Hobert62

Talk that guy into making a calendar.   I would gladly pay for one, and I'm sure quite a few others would too. 

Front seal is currently a "national  411275R"    It's outside is 4 1/4"

Do a quick ebay search for aluminum or stainless air tank.    A bunch of new stuff shows up for a decent price

Yes you run the truck pretty far to have something that gives you a funny feeling.   

Ok found the motor mount rubber thing at watts for $60

2 more questions.   Why is the fan not made symmetrical?                What do I have to do to change the front motor mount?    Do I just replace the rubber or do I have to find the entire cast piece that bolts to frame?   Mine is shot and the motor is just sitting in the bottom of it, with some marks where the pulley rubs the crossmember sometimes.  

Are you sure the noises are getting louder or is it just your head playing games with you after reading all the stories about how the old tranny won't hold up?     I know the voices in my head are pretty damn presisten some times.  

I did look at Barry's on my phone but didn't see anything.   I think they had the rear one listed.   

Ok thank you.   I figured it shouldn't be to hard to come up with, but wanted to make sure before I dug in to deep

How available is the front crankshaft oil seal for my 1963 b67 with a 673 na.        Mine leaks when the truck is running.   So while front is off truck and I plan on replacing hoses figured I'd just pull radiator and replace seal.    I haven't check into it alot but figured I'd ask here first.  

I agree with all the rest.   It's been about 15 years for me and I'm only 1 hour away.  

The name sounded familiar but I couldn't remember from where. 

I think that's a Pennsylvania coal hualer special edition.   Light weight model.  

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/hvo/5593560690.html

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/hvo/5589394430.html

Did you get a box mounted? Just courious how it turned out for you.  

X3.        I like the aluminum radiator/grill surround 

Land scaping around a garage? Isn't that what roundup was made to take care of?

Front fenders had lots if previous body work over there life.     Some with fiberglass some with bondo and some with pop rivits and patches.   I took the da sander and smoothed everything out with 80 grit paper.   Then went to harborfreight to grab a gallon of their truck bed coating.     I finished it about 3am this morning and I'm very happy with the results.    It gave a nice finish kinda like a vinyl top on a car, helped hide the body work imperfections, and gave a nice uniform finish.   As a bedliner it would be a joke but as a heavyduty paint I'm happy with the results. 

12 hours ago, Vladislav said:

1st (and more correct, and probably easy) - cut off the bushings, buy them new. Align and set brackets, put new bushings e t.c., align axles and weld.

2nd - assemble axles with everything including brackets, put onto the frame with temporary bolts and check the distances. Than try to align moving the brackets (and correcting the holes) or playing with the brackets swapping them. It the brackets fit different than they were larger bolts might be required to cover the holes increase.

 

  Looks like the brackets sit against the bottom of the frame and the outside.   You could probably assemble the axles and clamp everything. In place to get fitment.   That would be easier then cutting the bushings, and if they are offset it would be best to measure from axle centers.   

5 hours ago, Freightrain said:

 

I like rain x to a point, but it also makes wipers skip and smear in some situations.  Almost better to not use the wipers at all after you put it on.  

I tried it on my working truck and found the same result.   I have 15 grocery stores a night I deliver to with only short trips in between.   I like it on the mirrors but wouldn't get going fast enough for wind to keep windshield clear.  Then wipers would smear.   

21 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

I'm going to remove a set of Neway's from one frame to another.

One thing bothers me. I read in some Neway bulletin (on the net) that steel bushings you can see welded into the lower ends of the frame-mounted brackets are originally excentrical. So after you have the brackets on the frame rails and attach equalizer beams together with axles you can turn those bushings checking the axle alignement and than weld them up in place.

I'm not going to cut off those bushings and it has me scratching my head. Seems like a temporary attachment of whole axle assemblies with the brackets onto frame rails might be required. Or anything else.

Vlad

If they are only spot welded inplace it may be worth the effort to grind the welds off.  

In a twin screw the most important part I feel would be getting the 2 drive axles square to each other.  If its a longer wheel base truck the drives could "probably" be up to a 1/2" off from the steering axle and not have much of a noticeable affect.    If the drives are off "to much" compared to the steering it would give u a crab walk affect going down the road.    If drives are fighting each other. Tires wouldn't last long

Did you get any racing in?   

Hope you remembered to get a bottle of rain-x.   If your still heading east weather looks wet