1965

That dude is LONG!

Looks like doing nice job; don't understand the jalopy part; looks like nice truck for what I can see of it; just curious was the 350 messed up?

I looked for bulldogs, but I didn't see any.

If it were a bulldog out there would you have picked it?

Put several clutches in putting all on input shaft; all you got then is to get in pilot bearing; tighten bell housing then turn & install pressure plate bolts; easy & quick

Check with the dealer by serial # if the truck was equipped with a Solo clutch. If you rotate the clutch 360 deg. And only find a tab with a channel to slide that tab left to right it is a self adjusting Eaton Solo clutch. They are quite common but in most cases I install adjustable clutches when replacement time comes due.

Yea that's what it is; Thanks

Was going to adjust clutch & can't find adjustment mechanism; or just don't know what am looking for; clutch brake works fine but pedal lets to far up for my liken; seen a lot of different styles in my day but not like this; unless I missed it; anybody know about this type I would appreciate any information; thanks

Great score!!!

Use a flat file on both sides & clean real good; they make some spray on magni flux stuff to check for cracks; I've used it before; works good

Just reflecting on how times have changed... If I was shopping for a new truck 20 years ago, I would have looked at the competition but bought a Mack. Natural choice would have been an RB or RD with a Maxidyne engine, 6 speed Maxitorque with the low hole, and of course Mack axles all around. What's changed- Today Mack don't even make that combination. You'll have to fight just to get any kind of manual transmission, and while the Volvo engines are cleaner than Mack's, they're a lot more complicated and thus unreliable.

Glad I retired from driving truck, and all I do is write 'bout 'em now.

They got the Maxidyne (M)

They got the 6 speed Maxitorques

T306G

TM308

TM308M

TM309

TM309M

They got the top load rearends

Nice

sunset Rita Island north Queensland as I said not as pretty

Paul

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What is in front of that roller; some type of plow to knock the rows down; never seen one of those; have seen & drove plenty of them 86 series (farmall's) IH

Cups come with the injector kit. Change them when you change the injectors cause they are usually messed up from the injector "walking" around in the cup

Aways do the cups as well. And they will almost always be bad. I think the proper name for the tool required to set the cups is a "SWEDGE TOOL" and it is specific to the injector cup. McMahon in Nashville is good. Legacy in Somerset and Bedford pa are really good. Any of the rr locations in oh are good. M&k in Michigan are ok but are a bit high for labor. Susquehanna near Williamsport pa are good.

And yes the inectors will need programmed. Como rail in 2017. Can't wait till 18 when they finally get the bugs worked out.,I'm placing my order now.. lol

Two different twos for swedging (installing) cups. One for copper cups and one for stainless. Stainless are the replacement and current production. I'm curious to see common rail setup I keep hearing about.

Thanks for all the information; don't know what am going to do

When the common rail engine comes out reakon how long before we can trust that they have it right? Sold my 09 model because scared of having cup problems, knew it had 2 replaced (copper) got a low mile 12 model thinking at least won't have to worry about cup issues; thinking ought to trade this for a new one & get best warranty then trade when the common rail engine comes out & have some warranty still left for maybe good trade in value; but hate to be the ginnie pig on the new engine

Careful means" get it fixed before it leaves you sit" tow charges are expensive and leaves you vulnerable to over the road repairs that are never done right. If you can't trust your dealer, I would suggest you find one that you can. I would not recommend anyone do their own on a blog. Everyone's skills are different. I can say that we have a dealer do all of ours. If the truck is out of warranty, mack or volvo dealers can do them. If you need a good dealer. I can recommend serval in different regions. Also, if you become a polite pest and as the regional service rep to get involved, he can offer some assistance depending on the situation.

You are just talking about injectors; the cups should be ok

The only problem I would have if something has to be programmed into computer; I'm sure it is but could I put them in & then take it to the dealer & let them program it; or have them make a service call & come to me & program it; I really rather do it myself; My dealer is in memphis & they just don't have good attitude; at least the mechanics I've talked to & service manager is no better; that's just my opion. Thanks

I'll PM you all the info tomorrow along with my cel #. Thank you, Paul

Ok sounds good

I think I sent you a pm

Just letting you know I've lived in OB my entire life; I'd be happy to help if I can

Sorry to say but the miss will get progressively worse and it will happen quickly. Be careful when it becomes a full blown miss between 12 and 1400. You will also start to experience extremely hard starting. It is also much cheaper in the long run to do all 6. If you dont, you will be opening it up again in another couple months. Make sure they also adjust the valves when they reassemble. The test for bad injectors is pretty simple, the tech will check for air returning out of the head.

What do you mean when you say (be careful) when it becomes a full blown miss between 12 & 1400? Is it something I can harm or something; I have only felt that 1 or 2 times; also can I change the injectors myself; I would rather do it myself where I can run the overhead myself; don't trust my Mack dealer Thanks

I'm new to the forum but extremely knowledgeable about the injectors and cups. Especially on 2011 models to current with MP8 /D13. I have 38 pinnacles. There is no cure for the problem. There have only been very minor attempts at improvements. . The problem is really not copper or stainless or even installation. Most MV techs and service managers know the problem exists but no one including the engineers have a good handle on the reason for failure. MV has blamed the problem on everything from dirt getting in the tanks thru uncovered tank vents to fuel and fuel pressure related to the current emissions requirements. There has been 10 releases of updated injectors claiming that the newest injector and cup is the cure but ultimately it's not. The only protection for the one truck owner or a fleet is to spend the money and buy an extended warranty.if your hard to start, have a cut out miss between 12 and 1400 rpm's,and no codes, it's injectors...... other than injectors,minor VGT turbo calibration issues and some other PITA sensors, the trucks are good.

Now the good news. MV is releasing a common rail fuel system in 2017 ( not model year 2017).

I just bought a 2012 Chu; I have noticed that cutout before; my truck doesn't seem to pull good in that 1200 to 1400 rpm range & I have felt a cutout; my question is do I need to put injectors in; or have them put in or can I run it till it gets worse; seems like it does good above the 1400 rpm range; what would you suggest? Thanks

Yea I plan too; I feel like I have a good relationship with the analysts that did my 09 model; I called them when got my results from the 12 model to verify all the readings they were Analysts, Inc. (Steve good guy) helped me out

When the guy at Mack where I had the firist experience with def tank he ran a manual regen & everything looked great with the proper numbers; you know when doing a stopped regen your engine goes through cycles where engine changes tunes; I asked him he said that engine is opening & closing egr valve & turbo changing it's vaines to build heat; I asked about settings & he said all was good or regen wouldn't done right

Wonder if it's a tps setting or maybe a bad tps; just really feels like it's in the pedal

Or do they just go bad & no response at all

i had them clean it for good measure; the 09 truck I bought from dealer also; they said it showed it didn't need cleaning got it home & reading & listening to everyone (270000 miles on it) I pulled it apart for my curiosity; they service writer at Mack where they have the proper machine to do said it was the worse she had seen; so I told myself I would have done if bought another from dealer

Def is another story; according to salesperson that all there used trucks gets the regen & total system checked out firist to make sure all that works proper; well I didn't even open the top on the def tank; bought this truck 600 miles from me & about 200 of it coming home had service light come on; long story short someone had knocked the guts out of the def tank ( the top part where the little fill up nozzle goes in; laying in bottom of tank along with a tree stick & trash; anyways the put new def tank & pick-up tube & filters on it; when I got home by there local dealer; when you turned the truck off the stuff would leave away from filter then it would work so got home with 1 more stop; anyway filled it completely up & haven't run it much but needle has moved a little but haven't put many miles on it running local; burnt almost half a tank of diesel (175 full) needle on def tank has move from past the (F) mark to covering the (F) mark

I had all oils analysts done but it had a fresh oil change; oil still looks very clean after the trip home & few half days of work; guessing around 1200 miles

I really appreciate your opion & advise on it; it's really good folks on here with great advice; only if I could get half as good of help at my local dealer; sorry about me rattling on but couldn't stop. Thanks

How many miles are on it? Has the turbo ever been replaced? If so I wonder if it was calibrated improperly?

It's got 206000 on it; doesn't look like it's been off; I found out where the truck was bought new & checked for and on all work that had been done before I bought it; all updates done; made them pull dpf off & have cleaned & got pictures they sent me; my Mack dealer is hard to deal with about stuff like this; wonder if it's a way to check all the calibrations on it

I'm fine with it; not going to spend that money; I'm used to one pulling down at lower rpm; I think it feels strong as long as you keep it above the 1400 mark; It does good on cruise control; but when it gets to 1400 it starts falling quick; you keep it above 1400 it feels good & strong; just curious had anyone else's pulled this way

Acts kinda like the accelerator pedal is out of adjustment or something when starting off; like a dead spot;or slow response; I know the turbo has to adjust and all that electronic stuff keep it from smoking; but seems like something isn't in sink with everything; taking off from stop try to just ease it up & it gets up to bout that 1400 range & it acts like it wants to take off; it's been hard to get use too; since I'm more familiar with the older ones; & like I said didn't notice it with the 09 with the 425E;it was 13spd; I don't split the low side but if I don't rev it to 1700 between the low gears it's flat; falls on its face til 1400 then like a rocket

24.5 & T318LR maxi-torque

It's got 394 rears; l don't expect it to be a race truck; as I said it doesn't seem to pull as good as the 09 425E did down to the 1200 to 1050 RPMS; it seems good up at the 1400 & higher; not complaining just want to know if it is right or not;

If he is me; no it's got C on it; also says it when Mack has laptop plugged in; had all that done when I bought it because the vehicle details sheet they pulled up when bought it from dealer said it was 500M but valve cover said 505C and I had verified & also saw another Mack dealer hook-up lap top on another deal; I saw it say 505C

Wished it was an E

Well I'll try something different; been hauling some grain at 87000 lbs gross; in little hwy but mostly city traffic; not running today but I don't think it will pull at that low; it want pull that low in the low side gears; I've never watched boost gauge never had truck with one; I watched it to post this because most of the time that's the firist questioned asked; don't watch tach either but did watch it when it didn't feel like it was pulling like I thought it should; it want pull it empty that low of rpm; does pretty good when it's up between 14 & 1700; just curious if it should do more; the older trucks that did have fuel turned up would run more heat in the exhaust & I realize we're talking whole different ballgame with the no smoke set up just wanted to make sure it was getting the fuel it should be getting

Thanks for your information