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Big Dog
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Posts posted by steeler

  1. Problem solved, I think. Ended up unplugging the boost sensor and it went ahead and did it's thing. Plugged it back in and its working perfect now. The boost reading was a little wacky, but now it's fine. Must've had a bad connection there. Thanks Turckster.

  2. Hey guys I'm getting a drv solenoid fault when I try a service regen. It will throw the code after only about 5 seconds after it starts the regen.

    It has a new drv solenoid and air line. I've removed the valve by the turbo and it functions perfect with the test on vcads.

    The fault is 128 ppid330 fmi7.

    Can anyone give me a suggestion?


  3. Hey guys I've got an mp7 that was towed into my shop from afar with a loose idler gear that has done the usual chewing up of the flywheel housing. The shop that it came from told the customer there was so much metal in the engine that the engine had to be replaced.

    My question is, at what point would that be need necessary? I've done one of these before but I haven't heard of anybody replacing the engine for this problem.

  4. I've had a bazillion trucks with the 8-9, never had one with it active yet. Is it active? If not, I would ignore it and go after the 6. I was thinking that with an active 8-9 the engine will not run, but not certain about that here sitting at home and not at the shop.

    As far as the 6, check the wires close to the unit pump for bare spots. Could also be a failed pump.


  5. Hate to drag up an old thread but this was a first for me. After changing out the VEB solenoid on an mp7 the other day, had the same start then die issue. After reading this thread I swapped the old solenoid back in and she runs fine.

    So apparently bad VEB's right out of the box appears common.

  6. I have a feeling nobody has had this issue before but I`m working on a vmac3 LE garbage truck with dual operating positions.

    The truck just got back from transmission shop for new Allison. Now when you switch the operating position switch, the trans pad will switch from left to right and back, but the throttle stays left. it wont work on the left side at all. I`m not sure how the switch is tied into the electronics and I have no diagram.

    The Trans shop says its not on them, they didn't have anything to do with it.

    No fault codes.

    Anybody got anything?

  7. You need to install 3 .025 shims under the rocker stands of the rear head.

    Common issue with a re man head. I can't think of the part number off the top of my head, but your dealer should have them in stock.

    Reason for this is that your head was machined and now the valves are sitting higher. Shimming up the rocker will eliminate any engine brake clearance issues.

  8. Did your clutch lock in with the shop air applied or unlock? 

    Make sure the new solenoid you installed is the correct part, if not it could work backwards from what it is supposed to do.

    IF it's the typical Horton (air unlocks it) the ecu will send a ground to the fan solenoid to apply air and unlock it. The solenoid would have constant 12v with the ecu using ground for control.


  9. Fuel pressure should be somewhere in the 60-75 lb range. Testing under load would be ideal, but often you'll see it near zero at idle when the gear is slipping on the shaft.

    If it's a restriction in the fuel system pressure might be good until you get it under strain.

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