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steeler

Big Dog
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Posts posted by steeler


  1. Depends what type of fan drive you have. I would say you probably have a Horton that locks the fan when there is no air to it. If I have one that isn't kicking in properly for me the easiest way to test the fan itself is to remove the air line that goes to the fan drive. That will lock it in and you shouldn't be able to spin the fan.

    If it's a fan drive that locks on with air pressure to it, then I take the air line off and shoot air to the fan manually and see if it locks.

    I would suspect the fan drive is probably the culprit.


  2. I'll tell you why they won't do anything other than a reman. For one, they don't like the idea of someone "bringing in their own steak" to have them cook it for you. They get no profit in parts that way, just labor.

    2nd, and I'm speaking from experience here is that there is almost always (for my shop anyway) issues with this or that being different/not working with your application. It can become a huge pain in the rear, especially after they give you a quote and end up 20 hrs over what they told you it would cost.

    Our shop went through it not long ago with an mp7. Tried to install engine only to find out there are a zillion different flywheel housings for the mp. And the one on the original engine was no good.

    We won't do it anymore, only Mack remans. Every time we install a customer supplied used engine we lose our butts.

    • Like 1

  3. Hmm. Strange. I was looking up info on a service bulletin and was one click away from ordering impact. Maybe they changed something Idk. 

    Our shop is a "service partner" for Mack. Our dealer isn't helpful with it. We mentioned getting impact thru them but he keeps saying we don't really need it. Wrong. We need it badly. You would think us spending 30k a month in parts with them that they would be a little more helpful.


  4. Our shop has a tool to cap off one side of the cooler and put pressure on the other, but you can idle the engine up to around 1500 and spray around it with soapy water and detect leaks. Do that at hose connections, intake manifold gaskets, everywhere. And don't forget the air compressor intake hoses and pipe, they are boosted as well.


  5. Problem solved, I think. Ended up unplugging the boost sensor and it went ahead and did it's thing. Plugged it back in and its working perfect now. The boost reading was a little wacky, but now it's fine. Must've had a bad connection there. Thanks Turckster.


  6. Hey guys I'm getting a drv solenoid fault when I try a service regen. It will throw the code after only about 5 seconds after it starts the regen.

    It has a new drv solenoid and air line. I've removed the valve by the turbo and it functions perfect with the test on vcads.

    The fault is 128 ppid330 fmi7.

    Can anyone give me a suggestion?

     


  7. Hey guys I've got an mp7 that was towed into my shop from afar with a loose idler gear that has done the usual chewing up of the flywheel housing. The shop that it came from told the customer there was so much metal in the engine that the engine had to be replaced.

    My question is, at what point would that be need necessary? I've done one of these before but I haven't heard of anybody replacing the engine for this problem.


  8. I've had a bazillion trucks with the 8-9, never had one with it active yet. Is it active? If not, I would ignore it and go after the 6. I was thinking that with an active 8-9 the engine will not run, but not certain about that here sitting at home and not at the shop.

    As far as the 6, check the wires close to the unit pump for bare spots. Could also be a failed pump.

     


  9. Hate to drag up an old thread but this was a first for me. After changing out the VEB solenoid on an mp7 the other day, had the same start then die issue. After reading this thread I swapped the old solenoid back in and she runs fine.

    So apparently bad VEB's right out of the box appears common.


  10. I have a feeling nobody has had this issue before but I`m working on a vmac3 LE garbage truck with dual operating positions.

    The truck just got back from transmission shop for new Allison. Now when you switch the operating position switch, the trans pad will switch from left to right and back, but the throttle stays left. it wont work on the left side at all. I`m not sure how the switch is tied into the electronics and I have no diagram.

    The Trans shop says its not on them, they didn't have anything to do with it.

    No fault codes.

    Anybody got anything?

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