68-f-model

Things to consider about infloor raidiant:

Pros:

-extremely comfortable for working on the floor

-anything touching the floor is warm (toasty wrenches)

-any winter time slush and ice melts quickly

-most energy efficent as it puts the heat where you are not 14 ft about your head

-huge thermal mass in the concrete (maintains constant temp)

-no dust blowing around

-even heat across the shop

Cons:

-not instant at raising building temperature (best for shops that are continunally heated)

-requires some form of antifreeze mix if there is even a chance the heat coud go out

As I recall it was about couple grand but I may be wrong. Give him a call and ask he is a decent guy to talk to.

Run the radiant heat. It isnt that expensive and will be much more comfortable than a regular furnace. Just put down couple inches of insulation under and around your slab before you pour it. Regardless of the idea that you won't loose heat to the ground which is b.s. insulated the slab or you WILL be heating the ground and that is wasted $$. Having the floor warm is something you will never regret. Simply run 1/2 inch pex in 300 ft loops on about a 8 inch spacing, hook to your choice of hot water source and pump.

My house is entirely radiant as is my buddies 40x60 shop and attached garage. I wouldn't trade it for all the forced air furnaces in the world.

This set up was only a one time use just to get the trailer home over 99% dirt roads. Never even got over 30 mph .

The hitch was a 15,000 lb truck mount bolted to c channel fitted in the beds frame rails and through bolted.

Th f model is the new trailers actual intended power source.

Are they focused on weigh stations and major highways or are they out on the tiny two lane roads in the middle of no where search for the poor unlucky fellow?

Being bright orange probably doesnt help much. But it is under 26,000 GVW , 8.2 diesel, five speed but has hydraulic brakes. No names or number on doors of any kind. It maxes out at 45-50 mph (low geared) so it lives on back country two lanes.

Here is the truck.

Does the DOT target non commercial vehicles during road check week?

I am ask because I have a 30 foot fifth wheel flat bed to go pick up 60 miles from home.

Will I be hassled if I take my log farm plated non commercial GMC C60 to go and pick it up?

Precisely at:

Bill Consiglio & Sons Trucking

724 Oak St

Wyandotte, MI 48192-5027

Phone : 7342828556

You can see the truck on google maps satellite view.

Near Detroit

not mine:

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/hvo/4975478746.html

1973 Mack rw western model.

Original owners, truck has been parked since 2000.

1693 cat engine.

Newer 13 speed fuller transmission.

newer 363 ratio 44000lb rear ends.

Twin 45 gal oil tanks.

Aluminum fuel tanks.

Good hood.

Aluminum doors.

Will part or prefer just to sell whole truck...call with any questions 734 282 8556

I called on this truck a year or so ago and as I recall it needed the water pump rebuilt and reinstalled.

All ways have used Napa filters and never an issue.
I stock up once a year from http://www.fleetfilter.com as the Napa a filters are considerable cheaper from there. I get filters for everything from my jeep to the F-model. They also sell Baldwin and luber-finer.

Example fuel filter wix 3419 is $29.70 at my local Napa and is $16.50 from www.fleetfilter.com. I stock up and come out much cheaper even with shipping for the exact same filter.

My vote is for Simpson brand from lowes.

Specifically model # ALH3225 3200 psi, kolher engine and heavy duty pump.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_516791-93684-ALH3225_1z0wgc3Z1z10wteZ2z8vq__?productId=50119895&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1

From others I have used in the past the more pressure the better it cleans.

For the price increase over a harbor freight version it is worth it, you get what you pay for.

Putting them on my f model for steers. I have the same size (a different brand I picked up used) on my Chevy c60 dump for steers and like the floatation on soggy muck (most of my property).

They are just under $400 for a 395/65r22.5 , a shop near me has them. I thought I would ask if they are worth it or would a recap be a better use of the money?

Has anyone heard of or had experience with Annaite Tires?

Curious if they would be better than recapped/retreaded tires for a very limited personal use mack?

www.annaite-tire.com

I am not sure if one off a eaton fuller will fit on a mack transmission. I am new to this so I'll have to do more research . Let me know if I am mistaken. Thanks I am from Michigan

I am looking for a pto for my 5 speed trl107. Looking to run a small end dump around my place.

Might consider a complete wet kit set up if the price is right.

I had to do a double take, I thought this was the one you were redoing.

http://saginaw.craigslist.org/grd/4893877160.html

Will the ride be excessively stiff with the increased load rating over the original 10.00r20 or 11r22.5?

I am looking at putting 385/65r22.5 (Dayton rims) for steers on my f-model with air assist steering.

I am trying not to sink in my soft (swampy) property as bad.

Has anyone run this size tire on a mack cabover?

If so what were the results?

Any input is appreciated.

Going for something like this but with spoke wheels.

Go with the f model, I never regret buying mine.

I believe I have similar system on my single axle dump truck. The electric motor/pump on the master cylinder is a back up if the engine fails and you loose hydroboost it provides limited pressure boost for braking power. If you have a brake fluid leak it will run on and on before the engine is started with the key in the on position. It should shut of quickly once the system is up to pressure once the hydro boost and engine are running.

Found this cruising the craigslist not association, thought someone might be interested.

http://janesville.craigslist.org/hvo/4886270405.html

Yep, I have that set up on my f-model.