steeler

Has anybody cleaned out, or know where the dang A/C drain is on an LR? I can't find it anywhere under the evaporator where you would think it would be.

There is a channeled little brace directly under the cab below the evap core, but if it drains into it there is no way to unclog it.

I hate to pull the core out just to clean to mud from the drain.

On 5/28/2020 at 10:37 AM, chana1634 said:

i have a problem like this my question i used a flywhell that was in 1996 and my truck is 1999, i check and all look the same, could be that is different on the flywheel, i did notice that sensor was unhook before i remove housing, olso did remove sensor, and check magnet on tip and was good, what could i did wrong,

Recheck that flywheel. I don't think a 96 flywheel will work on a 99 etech engine. Seen it several times.

13 minutes ago, fjh said:

We’re the hold downs the up dated hold downs they are taller that was the half hearted fix before the stainless cups

I don't think there was an update for the d12. The hold downs for them look different than the ones on the mp. But even on the mp engines, I don't ever recall seeing grooves in the head where they seat. Something just looks off to me. 

Hi all. 4,000 miles ago I did injector cups on a d12d, everything had been great till now. Now it's got dying and hard starts again just like last time.

Just pulled the injectors out and noticed 4 of the injector washers stayed in the head. On those 4, down in the cup just above the washer, it looks black, like possible leakage. The 2 that the washers came out with the injector are clean and shiny. No traces of soot on the injectors themselves though.

My question is, where the injector hold down rests against the head, it appears that maybe there had been movement at one time causing wear on the head. Maybe a couple thousands. I've never noticed this before, and have done a boatload of cups. Could that be my problem? Alli of the hold down bolts were tight by the way.

On 1/10/2020 at 10:49 AM, fjh said:

 This resonant ride condition was a bit of an issue on the v8 with the ambac pump as well! The fix was a light spring om the right side rack acted as a damper for this condition ! I have never run into it on any Vmac Pumps entirly possible thou!

Yup, I never saw it on a Vmac pump either, just the mechanical. Fortunately I haven't messed with many E9's..the ones I did, seemed to be a pain to work on but that could just be my lack of time with them.

Thanks for the tips guys but I got it out! Luckily the customer wasn't in a hurry so I waited for my snap on guy to see what he had for stud removers. He had a Blue Point set that incremented in .25 millimeters, and they are very thin walled. I was able to get one in there and remove the tool bit, then removed the broken cup nipple the normal way, luckily without it falling into the cylinder.

Huge victory! 

Yes it did break the tip of the cup, I figured that would happen. I would feel a little better if I could come up with a way to get the piece of broken tool out of that tip, but it isn't looking good. Im not sure I would have much luck blowing that piece out thru an exhaust port since it's a pretty heavy chunk. Damnit!!

I'm.pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I've got D12 with copper cups, the extractor bit broke off on the cup. Has anybody successfully removed a copper cup with the conical cup puller? That's the only way I can see myself having any chance of getting it out without pulling the head.

This sucks! Pulled 3 of them with no problem, other than they were extra tight it seemed. I don't know why but the bit just snapped off!

If I were getting a harness I would go new. I'm not sure you could find a good one from a scrap yard, those seem to get chopped when they remove other components. 

3 hours ago, ToolsMachines said:

I check the lighting bolt and it didn’t come on 

Didn't come on at key on? If that's the case change the bulb and get the blink code off the dash.

1 hour ago, Truecountry said:

zero compression on number one 

I had a feeling. Looks like you are pulling heads.

I can get that in the morning for ya.

Your 2511 code is for the output speed sensor on the rear of the transmission. 

I was thinking it was fuse 30 or 31, but I'm digging WAY back in the memory bank. I use to pull those fuses while cranking to check compression.

4 hours ago, Truecountry said:

I just read this 

These ASET engines are really bad an having bad harnesses because of how they lie so close to that exhaust manifold. The shield can only hold back so much heat. I wouldn't be surprised if you remove the shield, use an air gun to blow all the junk that built up there, and lift the harness it will be sticking to the galley that the harness rests in. If so, expect the possibility of a bad harness

Any way to test that ? voltage ?

You would normally see a fault code if you have broken or shorted eup wires. I've seen a few have chafed wiring where you describe, but all had faults. Those harnesses are actually pretty solid, much more so than the MP engines for sure!

This is smelling more and more of a valve train issue.

3 hours ago, Truecountry said:

I pulled the pump once that's is ..but couldn't get cup out and I also felt a slot cut in cup oblong which way does that go up or down 

That slot faces the passenger side. There is a pin in the block that rides in that slot. If the pin breaks, the roller can turn sideways which will destroy the roller and the camshaft. 

Does it miss when up to temp as well?

So you have replaced the#1 unit pump and injector and still missing in number 1? No fault codes for unit pump? Can you feel the pulse in the injection line in number one?

As far as the rocker, make sure you loosen the 2 rocker stand bolts when you torque the rocker shaft down or it will break the bolts/shaft again.

How about the valve adjustment in number 1? Nothing wacky going on there? I've seen the pins break in the engine brake plunger and cause a miss, but usually it will only miss after the engine brake is activated and a short period thereafter until the oil has time to bleed out.

If you have no electrical issue causing the unit pump to not fire, then you are down to a compression issue. You could always swap the rocker front to rear to eliminate an issue there.

1 hour ago, Mack Technician said:

Same here.

Steeler, your have a real humility that let’s you expose even your worst slip up. That’s huge. I’m still working on it. Someday I’ll tell you what happens if you forget to remove a camshaft installation shoe, but I’m currently still in denial. 

Lol!! Hey I'm confident enough in my abilities that I can admit when I screw up. It happens to all of us. I try not to let it happen often, but occasionally it will. The trick is getting the best outcome and not costing the company too much money lol.

I have a pretty good idea in my head of what that cam tool looked like afterwards!

2 hours ago, fjh said:

Bit of an Eye opener for me Never see that Happen!

And I felt stupid after the first one. I've seen 3, 2 of them were Le's and the other a CV. I work at a rather small shop too. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket!

32 minutes ago, fjh said:

Thanx For posting your fix Bro!

Always! Been working on Macks for 26 years and always come here for tips. If I can save someone else a headache that I went thru fixing something all the better.

Gray engines with Bendix compressor. All 3 I've seen have had a hole from where they had ingested something. The first one got me good, I had tried everything to fix it, was a high mileage engine so I inframed it before I found the issue lol. That was a little tricky trying to explain to the customer why he needed a new compressor.

Edit...I should add that the hole I found in the piston was on the first one. I didn't bother with pulling the compressor head on the other 2 because I knew what was going on after my first experience 

On 2/8/2020 at 10:35 PM, Bob123 said:

Having this same problem.  Did you ever find out what was going on?

Another thing to check is the air compressor. I've seen 3 of these with a hole in one of the air compressor pistons. Everything appears great till you put load on the engine and your boost pressure dumps thru the hole right into the crank case. Easy way to tell us to blow shop air into the compressor intake, with the oil fill cap removed and feel for air blowing out.

I changed number 1 and 2 injectors and cups. That appears to have fixed it!

I believe 2214 is saying the transmission isn't reading engine speed? Do you have any engine faults? Electronic malfunction light on dash lit up?