Full Floater

Those were EXACTLY my thoughts on the wear ring removal!!  Glad to hear our thoughts are alike!

Installing the seal is what has me a bit concerned, without the tooling.   

This is the (upside down) part number off of the Mack branded rear main seal.  Appears to be the lip type seal, not the lead seal.  This one is a little oily (I cleaned it for the pic) so I guess I will be replacing it.  Looks like there is a wear ring on the crank that someone pounded on with a drift..    You can see the marks.  I haven't looked close enough at it yet to confirm if that's a wear ring, but im going to assume so.

Looks like they are still available here and there.  Hopefully with the plastic install sleeve.  I don't have the $700 install tool however.....

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Don't recall if it was square?  You would think a regular round one would suffice.  Even if not available from Jacob, you should be able to come up with something online.

Measure the bore that it fits into and work backwards.  

Yeah maybe it started off round I guess

Sort of off topic, but what model turbo is that?

Does anyone know if this O-ring on the adapter fitting for the oil feed to the jake assembly thru the rocker, is still available thru Jacobs?  Looks like a specific square style oring.  I'm reluctant to reuse it

According to the parts list on their site, its a .365IDx.07W   

On 8/9/2022 at 6:24 AM, Freightrain said:

I bolted jakes on my 237, no problems.  I'm trying to recall it used longer head studs in certain locations?  Heck, been 5? yrs so I can't recall.  But if you are swapping between engines, then you should have everything to do it and have two running engines.

I have noticed that the tall bolts for the rocker housing are longer, to accommodate the jake assembly

16 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

On the old engines that used the lead wire on the crank the crank had a slinger for throwing the oil out and that is what kelp the oil from leaking but the lead wire seal was only a dust seal.We pull the cover off ever time we did a clutch and rolled a now wire in the cover.A later seal cover could be used there but the seal was a very narrow seal because the crank was short there as a sealing area.

Is the later seal a preferable replacement?

6 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

lead wire

That's the stuff.   

Now is the protocol to update the lead wire...if it hasn't already been done, to a new style?

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Forgive me, but is a 675 still an E-6?  Like an ENDT 673?  If so, I bought a rear main seal tool for both E-7 and E-6, from Tillmantool.com. 

Sure seems as if a lot of parts interchange between the E6....not sure exactly what's what with that.

2 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

another tech advancement by sounds. rear main seal use to be a piece of babit . now there was a challenge; rolling that into the rear seal housing. trial and error in/out till it was perfect. 

Yes, the manual that I have, shows and describes this process.  I hadn't seen it before and it scared me haha.   It also shows a lip style seal and states there are a few different options.   I try to acquire the parts I need prior to tearing into something but maybe I should tear into this and find out exactly what is in there.   OR just leave it alone  

Does anyone have any insight as to what crank main seals I should order?  In particular, the rear?  And is there a special service tool needed to install the seal on these?

I have done many a crank seal, but never on a Mack 675....so just want to make sure this guy goes in right.

Thank you for sharing that pic of your lifting apparatus.   I like it.   I am going to try my best to avoid using the head bolts.   I'll see what I can come up with

51 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

I should have a lifting bracket I made for mine.  It's been so long I don't recall what end I bolted it to.  Don't think I used headbolts either even though I pulled the heads off.

I'll see if I can find it and post a picture.

Awesome, thank you.

I'm about to lift 2 different 675, 235hp engines to swap one of them into the other truck.

I have never lifted a Mack engine before and I plan on using a steel cable/strap under the rear of the bellhousing/clutch housing; but still need an idea for lifting the front.   I have read that some have used the valve cover bolts to affix a bracket to (I'm not that brave).   And some have used a couple head bolts.   I am really not wanting to disturb the head bolts on the one good running engine that's being pulled.

Are there any other ideas on a front lifting point?  

Thanks

Is there a particular temp that these engines "like" to run at?  It's cooling system re-fresh time for me on a Canadian 235 and I want to do the thermostat while im in there.  It's in a tow truck that doesn't tow max gvw loads and short trips more then long trips so im thinking a 170 or 180 degree stat

On 10/10/2022 at 9:05 PM, BOBWhite said:

Any updates on this? Been looking for a fix for this and never heard of this kit. 

No updates on my end.   I have several engines that could use this.  I just simply haven't looked any further into it

Yes, I think re-sealing as much as possible is the ticket.  Front and rear mains, timing cover manifold gaskets?  oil pain.  Not the head gaskets.  does the oil cooler have any seals?   It runs and starts great, no blow by, no leaks, no oil in air tanks that I tell.  about 8000hrs on it.   320,000miles or so.  It hasn't been worked as hard as some.   I could just throw it in as is, but i'd like to do a little better then that.   Freshen it up a bit, and bump up the reliability factor.

This is a project for ME to use, not doing this on a customers truck.  It's being made into a single axle rollback truck and will work daily.  With me driving it, no cowboys.

Are there any leak prone seals or anything that would be easier addressed while the engine is out?   It's going into a Western Mack, so narrower frame rails make a few areas like around the compressor and power steering pump, difficult to access. 

Will be swapping a good running ENDT 675 235hp from a truck with a bad body, into another chassis that's already equipped with a 235, but is worn out.  Both are 107 6 speed trucks.

The donor engine runs like a top, but I would like to re-seal or service anything that should get done when the engine is out of the truck.   Rear main, oil pan etc. Im new to swapping these engines, can anyone give me a quick "list" of things I should look at while the engine is out and easily serviced?  It will be getting a new clutch while it's out, jacobs 675 jake heads (overhead adj obviously) and fresh injectors, hoses etc.

This axle is from a 1976 R 685ST

Yes I will be pulling the hubs to give it a good inspection and replace the hub seals for sure and likely the brake linings.  Hopefully I can get a number off the seals when I pull them out.  Will change the gear oil and probably leave the rest alone for now.

Yes I do believe that the "power divider" description in the build sheet might be reference to a LSD type axle, shifting power from side to side instead of axle to axle.   After checking oil levels I will drive the truck over some loose ground with no weight in the back and see if both wheels have a tendency to put power to the ground instead of just one wheel.

I think painting the MACK lettering on the rear of the axle in the same red that the cab is going to be, is and excellent idea.   Let everyone behind me know for sure they are following a pedigree Mack.   May as well throw some Mack "greatest name in trucks" mud flaps on to!

If anyone out there has a service manual for this particular axle, and is willing to sell it.....I'd buy it

8 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I'm no pro, but you reckon the hubs have a seal in the middle, and the wheel bearings are packed with grease, like a B-Model?  

 

I'm totally unsure at this point.  Have not pulled the hubs off this one, yet.

Anyone know the oil grade they require?  I would guess probably 80w-90 but i'd like to go 75w-140, just wanna make sure I don't bugger this thing up by doing that

They can sure bring a man to almost tears.   I have a White Western star that is almost as bad.   Also swapped that to a 39MT on the Big Cam Cum-a-part which made install easier

Thank you.   Yup im hoping it will turn out well.  It's a 23k rating which is exactly what I need for the application it's going into.  And im just fine with spring suspension.  It's fairly low mileage and feels tight