Mackpro

59 minutes ago, mdixon said:

You'd think soot level would drop to zero after a successful regen, I only blew it out with shop air. Definitely not a real cleaning lol. Damn thing looked great too, no melts, missing squares. Doc wasn't sooted up either. Visible inlet, no cracks or evidence of overheating.

Sometimes you just never get them to zero . I’ve done good hot regens and only got them into the low 30%. Trick is how much they rise after a few hours of driving. Sometimes the soot level will jump up a lot in the first 15-20 miles of driving and then a super slow crawl  rise . I’ve left the shop at 20-25% soot and in 15 miles it jumped to 45%  and was normal. Now after my 40 mile test drive if I was above 65-70%  ( and I’ve hit 100 +% in 20 miles before) I would pull the filter and have it cleaned and check turbo, EGR system and boost leaks . 

One of our 2013 CXU’s de-rated and lost the speedo ( dashes in the screen) , lightning bolt on , ABS /ATC light on. Had active codes for both front wheel speed sensors . Tested and both bad.  Replaced both sensors and the tone wheel on one hub. Cleared codes and did 15 mile test drive . All ok. This was a manual trans truck. I know the M-drive trucks will derate on certain ABS codes but was unsure on manual transmission trucks till today. 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148618-9999.pdf   We we’re on the verge of changing some EGR coolers that looked clean but had fault codes for clogged/low flow . We changed the temp sensor and harness ends and this solved several problems 

9 minutes ago, mdixon said:

I'm hitting temps in 10 minutes, dpf dp is .490 max. I inspected the dpf and doc, blew them down and and replaced all the clamps and gaskets 2 weeks ago. Mine went the other way, egr valve first. Came back with same code, replaced the egr venturi with the plastic 1 piece and a new sensor, and the temp sensor because the wiring had chuffed bare. 

 

Is there a software update when replacing the venturi? I can check software lvl tomorrow, I'm pretty sure it's been updated within a year.

Not many software updates come out for the older trucks so if you had it updated within the last year it’s probably has the newest software in it. If you had Tech Tool  you could do a “learned data reset “  so the ECM could learn the new sensors.  Also re-set the “ Adaptive Factor “ for the 7th injector when they are replaced or cleaned . 

6 minutes ago, mdixon said:

I'm hitting temps in 10 minutes, dpf dp is .490 max. I inspected the dpf and doc, blew them down and and replaced all the clamps and gaskets 2 weeks ago. Mine went the other way, egr valve first. Came back with same code, replaced the egr venturi with the plastic 1 piece and a new sensor, and the temp sensor because the wiring had chuffed bare. 

 

Is there a software update when replacing the venturi? I can check software lvl tomorrow, I'm pretty sure it's been updated within a year.

That all sounds good actually.  Good that you got the new EGR sensor on there. What’s your spot level dropping to? 

2 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Oh flow tester lol

Lol , your right .  I corrected it . 

If your having EGR temp sensor readings that are erratic. I believe there is a service bulletin on the pins in the harness causing faults. I’ll see if I can find it . 

I just went down this same road with a 2012 Volvo D13 last week. Started with EGR flow codes. Updated to the newest EGR differential sensor and venturie pipe. It’s a kit that comes with everything you need. After doing this the EGR codes went away but the failed EGR diff sensor caused EGR valve to stay open more than it should and caused over sooting of the DPF filter. So I started a regen and couldn’t get the center T2 DPF temp over 750. Borrowed a flow  tester and 7th injector had really low flow . Started at 2 LPM ( liter per minute) flow , cleaned and re-tested and had 3 LPM . Spec is 4-8 LPM at 30psi . So replace the 7th injector ( no fun on the big ones, a super thin 7/8” wrench is a must) . Started a regen and temps slowly and I mean super slowly got to 880 after about 25 minutes. The DPF differential pressure was around  .8psi  and slowly dropping to about .5 psi at end of regen. Usually the regen temps shoot up pretty quickly on the T2 when the fuel starts dosing. To make it right I finally had to pull the filter and have it cleaned and went ahead and had the top part ( catalyst) cleaned too. After that the temps rose quickly and my DPF differential pressure only got to .3 psi at it’s highest. 

Can you view the DPF differential pressure during regen? 

1 minute ago, mdixon said:

All that is brandy new. I cleaned the air lines back the frame manifold, and replaced the steel one behind the head. Regulator and solenoid work and makes 30# when commaded on, no air leaks. New 2 way check tee on the 7th injector. Brand new filter dryer cartridge and valve. I do all that whenever I find debris in the tee screen. 

Oh . So you have the early big 7th injector with the coolant lines ? 

For AHI stuck closed or stuck open fault code . We would start with flow testing the 7th injector and replace it if not in specs. Hardly anyone outside of dealers have the flow testing kit  so replacement is the normal routine. Remember there are 3 and now possibly 4 different 7th injectors on Mack’s /Volvo engines now. Testing the air to the AHI as I mentioned above and replacement of the air drier filter are  must . The air pressure regulator for the AHI is usually mounted on the bracket the air drier is on . 

Put a 1/4” air line Tee in the air line going to the AHI . Hook a good air pressure gauge to the Tee . Start regen and during regen it should be right at around 31-33 psi. This is very important. Not changing the air dryer filter causes the regulator to the AHI to fail and cause failed regens. 

https://www.macktrucks.com/-/media/files/body-builder/manuals/heavy-duty/2022/mack-section-1--oil-and-filter.pdf?rev=3fe5689395524824988bae78e9d93183&hash=4A654651964E2CF482A1F80AB207CF46     Link to Mack website that list oil weights for manual trans and  carriers 

Also , there is a fuse box for the sleeper it’s self. Should be under the bed somewhere. 

12 minutes ago, 2014pinnacle said:

And this will cause the bunk heater not to work as well?

No. Different circuits I believe.  The newer sleeper trucks a a bunk  fan switch also on the dash . Make sure it’s on  

The cab blower motors are a known issue to go out . The HVAC control pane on the dash is another problem area. Mainly due to people not changing their cabin air filter. A clogged/dirty filter causes the motor to over heat and also melts the back of the HVAC panel. Also melts the dash harness connector. 

If they are both T-310 and not a 310M or another variant of the T-310. The only difference I can think of is one having a oil pump for a trans cooler and one not having the pump.  Just a guess 

I sent you an email . After looking at the wiring diagram it doesn’t show the power and relay . The Mack/Volvo diagrams are horrible as they don’t show the complete circuit on one page. I’ll do some more looking 

1 hour ago, Mario G said:

Ok, thanks for the input!

Message me your email and I can send you the bulletin and troubleshooting 

The new interior  GR, AN and PI’s use a door control panel that is actually a ECM . You can actually flash out a fault code on the control panel . Quality was horrible on the first couple of years and I believe Mack changed supplier and quality improved. On one of our Anthem’s we changed the drivers side DCP 3 times . Lucky we have the extended chassis warranty on all our trucks. 

Hope someone in here has a answer from you . I myself am looking at a 1967 Chevy  C50 my buddy has for sale. Going to use it to haul boat, camper or boat short distances. 

As Joey said screwing them out let’s the steering gear turn farther. There is one on top and one on the bottom. Depending on the location of the sector shaft determines which poppet screw does either right or left turn . If you back them out to far they will fly out due to the pressure. They have O-rings on the ends to keep them from leaking. Most newer boxes have AUTO  casted on the housing and are auto setting poppets . If it’s a Sheppard box , all the manuals are on R H Sheppard website 

I wish other manufacturers would follow Eaton Fuller and have free access to all their manuals and bulletins. Sheppard steering gear is another good company with free manuals and a good technical hot line.  TRW steering gear company also had manuals online however its been many years since I’ve checked to see if it’s still free. Bendix has a good website and Meritor/WABCO air drier did too last time I checked. . 

The wire usually falls back behind the batteries and is forgotten. Used to see this a lot at the dealership when batteries were replaced or tested 

The power wire to the ACM was left off  the batteries .  This powers the ACM , def pump and level sensor . It’s a smaller wire with a in line fuse