Ezrider

lots of grain fields around here are dessicated with roundup before harvest. 

On 8/8/2018 at 1:09 PM, RowdyRebel said:

So I've got a little pinging at partial throttle, and that's with the timing dialed back as far as I can and still have it run.  A couple bottles of octane boost helped, but didn't solve the problem...a band-aid, so to speak, while I get 'er dialed in.  I'm thinking heavier springs in the distributor to slow that advance curve down a tad, and perhaps dial back the vacuum advance as well by a couple degrees to allow me to turn the initial timing back up to where it ought to be.  The good news is that with the octane boost in the tank, the run-on situation has been temporarily halted.  Got the special tool on its way to adjust the idle mix and start tweaking on it.  Almost 100 miles on this tank and the needle is still on "F" ...a good sign.  Also put some really damn stiff throttle return springs (double spring set-up) on there to discourage and counteract my heavy foot.

 

And one more thing...a damn coolant leak at the thermostat.  I had one of those aluminum gaskets with the rubber inserts that are SUPPOSED to be reuseable...but they ain't.  So, rather than paying another $18 for one of those hunks of junk, I paid $2 for the paper gasket.  Got to drain the coolant...again...

i would ditch the vac advance all together. vac advance has caused me to chase my tail way to many times on tune up issues and does not gain you anything to try to use it. 

most idle run ons iv cured with a little more initial advance and backing the idle stop screw back out a little. if your getting into the transition slot at all on your idle speed setting can cause a run on. re curving should cure the pinging. maybe one step colder on the plugs as well

i forget without going back and reading if you have a healthy cam or not but the more cam you have the harder idle is to tune its hard to get the throttle valves closed far enough to be in the idle circuit and still maintain idle. 

you can use a larger advance bushing to limit the total advance to get your initial up without getting too much total advance. 

for idle mix just need a vacuum gauge. start out at 1 1/2 turns out get your initial timing and curb idle screw adjusted then fine tune your idle mix for max idle vacuum. if your not almost stalling out screwed all the way in your throttle blades are still in the transition or have a bad power valve (not likely)

they re designed the cab to accomidate the newer engines pretty sure it would be a major hurdle to just get it mounted in there. 

my 2000 460 pulls 90-105k gross all the time 13 speed with 3.73's and it pulls pretty good. not the most responsive engine out there and has a pretty narrow rpm range that it likes to pull hard in but it has no trouble keeping up or outrunning 475 c15's and 550's don't out run me by a whole lot. only place it struggles is loaded  heavy is soft spongy ground. it lacks a bit in off idle grunt. id start by making sure everything is running tip top first. 

hum didn't think of that. 

i have a couple different parts guys i normally take that kind of odd ball stuff too and they will pull out the paper parts books and normally find what i need. 

On 8/12/2018 at 5:48 PM, mowerman said:

Lol thanks for sharing your video clips are usually very helpful...bob

thank you. i try to just do topics that have some informational value. 

the forums are a great resource get a bunch of like minded people together in one place good chance someone will come up with the right answer. 

the 50w and 80-90 use two different viscosity rating systems i forget witch is with but one is i think api and the other sae the viscosity is closer between the two than it would seem. 

i would be surprised if it made any difference in how it shifts. but synthetic in your trans is always a good idea. 

as i read the first part i was thinking the same thing on the window kit. probably a lot easier 

i agree that i don't think it would even run with the o rings missing. 

i would mark a place on the ground to check the oil. drive it a while and park it in the EXACT spot. wait the same amount of time after shutting off the engine to check as well. but very slight grade differences can move the level on the dipstick 1/16th of a inch very easily. i used to drive myself nuts with that kind of stuff when i first bought my first truck. 

pull a oil sample and send it in for analysis. that will tell you conclusively if there is any fuel contamination. cat sos or Blackstone labs. 

when i had a cam job done on my 2000 it was a parts list of like 8-9k total bill of 14k at mack. new cam all new lifters also did rocker arm assembly's a few eup's and oil pump. probably some other things i don't remember.

you could try checking for boost leaks

also could be a issues with the vgt/actuator. 

i think the jury was on as more drugs than the driver with that dollar amount. 

lol yeah... i always kinda knew i was going to end up blowing that tranny (that sounded wrong) it was essentially a junk yard transmission with unknown history. the one im having biult for it will supposedly hold up to 650 horsepower so i should have some room to grow before i have to worry about blowing the trans again.  

the trans didn't scatter its guts across the highway but manually shifted gear 2-3 at 6200 rpm under wot and im pretty sure it welded the band clutch on the shift. it slipped and then grabbed really hard now when you put it in reverse its like being on a trans break. it creeps forward in neutral and feels like it starts out from a stop in probably 2 or 3rd gear. 

I haven't posted any of my videos on here in a while but I know some of you like this car. I put off editing this video for way too long. I wasn't really happy with it and wanted to re film some parts and then I blew up the 700r4 currently getting a new one biult figuring I probably have atleast a few more weeks till I have the car back on the road I'd just edit this video with the footage I already had.

not for sure on a 05 granite but on my 00 vision when you take the front cover off the gauge cluster the glass over the odo is attached to it rather than the cluster

gesh i never would have thought such a small quantity would require so many hoops to jump threw. 

that sure sounds like some rotten luck. it could be worse though. i had a similar hot water heater issue one time but it dripped for so long un noticed it rotted out the sub floor. i had no idea it was leaking till one day i noticed the carpet was damp in a adjacent room under a dresser. sub floors were damaged by the time i noticed the leak and they were damaged under a interior wall. had to not only had to rip out the sub floors but part of a wall to repair the damage. 

the house i own now has a full basement rather than a crawl space. and the utility room with the furnace/hot water heater ect is in the basement on a concrete floor with a floor drain. hot water heater could leak for years with no damage, much better setup. 

10 hours ago, 41chevy said:

 

Watched a "driver" who was not able to back up just the tractor with out getting all crossed up. Would have liked to watch his antics with a trailer hooked up.

i have a harder time backing up a bobtail than i do backing up a trailer. its like my brain gets crossed up. i almost never bobtail....lol

not at all what i was expecting...... looks like the dog is enjoying itself though....lol

id give the guy 500 bucks if he delivered it to me, and then id probably regret it after it got there....lol

yeah it was a nice afternoon on the river. i really like the boat. i searched for a long time to find that one. i wanted a boat with a cuddy cabin but i  have a strong preference to aluminum boats. not a combination that comes up very often....lol