Ezrider

i look forward to seeing that. 

im guessing my car should be around 3800 lbs maybe 3750 

 its a very heavy car for its size. defiantly a street car build. if i was going for a drag race car the build would be completely different. i want a fun street car that might go to the drag strip a couple nights a year on non competition days when i started the project. i figured 500-550 hp would be around my target number. really pretty easy to hit that number these days even N/A and probably for about the same money that iv got in this engine now. but i wanted to blow it for the throttle response and the huge torque cure you get on a supercharged engine.

there was a "gasser" for sale here locally a few years ago. i had seen it around a bit but never really looked it over very close. i think it was a 56-57 chevy 2dr hard top. they had a straight axle under the front according to the ad it had a bone stock tired 350 in it and i think a th350 trans if i remember right and a old tired paint job on it. they wanted reasonable money for it tho and from a distance looked solid. basically it was a car that was made to look the part of a Gasser a long time ago but never really was a Gasser. i was pretty tempted but never went and looked it over close, to many other projects on my plate already. maybe if i get to the point where i have more money and mostly more time i will build a actual drag car and building a Gasser would probably be within my top 2-3 choices. 

its 1 1/2 in exaust tubing thats miter cut and welded back together. of course i could only find 1 1/2 inch in exaust tubing in short legths so there is 3 peices to make the upper hose. i could have made it a little prettier by using a few more pie cuts to create more of a radius in the bends, but i still haven't picked up more welding gas yet and tight seal welding thin material with flux core wire is kinda a bitch...lol. im not too worried about my outlets being on opposite sides. at some point ill get a custom or universal radiator to put in it that will solve that problem. 

i ordered 2 different top puleys (150 bucks a peice ouch) doing a few calculations and reading some literature on the blower. the blower has a maximum recommended rpm limit of 14k rpm at the blower the pully ratio's i have on it right now would spin it at 16+ at 6k rpm (6k rpm camshaft in the engine) so one blower pulley i ordered should put me at 14k blower rpm at 6k engine rpm with the 7 inch crank pulley. the other one i ordered will be just slightly over driven from the ratio the blower would have originally come with. 

hitting 10 psi at less than half throttle at low rpms with 9.4:1 compression on pump gas with cast pistons makes me a little nervous...lol if i can get it to run 6-7 at wot threw the top end i would be a bit more comfortable. 

you got to get some video to post of your Gasser one of these days i gotta see it, sounds like a blast. 

got things buttoned up today fluids full ect, unfortunately all i could do is putt it around. would make 5lbs of boost at around 30% throttle. goose it and it will hit 10psi in the blink of a eye with the over drive pullys on it. i am going to have to order a larger blower pully before i can run it threw its paces. i had boost in mind when i put this engine together but not 10lbs at half throttle...lol iv got the timing set WAY conservative. at about 25 degrees total timing a good dose of octane booster in the tank. even at 25* total timing the throttle response is amazing. if you goose it 1/4 throttle off the line it will spin the tires. even spun them a little rolling in 2nd one time goosing it. cant wait to get the pulley drive ratio down so i can actually give it some throttle and rpm without the boost going higher than i feel comfortable with. 

or if my radiator inlet was on the other side...lol if you flip the thermostat housing around it ends up pointing towards the rear of the engine. i think i might have a clock-able housing in my parts bin somewhere but i don't think it will work with the blower snout. i might have a look tomorrow before i start on the hoses and see. 

still using the jaguar radiator. i planned on upgrading the radiator when i did the engine swap but hooked it up intending just to use it for a few test drives but 2 years later its never got even anywhere even close to running hot so iv never upgraded it. when i eventually get around to doing that my inlets and outlets will be flip flopped put the top inlet on the drivers side and the outlet on the passenger side. because right now both my hoses go to the opposite sides

lower hose i think will be simple i think if i just add 6 inches or so to the center it will push the bend in the bottom of the hose out away from the crank pulley. top hose will need to make one bend right out from the thermostat to point it towards the core support.  then go to the core support make a 90 then another 90 into the radiator. i grabbed some small exhaust tubing the same size i need for my radiator hoses today. i think im just gong to chop that up and make a metal hose like you would have on the big truck. it will probably take less time than staring at the wall of hoses at napa trying to pick out things you think might work and then the 10 trips back and forth that follows....lol

got the belt alignment ironed out and then re installed everything, and it had its first test start today. only ran it for a few seconds though as i need to re route my coolant hoses so the radiator wasn't hooked up. lower radiator hose hits the blower pulley, and top hose well would work if the outlet on the thermostat housing was the same size as the old one but the routing wouldn't be very ideal anyway. i think im going to make up some metal radiator hoses tomorrow and then just use a a bit of rubber hose on the ends to make the connections.

got another little project done on the jag today. its been nice being home this week if i never had to work id get a lot more shit done....lol

ever sense i did the engine swap the exhaust has been dumped right after the mufflers in front of the rear axle. it sounded good in town but it was almost as loud inside the car as outside and it droned really bad on the highway. to get the exhaust back up threw the rear cage over the stub axle and down around and out the back was going to be a nightmare esp with a 2.5 inch pipe really not even sure it could be done the factory exhaust was probably near half that size. when i was installing the new fuel pump earlier this week i got the idea of just going under the center of the diff (irs) and then kicking it up and avoid all that no clearance mess. a bit of a compromise as its slightly more likely to drag the exhaust on the ground but considering its under the axle the tires should lift the car up over a bump so not too likely to drag. 

of course this seemed so much simpler than it ended up being and i hacked the exhaust off right after the x pipe before i even started mocking things up. mufflers didn't fit where i thought they would fit so had to change where i planned on putting them so had to go back near where they originally were but rather than kicking them out towards the sides kept them straight to each other witch then ment i had to kick the exhaust out to the inlets and then kick it back in after the mufflers. being that i don't have a exhaust tubing bender and mandrel bends are hard to come by locally and crush bent pipes get too mishapen in the radius to cut them apart to make custom bends, i ended up just making a couple miter cuts on the metal chop saw to get it to go where i wanted it too. probably not the best for flow but it will work. for now

got everything mocked in place held together by bailing wire and duct tape 

then almost as soon as i started spot welding everything after i had things where i wanted them i ran out of mig gas. so i had to throw roll of some flux core wire in the welder. that was fun but after all the joints were spot welded in a couple places dropped the exhaust back out welded it all up and put it on the car for good. 

after it was all in place and welded in i did end up hitting the lower sections of pipe with some black header paint as if you were far enough back from the car to be able to see under the car the pipes coming from under the diff looked a little funky but the black header paint made them blend right in. 

there is still a nice rumble outback but inside the car is actually quiet now. and no more drone on the highway. inside the car you can actually hear the electric fans on the radiator over the exhaust. and now im going to have to fix that very slight leak on the exhaust manifold you could hardly hear before...lol

ill eventually get a full custom bent exhaust made at a exhaust shop for this car but it was still a nice little few hour project that made the car much nicer to drive on the highway. 

last of the parts for the supercharger should be here tomorrow according to the tracking. if it does, i may get started on installing that tomorrow afternoon, 

id love to see some pictures of your dads xke if you find some. 

i got my other core 350 torn down today. i was told by the guy that gave me that engine core that it had a bad cyl head, its been sitting around the shop several years now, a bit of bad news is although everything in the bottom end looked great other than 1 cyl that has had water sitting in it this entire time the engine had rusted up enough on that one cyl it wouldn't even spin over all the way till i cleaned it up a bit. as you typically find in the late vortec blocks all the other cyl's looked great could have easily gotten by with a hone re-ring and bearing job. ran a hone threw the cyl that had water in it and its defiantly going to need to be bored oversize to clean up. its also a 2 bolt main block rather than a 4 bolt like i have in the jag. 

so now knowing that its defiantly got to go to the machine shop to be bored complicates how i might want to biuld the engine. i was planning on just re-ring hone thow a set of flat top pistons in it and new bearings then call it a day. the project i plan on putting that engine in is a 2wd 89 toyota pickup, weighs quite a bit less than the jag and will likely never get traction so wasn't really planning on a high horsepower build. figured id run vortec heads on it and thow the lt4 hot cam in it when i upgrade to a blower specific cam on the jaguar would make way more power than you could really use in a 2800lb rear wheel drive mini truck. 

now at the point that it needs to be bored its really not much more to just go ahead and biuld a 383 thinking maybe i should biuld a forged 9.x:1 383 out of it then when i get ready to put the other project together pull the engine on the jag put the new short block in there and re use the jag short block in the toyota project. but id be giving up a 4 bolt main for a 2 bolt main in the one i want to make more horsepower with if i did that. 

the other option is to just biuld a basic 383-355 out of the 2 bolt main block and when and if the jaguar short block says its had enough re biuld it as a forged 383 and keep the 4 bolt main block with that car. 

ether way the blower setup will get put on the jaguar engine as is for now because the machine shop i normally use tends to be really slow so after i decide how i want to build it and drop the block off it will probably be a couple months after that before i see it again. 

i did video record the engine tear down on the other block hopefully ill get it edited over the next few days here and upload it. 

im not really sure how much resemblance the xke rear suspension there is to the xjs. just not something iv ever looked into it very well could be the same if not very similar. the rear suspension on my car is the same as the first xjs to roll off the line rear suspension was also shared with the xj6-12 my car was kinda a transition year. it got the updated headlights and tail light panel, but with different style bumpers than typically found on "facelift" cars. as well as the updated dash/gauge panel. also had the 4.0L inline 6 but it didn't get the updated coil on plug ignition system or outboard rear breaks that were on the following year car.

xke's are defiantly very cool cars id like to own one but the prices of even just a scrap shell are a bit insane these days. 

these mounts that attach the rear sub frame to the body of the car are a bit known for having issues when pushing pretty good power. 

they would be pretty easy to made solid steal replacements from a old set though. 3 out of 4 of mine failed back when it still had the original engine certainly made for some scary handling. that was about 3 years ago that i replaced them and so far they have held up to everything iv thrown at it although im sure they wont last near as long as the last set did...lol 

the other bushings that are a bit prone to fail are the radius arm bushings. although they seem to more from the fact that there forced to flex as the suspension cycles than carrying large torque loads. 

these could possibly be good candidates or a poly urethane upgrade. they do need some defection though as the suspension cycles these need to be able to twist rather than move in only one direction threw the eye like a leaf spring bushing they are available in polyurethane from a couple sources. 

lower control arm is actually on tapered roller bearings rather than bushings and very stout, there is no axle wrap what so ever in this setup. the only axle wrap that could possibly occur is in the bushings that mount the sub frame to the body. the twisting force is carried by the outer hub assemblies threw the lower control arm into the rear sub frame all those pivot points are not on rubber 

i have seen some talk of people cracking the outer hub assembly however that seems to be more an issue on the bit later xjs and xj6 with the outboard breaks. mine has inboard breaks (breaks are on the irs diff rather than the wheel ends.) when they moved the breaks to the wheel ends the year after mine was built to eliminate 12 hours of labor rear rotor changes. they lightened the hub assemblies to try to counter act the addition of un sprung weight of having the breaks outboard. the rear suspension that is in my car is known to be the beefiest available. 

the jaguar rear irs was a pretty popular rear end swap for many street rodders and lots of big block have put there power down threw them over the years. although they were not biult for ease of service they work well. very little camber change threw out the entire suspension travel. low unsprung weight and no axle wrap makes it extremely grippy both in acceleration and cornering. the dampening and spring are a little on the soft side for cornering but it really transfers weight to the rear well on acceleration. and does track nice and flat around corners.  i wouldn't be too surprised if it dead hooks on slicks at the drag strip. but that will defiantly be the test of how strong it really is. 

factory jag. 3.55's and a limited slip.

the jag irs uses the same ring and pinion as a dana 44. there fairly stout. from the little bit of research iv done there is more issues with the rubber sub frame mounts tearing apart than actually breaking rear ends. 

did i couple quick modifications on the carb in preparation for the rest of the parts to come in. with the supercharger you want to be able to reference your powervalve to the intake manifold below the supercharger so you need a external port to hook a vacuum line to as vacuum under the carb is no longer directly tied to engine load. on the summit racing carb there was power valves on both the primary's and secondary's. and the power valves are located under a small cover under each float bowl.  i put a block off in the secondary's and bumped up the secondary jets 7 sizes . drilled a hole slightly smaller than 3/16's and covered a short piece of 3/16th break line in some 2 part epoxy and pressed it into the hole giving me a nipple i can externally hook a vacuum line to. i then found a drill bit just slightly larger than the port that used to feed the power valve from under the throttle body's cut about 1/4 inch of the shank off of it covered it in 2 part epoxy and drove it in the port with a punch to block off the passage. then put it all back together hooked a hand vacuum pump to the nipple applied a vacuum then worked on a few other things for an hour came back and the needed had not moved. so i re installed the carb.

i will route the new power valve port back to a manifold vacuum port on the carb till i get the blower put on. new fuel pump came in at the house today while i was out at the shop so hopefully. ill get that installed in the morning tomorrow and if the weather will cooperate a quick run around the block to make sure everything is functioning properly and that my secondary jetting is not off in left feild although i fully expect to have to re jet both anyway i don't want to start off a mile out if i can help it. 

got any pictures of the whole car? it is super fun to watch the gassers race, wheels up and sideways off the line...lol

how does that e-85 work out in a play toy. i have never really considered running e85 mostly cause iv seen what 10% ethanol will do to carbs if they sit around a while. i could only imagine e85

i got home today and one piece of the puzzle has arrived. i couldn't help myself i had to set it on the engine and on the car to see what it was going to look like. looks a little goofy sitting ontop of the hood hopefully it will look a little better when there is a bit of engine sticking out with it. looks great on the engine though. 

they used to use very little salt in nd. they would put some salted sand (mostly sand just enough salt to keep the sand from freezing as you said) down on the intersections then most the rest of our roads were just plowed and left ice pack for the majority of the winter. the last few years they have really started using a lot more salt and trying to maintain bare roads. last year hauling road salt out of Canada most the nd dot salt barns were telling me that the dot was pushing them to use 100% salt and they were only adding enough sand to be able to see it better when spreading. really kind of causes more problem than it solves because when the wind blows across a heavily salted road rather than just blowing over the road it sticks and re freezes way slicker than a little hard packed snow would be. they have even been pre treating when the forcast calls for snow with a salt brine, they never used to do that. if they keep it up im sure were start seeing far more rust here. but as of right now we have far less rust problems than our neighboring states. 

the jag never sees snow though and i bought it in Kentucky one year when i was down there visiting my brother. its very rust free nothing in the body panels or underneaith there was a couple spots of surface rust starting under the carpet in the front probably from the top leaking. cleaned that up and treated hasn't gotten any worse. 

i don't drive it at all in the snow, i drove it in the snow maybe twice in the time iv owned it and it was not a fun experience. in its current configuration it can be a handful in the rain. i think i would rather walk than try to go anywhere in the snow with it...lol

8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

I'm running a Comp Cam 694 roller. 300° Intake / 308° Exhaust, ' Lift:255° Intake / 262° Exhaust, 1.7 Rockers:.652'' Intake / .652'' Exhaust with Lobe Separation Angle:114° with a steep ramp. Solid rollers. Good from 3500 to 8200 rpm.Heads are Brodix.  5/8 fuel line to engine driven vane pump restricted to 12 g.p.m.with by pass circuit through barrel valve with by pass to  .082 injector tubes. Comp is 10.25. 440 stroker SBC. Good for 624 r.w.h.p.  4 speed running 2nd 3rd and 4th rear is Dana90 running 6:05 locker. Rear tire diameter grows close to a foot during run. 

 

sounds like a pretty interesting setup. sounds like a real screamer. 

2 hours ago, Vladislav said:

I didn't note you said it was straight 6 4.0L. Only later series XJS had straight 6. That's why I thoufght it had V12 5.3.

its a 1993 its not accually that old of a car it just looks old because the body remained the same for so many years, its the first year of the "facelift" cars though in the us headlights changed to the ones that were standard in the uk and the tail light panel was changed. other than that the body of the car is the same as the first xjs that rolled off the line

if you want to donate it to me ill give it a very nice home....lol. 

its actually pretty stout na once i got threw some tuning issues on it. would have been better with more compression but when i put the engine together i was planning on running one of these small case blowers. so i didn't want to build it any higher. its a street car that might see a couple days a year on test and tune days at the drag strip when everything is ironed out. power goal is around 500 flywheel hp. if i can get an 11.99 pass out of it i would be pretty happy. car weighs an estimated 37-3800 lbs. 

bench racing calculators say i should make 535 hp at just 5lbs of boost witch should be relatively safe on my engine setup. weather or not the small blower will run out of steam before peek horsepower or not is a bit of a question mark. but even then should make nice gains under the curve witch will be good for seat of the pants feel in a street car. 

i really had a wiand 177 in mind but i couldn't find intakes for the vortec heads for the 177 blowers. so then i was thinking of upgrading to a better head to solve that problem but i think at that point id probably make more power than i really built the bottom end for. its basically all stock bottom end stuff. the vortec heads are modified for extra valve lift different springs and exhaust guides are profiled and exhaust side is cleaned up a bit. 

iv got another core 350 sitting around on a stand i plan on rebuilding for another project but if it needs crank or rods or anything it will probably be built into a forged 383 and end up in the jag and the jag engine would end up in the other project. if i can get away with a hone re-ring and bearings it will probably just get a set of flatop pistons and end up in the other project then the hot cam will probably end up in that engine and a more blower specific cam in the jaguar. the heads from the jag may also end up on that engine as well as there already modified. hopfully i will get that other engine torn down soon. i want to get that project to the point of moving under its own power by spring. but its probably not going to happen, i wanted to have the engine done a couple months ago but other things keep coming up and putting it on the engine stand is as far as iv gotten. 

the 142 blower i bought hopefully works out good. its a used setup that saved about 1500 over a new one with the vortec manifold. comes with both a vortec intake as well as a standard sbc intake, a couple different pullys in both 6 and 10 rib setups. hopefully its all in good shape like the guy claims. 

engine is a 4 bolt main 97 vortec 350 that i rebiult running modified vortec heads and a lt4 hot cam. ((intake/exhaust) is 218/228; and maximum lift with 1.6 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is 525/525.) 9.4:1 CR

yeah i took the factory 4.0L 6 out about 2 years ago and put in a pretty warm sbc and 700r4

if we did that you would have to offer me back the reverse deal...lol

i would say to send your apple picking crew over here but i think ill pass.....lol

very nice job. looks great!

8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Already out by multiple makers. . .

Desire Regular
Desire Blue Hi Test
Santa Fe Cattle Drive
Diesel Plus Plus
Kouros Diesel Scent/YSL
Pasha de Cartier
Sybaris/Puig

Tradesman AutoScent/ Avon

i guess im a day late and a dollar short on that 50 cent idea