Full Floater

13 hours ago, fjh said:

Sorry bro I have never used the timing tool you speak of!I have on Ambac always set them by spill  or blow ! I remove the delivery valve set close to the desired number and then back up the engine a tad then pull it back to  to check the set! I ran into this once on a v8 the pump shop swore it was to be set at 19 I could not make it clean up after trying several times! I finally got pissed off an set it to 22  which made it run clean an pull good! I blow time ! (A rubber hose on the inlet of the pump) not sure how you’re doing it!  I suggest you jump the timing up the way you’re doing it ,three degrees or so and see if it helps things! Some of the older engines went as high as 30 degrees!
 

just me!

Thanks.   Ya I have an aux electric lift pump on the supply side of the injection pump (on a manual toggle switch, to use for emergency side of the road priming) and it works great for spill timing.  

I will try to fiddle with a timing light on it and i'll report back with results. 

In search of a better way to set injection timing.
I'm working on 2, 237's.  Both with Ambac pumps. One with a fresh rebuild pump and another with a used pump swapped from another engine.   Both engine data plates read 26 degrees at port closing.   I have spilled timed both of them, to as close to 26 degrees as I could manage.   Both engines are running good and sounding good.  However, both engines smoke quite a bit of blue (unburnt fuel) at an idle, especially when cold.   They clear up once i've got my foot into it under load.  The injectors are also fresh rebuilds so it's unlikely that the spray pattern is poor.  And neither engine uses much oil or has much blow by.

So...I figure my spill timing is out a couple degrees, probably retarded.  instead of pulling the delivery valves a few more times and messing around rotating the engine with the hard to reach crank pulley on the Western model R's; I would like to try the pulse type/clamp on timing adapter with a strobe light.  I have a Snap-on and use it on other model engines, no problem.  I haven't tried it yet on the Macks.   

If I clamp this to #1 injector tube, and read the mark on the crank when illuminated by the probe, should I expect to see the actual injection timing illuminated at an idle speed, or at a certain RPM?  I know some engines with an advance mechanism in the pump (like some of the Roosa Master style Stanadyne pumps) require the engine to be at 2000rpm to accurately set timing. 

On 5/5/2025 at 7:29 AM, fjh said:

What ever makes the ya feel better bro ! The main cause for them to fail was nailed down to overspeed situations with dynatard! Bro ! The hard surfaces cracks then delaminates  as it is braised to the lifter ! Just keep the rpm to beneath 2500 and  you will limit your chances of failure! Its too bad they didnt get the fix till E7 came along the newer lifters were one billet and durable!

Interesting, thanks.  Never heard the theory before on the overspeed/dynatard contributions to their failures.  I've never exceeded the 2100 recommended max speed, are rarely reach that, perhaps thats why I have never had one fail.

Do the jabobs brakes, have the same effect on them as the dynatards?   I have 3 with Jacobs on them 

Something that has been on my mind with E6 engines, is the "issue" with the lifters wearing/delaminating/carbide tip falling off, or whatever they do; is I try to use whatever oil has the highest ZDDP content or i'll add a ZDDP additive, in attempt to reduce lifter wear.   Not sure if it does anything or not, it probably doesn't.   But it makes me feel a little better about it

Thank you fellas.  

Aside from a tape measure, from inside of rim to inside of opposite rim, or from some point on the hub, is there any more "accurate" way to align a dayton hub truck at home?  I've always been pretty close with a tape, but with todays tire costs, i'd like to do a little better yet.

On 12/4/2007 at 12:44 PM, Rob said:

If it is a Ross HF64 series, it does need poppet valves adjusted. If one "monkeys" with the poppet valve adjustments without knowlege, or proper tools, they will never be right and will provide the symptoms described. They must be adjusted equally to balance hydraulic steering pressure, (internal) from left to right.

A blown, or partially blown "O" ring on either side of the power piston will give some of the same syptoms.

Rob

Old thread, but just to confirm, they need to be adjusted to relief pressure at or before full lock position in either direction, correct?

And is the compressor supposed to "drain" it's oil into the crankcase somewhere, or is it just free floating oil in the entire acc drive?  As none of my E6's seem to have an oil drain out of the compressor far as I can tell

1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Im pretty sure the seal is only on the pump, I seem to recall that the housing that the compressor bolts to is open to the compressor 

 

Paul

Good to know.   That helps narrow down what needs replacing.  

Old thread here. 

I have a that happening with one of my E6's.  New compressor.   It slowly makes fluid in the PS reservoir, it's black, it's engine oil.  The filter is new, far as I know it's plumbed correctly.  

The oil would be coming from the compressor output shaft I guess.  Would the failed seal be on the compressor, or the power steering pump?

Well I as able to install 2 shims, 7/8" ID, 1 in either direction of movement in this joint.  And that has taken up a majority of the slop.  I am happy with the turnout.   I would consider this a decent at home fix without having to have anything machined.

13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

fjh,,,   I am pokin my brain.   I guess the cover can come out, the rails just go in and out of the case during gear selection...   Gosh I'm rusty..  I really need to build another 107 just to get back in the groove.   

Haha.

18 minutes ago, fjh said:

Nope  just lift the lid ! Use silicone instead of a gasket!

Oh really?   I ordered a gasket kit for it but I do recognize that some situations work better with silicone

I need to pull the top cover, shift tower on a 107 six speed to replace some leaking gaskets.

Is there anything in particular I need to watch out of in removal and installation?  Springs that will fly out and end up on the other side of the yard? shifter orientation?  Etc.

Many thanks.

Yes there is a conventional steering gear box and pitman arm/drag link on the left (drivers) side.   Fluid also leaves the steering box to this assist cylinder on the passenger side.  Which leads me to believe that it cannot be deleted as those ports in the steering box still must flow fluid somewhere

Yes, it's the passenger side.   I have 3 westerns that range from 12k to 20k front axles and they all have them.  The Easterns don't seem to have them.

How about deleting the steering assist cylinder?

On the western model R's.  They seem to have this steering assist cylinder, coupled to the frame with the specific U joint.   

I have 3 of them, all with a fair bit of wear.  Mack has discontinued this part.

What are our options for replacement or re and re?

Thanks

4 hours ago, JoeH said:

Someone said recently that the E6 lifter p/n supercedes to the E7 lifter.

Ah, ok.    Which is a better lifter, correct?

For an future internal E6 work that I do, planned or unplanned.   I'd like to upgrade the lifter and eliminate that problem.

On the topic of lifters.

Is there an upgraded lifter style for the E6 engines?  

Well I bit the bullet, and replaced the box with a reman one.   

Nice and tight now.

If I were to install and electric lift pump today, the FRB series Walbro pumps, is what I would use.    FRB 22 in this case.

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

dead center work steering back/forth making sure not tooo tight and binding

thanks

I still have a little more play then i'd like.  If I can improve it just slightly more yet, i'd be happy.  Not trying to make it perfect, it just needs to be a little better.

I just need to clarify something, before I try adjusting once more.    When I adjust the screw, am I to be doing so with the steering in dead center, OR does it need to be adjusted with the steering turned to one side or another by a bit.   ...to take it out of the high spot in the steering gear. 

Everything else in the steering is tight and/or new.  Including king pins.