacted me about this one. But I think it's a little too rich for everyone's blood. 

                    The Kubota four cylinder that is used in Carrier refrigeration units on our trailers have been the best little diesels. Only ever lost one injector pump on over 340 different trailers and it had 19,000 run hours on it. 

   Studebaker, 1937 J15. Waukesha or Hercules.

                                   A bit out of the way, but I know of a L cab 73 setting in Royal City, Wa. frame, cab and radiator look to be there. Not sure on fenders or hood . That stuff could be there also.

 Movie Star

On 2/6/2020 at 10:46 AM, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

I would like to kick his ass for cutting up those trucks. I would love to have had one of them.

                 Well here buy this rusty pile. https://kpr.craigslist.org/hvo/d/dayton-56-mack-b75-wrecker/7051918187.html

                          This 11" is not a bad fit, from a Freightliner 90's model FLD.

                   That was not a Mercury, looks very much like a Truck Trailer built.

                             Does the shifter move fore and aft when you let off the fuel or accelerate slightly? More than likely main shaft end play? Would be my thought.

                     Should be a E-6 valve, sure you don't have the ports mixed up? you have supply going to delivery-Supply should be IIRC 11 and delivery 12- on primary and secondary supply 21 and delivery 22. IIRC

One other thing I used was Bostik 1100 urethane/adhesive to hold the weather striping in the register tracks and the two vertical seals in the vent windows. Those were originally riveted but using the 1100 and letting it set 24 hrs you can't tear them out.

We use the 1100 to patch the inside of our refer trailer walls. When it drys it's stuck for good.

One extra thing to help besides using tape. I used duct tape around the rolled edge of the opening in the door then smeared a thin layer of Napa brand Sil Glyde on the duct tape. The registers slid right over the tape/ no scratches.

On the early FRO's the shift fork in the rear section was held in place with a snap ring, those are known to break. You will have to remove the transmission and remove the top cover/shift bar housing. You will be able to see the shift fork

and shift bar. Snap ring goes on end of shift bar. It's a simple fix. I have repaired several for that problem.

                     Save them Bee's

 With cab and fenders removed and frame basically stripped, I went over my B75 with wire brush and scraper and never found any thing that resembled a serial number. And mine has the B cab.

                             Way too far away, Wa, St.

                                              HBIS 600  672 cu.in.

                                              https://www.dieselworldmag.com/diesel-engines/where-old-cummins-diesels-go-to-live-again/

                              I have friend that has a 180 with a blower I'll have to look at it.