Full Floater

12 minutes ago, terry said:

If you don’t want to drain it, tip it up so gear oil is in the other end.   Terry

Great suggestion.   It's due for an oil change anyway, since it's a new to me trans and I have no record of service history.  So this is my calling 

Thanks gents.

I'll try the silicone! 

Excuse the dirt and grime, the steam cleaner is coming out.

In the bellhousing side of the 107 6 speed, I have one of these square caps (countershaft caps?) leaking a bit.  Is there a gasket kit for these?

You're probably looking at the right tag, passenger side of the engine kind of behind and above the injection pump.   I also have a "newer" (1983) EM-6 that doesn't have the engine "family" category on the tag.   That category MIGHT be a thing only on earlier engines.   All my pre 1977 engines have that.   And the B family apparently are Dynatard engines.

That's not to say that yours is not compatible....just I don't know how to identify it further.  Maybe someone knows what to look for under the valve covers/valve train

4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

no..  you saw the condition of the crank..  If it was perfect.... 'roll-on'..  or ... do what you think you need to do...

The crank looked good, to my naked eye, and the sleeve is sure tight after cooling down, so I "think" it should be leak free

I do recall the seal being recessed a fair bit.  I didn't measure it.  The flywheel and clutch are assembled now. 

Now, do I need to pull it apart to put a sealant under the wear ring?

1 hour ago, fjh said:

Good job bro never tried doing either of those methods nice to know it worked! Just a side note the fly wheel will push the wear ring in a tad so make sure your seal is in deep enough that it doesn't rub the dust lip! the other worry is  the wear ring being heated you would have no sealant under the ring! we had one of these cause a three time re and re in the worst model flat fender RD  12 speed due to the ring slipping on the crank once the engine warmed up due to a poor wiper  ring install!

Just sayin!

Hmmmmm.....good point on the sealant.

The manual did state to heat the ring to 400*f and made no mention of sealant..

Just an update.  This is the rear main seal and wear ring kit that I purchased.   Fitment was perfect.  Heated the wear sleeve up and it slid over the crank flange with little effort and cooled to a tight fit.  Froze the rear main seal and was able to get it seated fully into the housing without using the special service seal tool.

https://www.woodlineparts.com/products/pai-ekt-3800-mack-57gc186a-rear-seal-and-wear-ring-kit-made-in-usa?_pos=1&_sid=5edee4cc7&_ss=r

On the engine tag, does it say "B" in the engine family category?

I do believe there are some B engines, that simply didn't come with the actual retarder as maybe they were not speced out to have a retarder by the purchaser.   I have a 237 engine family B, that doesn't have the Dynatard.  But as far as I know, I could install one if I wanted to.

Anyone ever put a main seal in the freezer prior to install in the housing, to shrink the OD of the seal to ease install?

Just curious

Revisiting an old thread.

I am wanting to replace a not working square, bolt on heater adapter with a conventional style heater element.  Like the 81 and newer trucks have, mostly for ease of future replacement and parts availability down the road.

Can this be made to happen with the existing water jacket plug/bushing that is currently housing the bolt on heater, OR should I use one of the other water jacket plugs?

Im thinking something like this might work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173017045115

4 hours ago, fjh said:

OTC T30 tire bar works best just the right hook angle but on e6 you need to be careful where you pry the seal housing is aluminum pry next to a bolt! works on E9 E7 E6 just be careful with aluminum bell housings!

Could it be taken off with the seal housing removed?  And just to confirm, the seal gets installed into the housing "prior" to installing over the crank, correct?   And is RTV adequate for a seal housing sealant or is there a gasket needed?

Fjh....I see you are from BC?   Me to.

I ordered 2 seal/wear ring kits in case I mess one up haha

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

can you make a flat plate with a few holes in it an d even take  it up with bolts to push the wear ring on til its flush,  then use the flywheel to recess the wear ring.. I beleive the flywheel fits over the crank hub just a bit  around 1/32nd "  ..  anyone else ever done that?  I have on an E-7 in a pinch..

Now that's an idea!!!

Those were EXACTLY my thoughts on the wear ring removal!!  Glad to hear our thoughts are alike!

Installing the seal is what has me a bit concerned, without the tooling.   

This is the (upside down) part number off of the Mack branded rear main seal.  Appears to be the lip type seal, not the lead seal.  This one is a little oily (I cleaned it for the pic) so I guess I will be replacing it.  Looks like there is a wear ring on the crank that someone pounded on with a drift..    You can see the marks.  I haven't looked close enough at it yet to confirm if that's a wear ring, but im going to assume so.

Looks like they are still available here and there.  Hopefully with the plastic install sleeve.  I don't have the $700 install tool however.....

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Don't recall if it was square?  You would think a regular round one would suffice.  Even if not available from Jacob, you should be able to come up with something online.

Measure the bore that it fits into and work backwards.  

Yeah maybe it started off round I guess

Sort of off topic, but what model turbo is that?

Does anyone know if this O-ring on the adapter fitting for the oil feed to the jake assembly thru the rocker, is still available thru Jacobs?  Looks like a specific square style oring.  I'm reluctant to reuse it

According to the parts list on their site, its a .365IDx.07W   

On 8/9/2022 at 6:24 AM, Freightrain said:

I bolted jakes on my 237, no problems.  I'm trying to recall it used longer head studs in certain locations?  Heck, been 5? yrs so I can't recall.  But if you are swapping between engines, then you should have everything to do it and have two running engines.

I have noticed that the tall bolts for the rocker housing are longer, to accommodate the jake assembly

16 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

On the old engines that used the lead wire on the crank the crank had a slinger for throwing the oil out and that is what kelp the oil from leaking but the lead wire seal was only a dust seal.We pull the cover off ever time we did a clutch and rolled a now wire in the cover.A later seal cover could be used there but the seal was a very narrow seal because the crank was short there as a sealing area.

Is the later seal a preferable replacement?

6 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

lead wire

That's the stuff.   

Now is the protocol to update the lead wire...if it hasn't already been done, to a new style?

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Forgive me, but is a 675 still an E-6?  Like an ENDT 673?  If so, I bought a rear main seal tool for both E-7 and E-6, from Tillmantool.com. 

Sure seems as if a lot of parts interchange between the E6....not sure exactly what's what with that.

2 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

another tech advancement by sounds. rear main seal use to be a piece of babit . now there was a challenge; rolling that into the rear seal housing. trial and error in/out till it was perfect. 

Yes, the manual that I have, shows and describes this process.  I hadn't seen it before and it scared me haha.   It also shows a lip style seal and states there are a few different options.   I try to acquire the parts I need prior to tearing into something but maybe I should tear into this and find out exactly what is in there.   OR just leave it alone