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Posts posted by Willie dog
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On 12/24/2017 at 3:19 PM, Keith S said:
Thanks a million. I need the hinges themselves, I'll take the door, latch, and box if they are any good.
Look at where the hinges attach to the dash frame under the glove box area and see if the end is in fact welded to the dash frame.
Again, thanks a ton.
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19 hours ago, Hobert62 said:
I used to get off 81 and deliver to Woodstock(forget exit #). Went down the hill crossed the tracks turned right at the sheetz and went 11 south for just a little. On the right hand side we had a small building we leased off a guy. We had holsum bread trucks there I'd bring a trailer down and they'd pick there loads to deliver locally.
Good progress on the truck
I know the place your talking about. It's a pool and spa supply company now.
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3 minutes ago, h67st said:
Nothing like that feeling when it fires up! Keep at it.
Absolutely. I'm in too deep to stop now.
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13 minutes ago, carlotpilot said:
where are you edinburg new market?
Just outside Woodstock.
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24 minutes ago, carlotpilot said:
aww ya could a goosed it once
I did, the capfull of gas didn't last long enough.
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Got all the wiring harness installed, everything works except the front lights. (no front sheet metal yet)
Poured a little gas down the carb, turned the key on and pushed the starter button, she fired up after about 4 revolutions. I didn't want to run for long with no radiator in yet. 5 seconds was long enough to know it will run. THE OLD TRUCK GODS ARE PLEASED!
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3 hours ago, eddeere said:
That's how mine are supposed to be. Thanks for the picture. I might be able to make some if I can't find them. Nice looking dash BTW.
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1 hour ago, Hobert62 said:
I'd like to see a picture of what they are supposed to look like. Mine just has a piano hinge screwed fast.
I'd like to see a picture also. Must be a common thing to break. I had one left and it looked like a pretzel.
They are welded to the dash frame and attach to the door by two screws. Hard to describe but they're there.
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Is there ANYONE out there in B model land who has a junk cab they would be willing to sell the glove box hinges out of? Mine are completely missing. They are welded to the dash and would have to be cut out.
I'll even pay for shipping and for the time it takes to cut them out. Thanks in advance.
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2 hours ago, Hobert62 said:
My opinion is I didn't trust 55 year old wiring with brittle insulation and decades of hack jobs. I cut every wire out of the truck and started new. I started with a 14 circuit universal street rod kit from ebay. I have 3 circuits not currently used, i plan on one for a radio and 1 for elec wipers. I put 2 of the marine power plugs in fxfymn mentioned. They came in a panel on ebay, but I threw that away. Their plastic with a big plastic nut on the back to secure(just drilled a hole). 1 is a USB plug other is cigaret style. I think have 5 circuits I ran through relays also. High & low beam, trailer lights, and 2 for tractor lights. I like the alternator idea also, but I know where your coming from on the look. On our 2 johndeere's I still have the generators because they are right out in the open and an alternator looks way out of place. The farmall is hid under the hood so that got changed.
Beautiful. That is exactly what I plan to do. New wiring harness, looks original while modernizing it. I may even incorporate the old original fuse panel to appear stock original......make it so it will flip down and have the new fuse panel behind it. Open the glove box and you can see the old panel, behind it is the new one.
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Thanks everyone for the great info. It's always good to get different opinions and experiences from different sources. That's why I like this group so much. No one judges anyone or bashes anyone's posts.
Unlike some of the antique cars for sale groups I belong to on Facebook. UGH! Don't even get me started on that.
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Thanks everyone for the info and advice. I'm sure I'm making it harder in my mind than it actually is. I've re-wired a few projects with the universal harnesses and had no problems. The positive ground issue kinda threw me off a bit.
Still not sure if I should change the ground or not. Any other thoughts?
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Great info and thoughts.
My main thought for the conversion is to be able to use an aftermarket, universal wiring harness. I want to make sure I can use such a thing to replace the original. I have looked at reproduction factory wiring harnesses but I am having a hard time swallowing the $1200 to $1600 price tag for them. Call me cheap but I gotta save where I can.
I'm not much of an electrical engineer, I know just enough to be dangerous.
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5 minutes ago, h67st said:
If you're going to do all that, you should convert to an alternator.
I was hoping to keep it looking original while modernizing it a bit.
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I know this topic has been discussed before but I can't seem to find any of the posts.
What is involved in converting a b model to negative ground? I know I have to reverse the leads on the heater fan and probably the ammeter gauge and fuel gauge. Any other things to watch for or change?(besides the battery leads and changing the polarity of the generator)
What might be the pros and cons of doing this?
I am considering using a 8 circuit universal harness from EZ wiring or one of the other companies.
Thanks for any input from you guys.
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57 minutes ago, 41chevy said:
When do you want my mixer do do??
I can start the second Tuesday of next week. 😁
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7 hours ago, Freightrain said:
You have the steering box off, so I can't see why you can't stick it up through the hole when you re install it? I think it is just most guys don't have the box off and that is why they have to raise it up over the shaft.
That is turning out to be quite a masterpiece. Outstanding work!
After thinking about it and remembering the beginning of the project, I took the column and box out before raising the cab. I'm pretty sure I can thread the needle by going from underneath the cab.
You did ease my mind after reading your post. Thanks!
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27 minutes ago, Hobert62 said:
I think I remember reading on here something about having to have the steering box inplace and lowering the cab down over it.
Oh crap....I hope that ain't the case.
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1 hour ago, Hobert62 said:
Pretty sure if I would have done that I would have better odds of getting myself damaged then the cab by doing it myself.
That thought crossed my mind.
It sure was easier to remove it than put it back on. I didn't have to worry about scratching anything taking it off.
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3 hours ago, 29Bowtie said:
What an incredibly sanitary build! I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.
Me too actually. 😁
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On 9/25/2017 at 1:38 PM, russell t said:
willy, I am restoring a BM with rubber spring mounting pads similar to the front ones on your truck. I would like to know a source for these mounting pads if you were able to find any new ones. Thank you in advance
Sure, I'm always looking for parts sources. Thanks.
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Just now, 66dc75 said:
That's purty
Thank ya'.
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Managed to get the cab on by myself last night with no damage. I used 3 ratchet straps crisscrossed across the cab floor and used the engine hoist to raise it up and place it on the frame. It was a challenge to balance it and roll the hoist at the same time. I almost went in and woke up my wife to give me some assistance.
I may regret having it on there now with all the climbing up and down I'll be doing. 😁🤤
Don't pay any attention to the plastic sheeting on the rest of the body, I gotta keep it covered while I paint all those pieces that seem to come out of the woodwork when it's going back together.
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13 hours ago, russell t said:
good work, I am sure you will enjoy the finished product
I can't wait to get it on the road, it will be a totally different experience than what I'm used to.
B model glove box with hinges
in Parts for Sale
Posted
Yup. It was me. I'll take what I can get at this point.