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Hobert62

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by Hobert62

  1. You must be a skinny midget or never been around a b67 with a concave cab then. It was a running driving truck when I bought it. I drove it a couple month before I cut the frame off behind the cab for the stretch. Kinda defeated the purpose of the short hood and cancave cab With the new 16’ wheelbase.
  2. I have one similar but without taking heads off there’s no way it would fit. Being a b67 my front end is 8” shorter then a standard B. The back 1/3 of motor is crammed in a dog house under the dash.
  3. Inferior is just an opinion I guess. If being able to get parts off the shelf about anywhere, almost twice the hp and torque as my n/a673, being 100 + cubic inches smaller making fit better, and the fact it’s been around for 30 years makes it inferior, then I guess it is. I also have freightliner air ride, power steering from a fl70, and front axle from a fld120. I’m building the truck to use and abuse with parts that are reliable, easily available to me, and have people experienced in working on them. And mostly because I want to.
  4. I like the idea for using intake. My new setup uses a #2 bell housing. I will pretty much everything left from driveshaft yoke to fan.
  5. I’m hoping to get rid of my oil leaks not get more. Lol
  6. I like the real air horns. I wish I would have put taller garage doors in my shop so I could do that.
  7. Question about b67 specifically. Where do you hook to engine to pull from the truck? Just curious do to it leaning and halfway under the cab.
  8. Just like the title says. The purists out there will prob be upset and the Mack gods unhappy. This is the beginning of my Cummins swap. I got my crane made up for the forklift so it’s soon time to try it out.
  9. I like that look. At one time I was considering moving my cab back and using a b61 hood with my b67 fenders Then making the same panel.
  10. I’m guessing you will use standard B fenders with a longer filler panel between them and the cab like the 70 series have.
  11. Guy around here had square aluminum international step tanks and brackets on his. Not sure what exact truck they where from but looked appropriate
  12. Just need a few longer bolts and some steel to space the back brackets out. That kind of thing bothers me too. I don’t care if it’s factory or not but those details stand out.
  13. My b67 round tanks were really bad with the short hood. the front brackets were mounted further forward.
  14. Here’s what I came up with. Look what I noticed on the steel I’m using. The new stuff I bought is USA 🇺🇸. The older stuff I’m repurposing is Canada 🇨🇦
  15. That is kinda true. Antique plates do not have a weight rating. Like asked before. Where are you at? I’m sure there’s people on here that can recommend a notary that knows what they are doing. Like said above. You need proof of insurance before you can do anything for tags.
  16. I like the little plow setup. Problem is it gives me ideas my wallet doesn’t agree with.
  17. My idea for the hood welt is the rubber cowl molding from a kenworth. It’s from the trucks with the 2 flat windshields. It’s 1 1/8” wide and I think 3/8” thick. I haven’t tried it yet so idk if it will be to thick or not.
  18. Idk what that is. It’s just a small piece welded in from factory by the looks of it. Kinda like an extra brace? I’ve seen sever of them throughout the cab
  19. I removed my heater assembly which cleared out some space so the floor dimmer is fine with me. I will save these other switches for probably forever though. Now I just have to do some figuring where to cut the hole in the firewall and what boot I’m gonna use.
  20. I got 2 columns when I got. I decided to use this one due to the 18” wheel, other has a 20”. They where both from mr garbage trucks. I took the extra apart and Larry was right. Very ugly exposed shaft and spacers. After further sitting on my garage chair I realized they also had 900 series (non canceling) turn signal switches. Same as my B but they have dimmer switch. I was able to switch the clamp and bracket to my already wired switch. It raised the switch and moved it forward.
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