Full Floater

1 hour ago, MACKS said:

With the rear mount u don’t have to put the Tran in gear with splitter In neutral ,it works in neutral and also when in gear your body will go up just as fast even if your in first gear,great for running out loads..

Ah good to know!

I just bought another parts truck, with a 6 speed and a side mount with a driveshaft pump.  Never actually seen a side mount on a 6 speed.  Haven't got the number off of it, just something I noticed

On 6/3/2023 at 2:38 PM, MACKS said:

Rear mount pto to remote pump is your only option,get it set up right keeping the drive shaft as short as possible,still way better than a side mount..

Thanks.

Curious as to what is better about the rear mount?  Is it a stronger or more reliable location to mount the PTO, rather then the side?

Thanks.  So all the delivery ports are the same, and all the supply ports are the same, correct?   Just a matter of where the line and fitting fits best?

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

it should unless that's another example of modern day cut backs. might be there just written in foreign language; or maybe no words just pictures for todays border crossers. 

Exactly.  Prime example of cutbacks.   Made in China for sure

I think figuring out which port is supposed to deliver air to the foot valve, would get me going as I would then be able to see which port exhausts air when the pedal is depressed for the front service brakes, as for the rear maxi's, I suppose there would also be air at that port for the foot valve to "release" to apply service brake to the rear

58 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

one other advantage of the days with copper lines; valve proper position , air lines if not bent would line up. port size would place them close also. plastic a different deal.

Definitely. 

I avoid plastic/nylon lines when I can and try to stick with fabric braided lines and JIC style fittings.  

It actually doesn't, but I got a diagram on the www.

Such as this one

http://www.newtruckspring.com/wholesale/bendix-277863x-e-3-brake-valve/

Picked up a 76 600 western that runs and drives but the owner died a few years back, however; the foot valve is out of it, with a new Bendix E3 sitting on the floor to replace it with.   Im wanting to install it on the spot so I can drive the truck home.

I've always just placed the old lines on to the new foot valve as they came off the old valve, not really know which port is supposed to do what.   Can't do that with this one as the old valve is gone.

-Does the supply air for both front and rear service brakes come from the "delivery" or "supply" ports on the foot valve?

-Also, which port is supposed to supply air to the foot valve itself?

This should steer me in right enough direction to get me going without too much crossing lines.

7 hours ago, MACKS said:

Why not use a speedy sleeve,that’s what there for and u can use the same seal as without the sleeve.just asking..

Not a smaller ID seal needed when running a speedi sleeve?

I have yet to speak with a drivetrain shop to see what they might know of, as to what's out there or what can be made.

On 5/29/2023 at 7:05 PM, b61fred said:

Well I removed the governor and found the culprit! The internal shaft on the throttle was worn just enough to slop around. I made a video on YouTube to describe what was wrong and what I done to fix it if you want to see. 
thanks for all your help.

 

Awesome!  Thanks for sharing the video and your findings.  Can't wait to watch it.

I notice this on all my Mack E6's.  The gov springs in general seem to be a weak link on these and can be very touchy.  I bet the slight load, or lack there of it when the compressor is off, throw the gov springs off slightly.  

I wouldn't worry about it much, although it can be a bit annoying.   

But hey, it's way better then a new truck with a check engine light

5 hours ago, Full Floater said:

Yes, I'll take some pics.   The Stemco number is 320-2137, crosses to a Voyager 383-0164.   I did manage to find some early seals at Finditparts online and ordered them for on the shelf for later.  But the Voyagers are the only thing I can get here locally at any of the jobbers

Stemco 2 piece vs Voyager.  The voyager went in nice and smooth and seemed to fit well.   Running Lucas Hub oil.  Will see how it lasts.

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

can you clean the old seal and post a picture of it and the seal number???  If I can get info I will post it for you..  Hell, i'll buy the seals and send them to you..  

Yes, I'll take some pics.   The Stemco number is 320-2137, crosses to a Voyager 383-0164.   I did manage to find some early seals at Finditparts online and ordered them for on the shelf for later.  But the Voyagers are the only thing I can get here locally at any of the jobbers

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

ok.. there wont be a dowel hole..  I have seen them on later models..  just do like your doin' take measurements.  do you have an ''Allied bearing co.'' near you..  If you have the old seal, there should be a part number on it..  Allied is pretty good at getting seals.  I just re-built a ''Roots'' blower, and they were able to get the seals I needed....

I wish I had an Allied Bearing Co, near me.   ....or anything good for that matter.    

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

do you mean the steer axle???   What year model?  If it's the steer axle, there is a dowel pin hole in the spindle to secure the inner wear ring..  no biggie, just see if it's there.  jojo

Yes I did mean the steer axle.  1975 R with 18.000lbs front.  I will have a close look for that dowel pin hole, thanks!   I just pulled the old wear ring off to get measurements and such to confirm the right new seal, will get back at it later today

I have been struggling to find Stemco 2 piece seals lately.  Found a set for the rear axle on the s/a R that im putting together, but nothing for the front.  So Voyager it is.  We'll see how it goes.   I don't know what's best these days but Im only familiar with the Stemco's on the old iron that I have.  If Voyagers last, well I guess that may be the ticket.  I assume they are easier and quicker to install, and they seem to be available 

4 minutes ago, MACKS said:

 

What’s don’t u like about it,had one for years with no issue?

Not trying to hyjack this post, but my personal beef with them is the extra space they take on an application that's space limited.   And the added moving part (driveshaft), which is kind of a moot point, but it's always nice to eliminate extra moving parts when possible

On 5/25/2023 at 5:32 AM, Fastduramax said:

Anyone know if a direct drive C102 hydraulic pump will bolt up to a 12 speed Mack rear mount PTO or know of one that will ? These drive shaft driven units suck ass ! 

Good question.  Im casually on the lookout for something for a rear mount pto on a 6 speed.   I'll report back if I find something

Mine showed up today AND it was the right one!!!  That's always nice.

I managed to fit the spray nozzle of of Fluid Film can into the cable sheath and held a rag super tight around it and gave er all the way and got Fluid Film coming out of the opposite end after a while.   It was a little messy but that was a quick and easy way to pre lube the cable!

Sounds like my closest dealing thinks they found the right one.   It's on order....we'll see what happens

Where is a good place to start looking for a clutch cable replacement for my 75 R600? Mine's not broken, just want to stay ahead of that game.   Is this s dealer item?  How do I measure it to know what length this particular cable is.

Regards

Thanks very much everyone.

One more question, which perhaps has already been answered and I missed it?  ....but is there an option for a married pump to mate to the rear mount existing pto?  Since it sounds like a wise idea to leave the pto itself, alone.