Mackpro

Most of the time it’s a ABS wheel speed sensor issue. You will get the lighting bolt with both ABS and ATC lights on if this is the cause . If only the lighting bolt comes on and absolutely no ABS/ATC  light comes on when this happens. Then pull the center floor mat and floor board out ( 10 mm socket) , real easy to do , push the shifter boot through floor board. Carefully follow the trans harness towards the driver side and you will see a 10 or 12 pin connector ( 2 rows of 5/6) . Look for rubbed wires near this connector. Do be afraid of cutting zip ties and pulling the wires up and looking underneath them .  I had 2 of our 2014-15 CXU’s have shorted wires in this area. It was due to who ever pulled the trans to change the clutch, didn’t zip tie up the connector and both rubbed on the braided air compressor line. 

I was trying to add video, hope it works. 

23 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Yes lesson learned, can’t go with cheap parts on these engines. Always buy Mack parts. It will save a lot of money and headaches in the long run. 

I just got done tonight  replacing a aftermarket injector cup in a Volvo D13/MP8. Truck would barely run and missing like crazy. Had coolant in the fuel and fuel in the coolant. Pulled the injectors and  pressurized the cooling system. #6 cup was bubbling around top o-ring. Pulled the cup and the o-ring was deformed and flattened. This allowed coolant and fuel to mix. Cup looked weird and had P3614 stamped on it. I’ve put hundreds of cups in and never saw one like this . 

That year model ETECH has excessive fuel from the injectors return back to the tank through passage ways inside the cylinder heads. A leaking top O-ring on the injectors can allow fuel into the oil. Seems likely due to it didn’t start till after the heads replaced. Put some fuel dye in the fuel filters and run the engine for one minute then remove valve covers and use a black  light to look for fuel around injector hold downs. 

There should be a 1/8 pipe plug on the top middle of the intake manifold. That’s where I always ran my 1/4 air line to fir the gauge . Factory specs for a 1999-2001 355/380 boost is 19-24 psi under a load . 

1 hour ago, masterwelder said:

Not to hijack… Mackpro would your statement hold true on a 2000 RD688s last six of vin: 055316? I’m thinking about injectors and turbo upgrade for a little more snort. 

Your engine is the early ETECH 400 with 1460 ft pounds of torque. I’m not sure about the performance just by updating the injectors to the bigger ones. Holler at the guys at Rochester Diesel, good guys to talk to . They know what combinations work. I just know that the 355/380 programs do crazy stuff with the small turbos and injectors to get the bigger torque. Remember, injectors are wear items that no one want to replace anymore. If yours are original, getting them rebuilt can restore performance that has slowly dropped over time . 

56 minutes ago, 880joe said:

It's hard to convenience some people that the 355/380 program will run better than 427 or 460

Yes . The 99-2001 Etech ( not 2002 CCRS) 355/380 has 1560 foot pounds of torque like the 427 of the same year. The 427 and 460 and 460XT use the same turbo and 850cc injectors and have the offset cam keyway, the only difference between the 427 and 460 and 460XT  is the software. The 350,400 and 355/380 all use the same smaller 700cc injectors and smaller turbo and all have the straight cam key way. So in theory putting the bigger injectors and turbo there should be a big increase in power. My notes I found when I got to work were for the 2004-2007 ASET AC 355/380 . 50 pounds of boost and over 500 HP on the Dyno  by upgrading to the bigger injectors and turbo . The CCRS and ASET engines are different in HP levels/ parts combos. The cam keyway on the ETECH 1999-2001 would concern me. I did a 400 to 460 update on a RD without doing the cam key way. It was fine till summertime then it ran hot . The keyway retards the timing on the 427/460. The straight keyway is for most 300 to 400 including 355/380. Flip the keyway the other way and it advances it for the 275 and some 300 engines. The CCRS and ASET engines all use the straight keyway regardless of HP 

What the model and last 6 of the VIn? I can look the actual specs up of your truck/engine. The 355/380 has the same torque as a 427. On some year models of the 355/380 just adding the 427/460 injectors ( possibly turbo as well) will boost the Hp over 500. The 355/380 usually have smaller injectors but the software/data file manipulates the  EUP’s for a larger fuel charge to get the 427 like torque readings. Bumping up to the larger 427/460 injectors really improve things. I have to find my notes on this when I get to work. 

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Yep...  The firing order is::  Too Young... Too Old... Just Right!!  

First thing the old guys taught me in the shop when I started . Haven’t heard anyone else say that in a long time . 

I believe the fuse is in the fuse box down by where the clutch pedal is . I didn’t write that down in my notes

Fuse 43 is the fuse . 

The 2 oil solenoids on the oil filter stand should  have 12 volts to them . They share the same fuse. If one shorts out bad enough to blow the fuse it sets the code for both solenoids. Wiring to the solenoids rubbing on the engine also can blow the fuse as well. Each has a wire that runs back to engine ECM . The engine ECM controls/grounds the return wires to  close the solenoids independently. 

The early VMAC trucks had a coarse threaded sensor but all 1999 and up ETECHs I ever saw had the ( I called fine thread) 1/8” pipe thread sensor that I listed above. Amazon has them at various prices and qualitys! Lol

Original part number 64MT2114 , new number is 20706315 . It’s about $163 from the dealership 

Try some of the Turbo/injector repair shops . We’re having to get injectors from them due a 4 month wait on certain Mack injectors ( 2008 & 2009 MP8). Some of the shops are certified Borg Warner shops and you might get lucky. 

CH613 built 2/13/2000, came with a 460 ETECH engine, Fuller FRO16210C trans , Eaton DS462P forward drive axle and a Eaton RD462 rear rear drive axle both with 3.90 gears. 

When I worked at the dealership. Corporate wanted us to use Jpro for the initial code reading to determine if it was a possible quick fix or a more involved repair ( low coolant sensor vs a complex SCR issue). Jpro was way much faster than Tech Tool to connect  and read codes, a lot faster. I did like the regen/after treatment screen on the JPro. On the Jpro we had, You could read and clear codes, view sensor readings and do regens but that was it. Now where I work we have Jpro but never use it. We go straight to Tech Tool because nothing is usually a easy fix anymore. 

We replaced tons of CCV’s on MP7’s. The brass nipple that directed the oil to spray the spinner filter to make it spin would fall out which would at times blow oil out the blow by hose . Fun times . 

12 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

It’s funny because out of all the scan tools PTT is the cheapest and does it all. 

True. And if you go all out and get it with software programing it’s basically the exact same thing as the dealership has. 

The the GR Granite. AN Anthem and PI Pinnacle all got the lovely LCM ( Light Control Module) that Volvo has been using many many years. The LCM has I think 6 or 7 fuses in the upper fuse panel on top of the dash . They are labeled LCM 1, LCM 2 and so on . No detail on which fuse does what functions of the LCM. It’s not to bad of a system except when someone decides to add lights or swap bulb type  ( LED to regular bulb or the other way) and the worse is bed companies tapping into harnesses and overloading the circuits . If there is a plug at the very back of the truck . Unplug it and see if you can narrow it down to the bed lights . Pop out the lights  on the bed on either side of the tail gate . If you have a high lift tailgate the cylinders and rams hidden inside sometime get into the wires . I honestly don’t know I’d the truck with the LCM’s still have a flasher or if it’s made into the LCM . 

Went to my buddies shop tonight and he just got the bootleg version of Tech Tool from somewhere on the Internet. Using his Nexiq USB link-2 adapter we could connect to the truck but that was it , couldn’t get past the first screen. I had my Mack VOCOM adapter and used it and could connect and  read codes and regen but very very limited. He mainly wanted it to calibrate clutches in Mdrive and Ishift trans after doing clutch jobs. It does do that though if you have the Vcom adapter. He tried to call the guy he bought it from but the guy doesn’t speak English so he has to communicate through email .  It’s not looking good . 

6 hours ago, clpetty said:

we have a 2019 mp7 using between 2-3 qts  of oil every 3 weeks with no signs of leaks or soot in exaust. the ccv is clean too. any ideas ? we cahnge  the oil every 450 hrs and all filters air oil and fuel.since day 1 truck has approx 190k now 

Not really ever see any oil consumption issues with the MP engines. Has any major engine work ever been done  to the engine? Have you changed to a different oil weight or brand lately? Mack is pretty specific on their oil rating . EOS-4.5/CK-4 is the recommendation rating . The MP7’s did have some CCV issues that blowed oil out and also low oil pressure warnings when in hot conditions but all that was fixed years ago. https://www.macktrucks.com/-/media/files/body-builder/manuals/heavy-duty/2022/mack-section-1--oil-and-filter.pdf?rev=3fe5689395524824988bae78e9d93183&hash=4A654651964E2CF482A1F80AB207CF46

I assume it’s a VMAC 2 electronic pump. Did you use the A/B timing light to time and install the pump? Some pumps time on #1 and some time on number 6 .  There is a rack rod adjustment that can be done but the pump shop should have done that . 

Are you sure it’s a GU and not a GR? Big difference in wiring .