Jump to content

68-f-model

Bulldog
  • Posts

    345
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 68-f-model

  1. After having a small short/fire in the harness on my f- model it got me thinking I should replace the harness just to be safe.

    My question is has anyone ever used a Painless performance universal harness with say 20+ circuits on it and adapted it to a Mack?

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10104/overview/

    This would net me two things not fearing leaving the batteries hooked up at night and all modern relays and fuses. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work but maybe I am over looking something.

    post-19181-0-59496300-1440070956_thumb.j

  2. I have a source for the 8.25x22.5 rims for the change over so that is covered.

    The tires were on a motor home that was stored indoors.

    Despite being cheap on some things I don't want to have to worry about tires coming apart or rotting from the inside. At his price it was awfully tempting to take the cheap route. But I'll just bite the bullet and order 8 brand new Samson 11r22.5 GL293D (open shoulder tread) from Chicago Tire. At $2,730 on my door step I don't think that is to bad. I considered retreads but on a truck that doesn't go 10,000 miles a year I think I want the newest caseings I can get not some already half through their life. Also with the recent posts about the bandag failures on here I would trust a retread about as much as a 10+ year old tire.

  3. Agreed with hurstscrambler,

    Without the entire story one can skew the numbers to support and argument.

    I know of guys on the floor at ford that were making almost double what I make with a college engineering degree. Some times unions end up being greedy and shooting themselves in the foot. I can't blame ford for moving production to mexico when every time they turn around the union is demanding a pay raise. What will the union do once all production has moved and their is zero manufacturing in the US and thus no working union members to support the "union reps" and associated bureaucracy. That will be an interesting day.

  4. Heating a 40x60 shop with 16 ft ceilings will cost regardless of radiant or forced air.

    I am curious what his bills are with forced air.

    Mainly insulate, insulate, insulate. Best use of any money in a new shop. If possible do the insides of the walls and ceiling in sheet plastic before insulating to stop any cold air from blowing in and hot air from leaking out. You won't believe the difference 8mil plastic can make all by its self.

    • Like 1
  5. I can't emphasize the importance of insulating under the slab ( I am talking inches of insulation) if you leave it out you had better be prepared for high heat bills. You want to completely isolate the slab from the ground with insulation on the bottom and sides. Its a little late to try and add it after the slab is poured. A poorly planed radiant system is nothing but a waste of money and will never reach its desired efficiency or heat output.

  6. No, I don't have any mufflers on it. It had just a straight stack on it when I got it. Just sitting in the yard idling it is about the same if not quieter than my GMC's 8.2 diesel that has a huge muffler and an under the box exhaust exit.

    Once I get it on the road (a bit of work to do on it first) I'll find out how loud the dual larger stacks are.

    post-19181-0-77251500-1434037129_thumb.p

  7. Thanks Superdog, the only thing the guy ever hauled on it was a very small dozer, it has had an easy life.

    Thomastractorsvc, I can only hope mine turn out half as nice as yours and yes all new 8.25r15 of respectable load rating are in the plans.

    One other question is on decking.

    -Should the wood be the tallest surface on the bed or should it be flush with the metal framing.

    -I have been debating between treated yellow pine and some sort of oak, what is the opinion? (no I am not using apitong).

    Purely a hobby truck and trailer but I do want it to last.

×
×
  • Create New...